Any idea what is going on here?

[Image]

Hi, I got my Anycubic Kobra 2 Pro like a week ago. The printer worked perfectly, really, for like 800g of filament I had nothing but good results. But after that I was starting to get results like this. Internet said it's a z-offset issue, but I tried around and re-calibrated multiple times, and I was still getting adhesion issues.

Any idea how to fix this? I didn't play around with the settings...the problem came out of nowhere. So far I: Changed the filaemnt, cleaned the nozzle, calibrated the nozzle using auto calibration. Tried to adjust z-offset while printing. And right now I am doing a system restore but idk if it will change anything...

Edit: It works on stable mode. I can return the printer until 16.5 (bought from amazon), do you think I should? It's my first printer and I won't really afford buying another one in the next like, 3 years

in anycubicby HasanAjami

81%

10d

SparklesandNoodles

10d

Slow it down. I probably had a few weeks of running it above the 200 mm/s mark but after that started having tons of failures - even on the test models (i print a bottle openner for every new spool). Most prints I run now are running at 150mm/s or lower unless I see all is going aces. Then I'll kick it up to 'sport'. Generally I've had a really great run with my K2Plus...so many hours, so many meters of many types of filament, so many more sucessful prints than failures....but I did have to lower the speed to make it all happen.

HasanAjami

10d

Setting the printer to "stable" did make a good print. I essentially don't care if my print takes an hour or a day, as long as I get the result I want. But it is still sad to see something new not working properly anymore.

Thank you for the answer.

UnderstandingProof41

Clean da build plate with dish shoap and water

HasanAjami

10d

So far this worked perfectly. I run the first levels on stable speed and then switch it up to standard speed.

I still have no clue why this started to happen, my guess first guess is that the nozzle wore off, or the bed.

SparklesandNoodles

10d

Yep. This is my process some of the time too. Since our basement is colder I typically use a raft on everything (unitl I have the enclosure built), and for whatever reason at least the last say dozen or so prints have not needed the stable/Standard swap. I'm sure once I auto level or swap out the nozzle I'll have to tune it in again but I'm happy as long as I know what to expect.

Lazzaret

10d

I had similar issues with my K2P. You might have something too loose. Check this video from Anycubic might help: https://youtu.be/zF102Zceeok?si=mZU5XDr26ffu1FqX

Make sure you clean your bed after every time you finished a print with isopropyl alcohol.

Other than that, as mentioned before, slow down the print speed.

Hope this helps

HasanAjami

10d

hm thank you for the video I will try that again.

I also suspect that I should take better care of the bed, so far I only broke the prints off and used a brush. I will try using stick glue for adhesion too (as I read on other posts)

Thank you for the answer :)

Moonstomper1978

10d

Normaly you didnt need Stick glue with a pei Sheet. Just Clean the bed with soap or iso.

You should do this after every Print.

Lazzaret

10d

Totally agree, in my 7 years of 3d printing never used glue stick or anything else. Just keep it clean all the time.

ImpossiblePilot3291

10d

Slow it down, fan low or off for first level at least.

HasanAjami

10d

Hello I see you on other posts too :) Thank you for the answer!

I will make sure of that, any idea why this wasn't an issue before?

ImpossiblePilot3291

10d

This is what I know - I can do a perfect Benchy right out of the box at top speed. But that is in the center of the bed where all the heat is centered. Flat prints loose heat faster, and the more vertical prints hold heat. The fan is very strong, more so than the Ender 3 fan. It really cools the filament fast, a little too fast. Slowing it down (50%) seems to be a sweet spot for it and getting smooth, flowing prints. Brands of filament can be a bit of a factor, too. Hope this helps.

OldNKrusty

10d

Irrespective as to what speeds you're going to print at I would highly advise printing the first layer SLOWLY. Like 20mms. Once the first layer is down and good you can ramp things up but the first layer is something that should never be rushed. From the pic it does also appear that the Z offset is a tad too high. Try lowering by a single increment and try again. But for first layers slow is your friend.

GoodGuyDhil

10d

I hate this printer. Have had nothing but issues with it for the 3 weeks I’ve owned it.

My Z offset is always changing. When I first got it, calibrated, Z offset was at -1.7. First layer would not stick on stable mode unless my Z was set this low.

It grinded down my nozzles like hell. Been through 2 already since I’ve owned it. Prints are getting worse and worse. Their support is sending me another extruder, but is that going to fix anything?

Ok_Statistician_9451

10d

This happened to me as well , but offset changed maybe 3 times from December to February for me. After couple updates it hasn't happened again and have had no issues sincr

HasanAjami

10d

Would you say I should return it while I can? It's common for Chinese products to not be durable. I am a bit attached to this one since it's my first printer. It's best seller on Amazon and many people have great time with it. I don't mind spending sweat and blood to get it working, it's part of the fun, as long as it really can get working.

Ok_Statistician_9451

10d

Has it been updated recently. I have has some z offset issues when 1st getting mine but after updating I haven't had any issues in months. Also make sure everything is tightened pretty good

OldNKrusty

10d

Z offset will change any time you run an autolevel and you really shouldn't need to run an autolevel very often. When you do I always advise pre-heating the bed to whatever temp you will print at (ie 60°) and let it heatsoak at that temp for 30 minutes to allow the bed to fully expand and stabilize. Then run the autolevel. Make a note of what the Z offset is and begin your print. Watch the first layer and adjust your offset as needed until it's just right and then make a note of that number and write it down in case you need to manually input it again. But unless you change something the offset shouldn't change. One thing I have noticed a few people experience is the heatbreak not fully seated and tight in the heatsink. So as they print the heatbreak literally moves up and down a fraction of a mm causing offset to change. Make sure the grub screws that secure the heatbreak are tight. Also, if you change your nozzles your offset will now be different, On my kobra 2 the offset calibration button was set slightly too low. It took me a bit of fiddling to get it perfectly flush with the surface of the bed but once I did my offset is bang on when I run an autolevel (which is rare).

Nico_wdgjazz

10d

Is the Z offset good ? I printed a spool of white pla from polymaker. And that thing shreded my nozzle to death. White pigment is done with titanium… I had to re do my z offset every 500g of that thing because the noozle had shortened…. Only by printing White.