Unofficial Anycubic Group

Hello,

here are some information for standard questions. It will be expand over Time please don´t post here send me DM.

Here are some nice Sites about Kobra 2 Series (Chart below) you will got a good insight if you need deeper informations. Thanks to 1coderookie (github)/ u/Catnippr (reddit)

Actual discussion Group in Klipper Board about integration of Klipper to PRO/PLUS/MAX:

https://klipper.discourse.group/t/printer-cfg-for-anycubic-kobra-2-plus-pro-max/11658

If you need to Switch back to Stock or Older Firmware it`s no Problem.(see attached Links in the Chart below)

FAQ begin:

Q: Is there Klipper available for these Printers?

A: Some Yes and some No, the community on Klipper board is very active and i think we will got these Function in the near Future.

Q: Why theres no Klipper for PRO/PLUS/MAX?

A: The Motherboard is a new generation of Trigorilla Board (Trigorilla_Spe_A_V1.0.0) These didn´t have a normal MCU like STM32Fxx or GD32Fxx. They put on an Allwinner Arm CPU (R582-S3) This CPU controls the whole Printer. So it must be reverse engeneered before they can compile a Klipper Version for these Printers.

Q: I got error Messages "Hotend/Hotbed NTC abnormal please check it an wiring/ Please Restart"

A:

1- When you have NTC errors Like "NTC Heatbed or Nozzle abnormal. Check first if wiring is correct. Now check with a multimeter in Ohm´s Mode if the Values are like the Values in the Chart.

2- Sometimes after many times the Hotend gets Hot and Cold it can be that the NTC probe got a little bit loose. Check if the Screw is tight and the NTC is not loose.

Q: How can i configure or Modify my Printer.cfg?

A:

Here are 2 Links for Firmware modification. https://1coderookie.github.io/Kobra2ProInsights/firmware/fw_kobraOS/ https://github.com/ultimateshadsform/Anycubic-Kobra-2-Series-Tools

If you had Problems and found a solution please DM me. And if you like it give it a Upvote. THX

I recently bought my first 3D printer, an Anycubic Kobra Max. I heard that prusa slicer is the easiest 3D slicer so I downloaded it. However, when I wanted to add the printer I found out that it`s not in the list of Anycubic printers so I dont know how to add it to Prusa. Does anybody know how can I add it?

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Hi, I got my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro like a week ago. The printer worked perfectly, really, for like 800g of filament I had nothing but good results. But after that I was starting to get results like this. Internet said it's a z-offset issue, but I tried around and re-calibrated multiple times, and I was still getting adhesion issues.

Any idea how to fix this? I didn't play around with the settings...the problem came out of nowhere. So far I: Changed the filaemnt, cleaned the nozzle, calibrated the nozzle using auto calibration. Tried to adjust z-offset while printing. And right now I am doing a system restore but idk if it will change anything...

Edit: It works on stable mode. I can return the printer until 16.5 (bought from amazon), do you think I should? It's my first printer and I won't really afford buying another one in the next like, 3 years

i couldn't find anything to fix this problem. I've been using cura with eh- results since I've had my kobra go and a friend recommended i try the anycubic slicer or orcaslicer.

the orcaslicer gives me constant y layer shifts so i went to the anycubic slicer and that one just doesn't let me print as the y homing at the start fails after my bed makes a loud grinding noise. thing is i can do entire prints without that issue if i use cura, i can do auto levelling, moving my y axis and everything without having this issue, it only appears if i try to print a gcode that was sliced with the anycubic slicer. I've tightened my belts with a dozen different tutorials but the result is always the same. any idea what's causing this?

We have a Kobra Max here at the office and it has developed a couple of weird quirks.

Issue 1

If you go into the menu and tell the printer to run a levelling check......it puts up that screen that says to touch something metal to the hot end to begin the process. Nothing EVER happens. This used to work.

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Issue 2:

When printing, the extruder grabs filament JUST FINE. But if you try to tell the printer to either FILAMENT IN or FILAMENT OUT when doing a filament change, the extruder does not engage and pull filament in or out.

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I'm so confused.

Hello 3d printer friends,

shortly before christmas, I bought an Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro, and started printing with PLA, without major issues. Now my brother has asked me if I could print him some pieces for an antenna holder (for an electric lawn mover). He designed the pieces, and the prototypes in PLA looked promising. But since the antenna will be outdoors, we decided that PLA won't be a good idea as it is not UV-resistant. After some research we chose "ERYONE ASA" filament.

ASA has so far proven a challenge, as it warps massively. Using a skirt or a small brim, most items were pushed off the printing bed quickly. So far I was only successfull using a raft.

I now tried to print one of the actual pieces, and the print started ok. But after the raft was finished, the edges (especially the forward left corner) started warping more and more. The print finished successfully, but the base of the piece is noticably compressed.

I have a feeling that this might be an bed-adhesion issue. What can I do to improve the bed adhesion or keep the raft from warping that massively? I don't have an printer enclosure to keep the temperature constant. And I do have a glue stick, but wanted to get some opinions first, as I'm hesitant to potentially ruin the plate with glue.

Any ideas and suggestions are appreciated.

Printer: Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro
Bed: regular PEI spring steel
Filament: ERYONE ASA, 1,75mm
Printing speed: 50mm
Printing temperature: 240° C / 464° F
Bed temperatur: 90° C

Enclosed printing space: NO

Warped, left corner. All other corners warp too, but not as heavy.

Compaction of the printed layers

Hi guys so im using anycubic kobra pro and i want to print a 1mm thickness cylinder, what setting do you recoment ( im using a trasparent fillament petg)

So i got a new photon mono 2 as my first printer and haven’t been able to print anything cuz the prints keep sticking to the tank. What could be the problem and what could i do to fix this issue?

how can you tighten the belt on the z axis, in kobra 2 max?

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I'm using PLA Anycubic High speed Filament. This just started happening when I changed filament. It seems to mainly do this on the x axis. The instructions for the filament say to print it at "180-210℃ 50-150mm/s", "210-230℃ 150-300mm/s", "230-260℃ 300-600mm/s". I tried printing the filament at each speed except for 600mm/s, and at the correct temperature, and it still came out rough like this. I also tried adjusting the z offset and re-autoleveling. It wasn't doing this the last time I printed something, but I was also using different PLA filament. Should I try replacing the nozzle at this point? Any suggestions are appreciated, thanks in advance. :)

Hello, my sock for my Anycubic kobra go needs a Replacement, as well as Nozzles, what type of Hotend is this even ? i cant find any information regarding this on The ANycubic website, please someone help

I've printed several items in PETG over the past few months, using 240c on the hotend and 80c bed temp. Just yesterday I printed with PLA+ for the first time in probably a year, using 210/60 temps. That piece printed fine. Today I'm doing another PLA+ piece, and it's showing "Hotend over" on the display during the print. I didn't notice that yesterday. The print did stop before finishing the outer 2 skirt lines, and made a little blob at one corner. I had to reset the machine to home and start over, but now it seems to be printing okay.

I also notice that despite having Ultimaker Cura slicer set to 210/60, the printer display is reporting 215 for the hotend temp, and 60 for the bed. Not sure if that's an issue there.

*edit* the second attempt failed about halfway through the first layer. 3rd attempt again failed on the skirt. Each time it stops printing, the red light underneath the bed is flashing quickly. This last time the display also showed "bed temp over".

I tried another small 30-minute print and it worked fine. Just can't seem to get this large ~11-inch square print going.

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I was having some problems with my printer so I decided to make it direct drive. This was a pretty easy install just kind of tedious. This was a video i used as a guide.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUmrwQTE7tY&ab_channel=JeDoVi3D

I printed this direct drive mount by Troy :

https://www.printables.com/model/613849-anycubic-kobra-max-direct-drive-oem

I had to buy m3 screws and nuts.

I also had to get an extended extruder cable (DISCLAIMER: YOU HAVE TO SWITCH AROUND THE WIRES TO WORK WITH THE EXTRUDER):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QHTG82K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used the rest of the bowden tude that I didn't cut for to use for the direct drive extruder. With this feed tube bracker to guide the filment to filament senor:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5748329

Also you are gonna need extra extruder fittings for the brackets (also they are nice to have around):

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NANKRTD

I am going to get new bowden tube to replace the stock one cause it is a little too short:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09GM6W972/

Oh and you will need to calibrate the extrude so it doesn't over extrude (this is a great video):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfBOijl0Kd0&ab_channel=3DJake

Please tell me! How long should the PTFE tube be on the Anycubic kobra 2 plus 3d printer