Alpinism: A Higher Calling

r/alpinism80.3K subscribers8 active
Bomb Proof 4 Season Tents

In the market for a bomb-proof 4 season tent.

How might the Hilleburg Allak 3 or Nammatj 3 GT compare to the the North Face VE 25?

https://thenorthface.com.au/product/ve-25-3-person-tent/NF0A52VKC8T.html

Also, do you think Fjallraven will bring back the Polar Endurance 3 – and, if so, how might they compare to the aforementioned tents above in terms of long-term weathering?

https://www.fjallraven.com/uk/en-gb/bags-gear/tents-sleeping-bags/tents/polar-endurance-3/

Or, are they largely a much of a muchness, as one might say?

Liberty Ridge - June 1

Planning to climb Liberty Ridge on June 1 and I have two questions.

Currently, the road to white river cg is closed. I haven't been able to get a ranger on the phone. One recording said the climbing offices will be open on May 24. Does anyone know if I can expect the road (410) to open in the next two weeks? Or any advice on how to get a climbing ranger on the phone? I had no problem getting a permit in mid May two years ago.

Second, I'm assuming horizontal front points are sufficient for this route. Does anyone recommend otherwise?

Thanks

K2 currently

Hello !

I need a piece of advice. Where can i find news, data etc. on current K2 attempts ?

I´m ( also ) searching for pics in the middle section.

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Harnesses: One Belay Loop vs. Two Tie-In Loops?

I am searching for a ultralight harness for via ferratas as well as classic mountaineering purposes (no wall climbing). Maybe some glacier trips in future, but no ski mountaineering. I would like to go as light as possible, so padding is not necessary.

I found several lightweight harnesses, e.g. Blue Ice Choucas (Pro), Camp Alp Race/Alp CR or Edelrid Loopo Air.

What is the practical difference between a harness with a belay loop vs. a harness with two tie-in loops?

Does the latter have disadvantages with regards to abrasion or longetivity? I often see that ultralight ski mountainering harnesses do only have those tie-in loops instead of one belay loop. Is this suitable for classic mountaineering nevertheless?

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Opinion on Category C boots for summer alpine climbing

Hi all,

So next summer I’m going climbing again in the alps, done it earlier but still no expert in climbing boots. So last two summers I rented cat C boots for my climbing of some (easier) 4000m peaks. I want to invest in my own cat C boots, but was wondering was I just really lucky with the weather or would Category C boots be good enough nowadays for summer alpine climbing? What are your guys opinion on this?

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Lincoln Peak - X Couloir Video
Lincoln Peak - X Couloir Video

A video trip report of our climb on Lincoln Peak last weekend. Sorry for the spam. We had limited time to get this video turned around and published: https://youtu.be/gIUHTuQl2xU?si=bkHcUFOzOwRMHfGB

Enjoy, and as always, let me know what you think!

SW Face of Lincoln Peak

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Road to Mont Blanc?

I have 0 experience in mountaneering but i have a some experience in hiking steep hills and ever since i was like 7. My goal is to someday climb the Mont Blanc. I understand the need for experience thats why I im planning to go to alpinism courses where i can learn the skills needed like roping and everything else.

My questions are: What are some mountains i should try out first , preferably in switzerland and france as those are the countries closest to me?

Since I dont want to do it with a guide because i always find more reedeming pleasure in doing it alone , how should i prepare for it , should i pick up a cardio routine to prepare for the steep ascent and which one?

What should my cardio goal be , a 10k without being exhausted by the end?

Im open to receiving constructive criticism but please try to abstain from unnecessary insults, im trying to learn and get prepared for a goal i hope ill achieve in the hopefully near future! Thank you!

Photographers, which lenses do you carry during a climb?

Of course you want to keep everything as light as possible so you won't be carrying (most likely) 3 different lenses. On the other hand, sometimes you want to shoot in low light situations, sometimes you want an ultra wide shot and other times you want to zoom in on a cool mountain in the distance. What is your preferred system?

I'm currently looking at the RF-S 18-150mm f/3.5-6.3 or the RF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-6.3 for my canon R50. I don't really see that much of a point for the RF 50mm f/1.8 and I find my current 18-45mm f4.5-6.3 a little lacking.

Training for uphill approaches - point of diminishing returns?

Just wondering what everyone's thoughts are for training for approaches for alpine rock climbs. In the Alps, generally 2 hours is the max approach time for rock climbs, and anything longer most people stay in huts. A common idea is that it's impossible to have too much zone 2 training, but how applicable is this idea in this context? Where days consist of hiking uphill (realistically 90% of routes are 1000m or less elevation gain), then using climbing strength for a number of pitches, then walking down again. What's the point at which spending more time training your aerobic capacity is just a waste of time? (well, with the context of certain goals). Curious for people's takes on this.

Blue Ice Stache 25L opinions wanted

I'm looking for a very lightweight and minimalistic alpinism backpack.
Currently considering the Blue Ice stache and BD Blitz 20, but I cannot find a review of the Stache.

  • The Stache would cost me 30€ more (90 instead of 60, as I can have a pro deal on BD).
  • The straps on the Stache are thinner, thus more breathable but (probably) less comfortable.
  • The Stache is larger by 5L.
  • The Stache is lighter by 50g.

Has anyone used either of these (or a similar pack) ? Any input would be appreciated.
Of course I'm open to considering other options

by Ok-Soil-2995Europe
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Did you lose an ice axe on Mt Hood?

This worked last time, why do I keep finding gear on Hood/Wy'East?

If you lost an ice axe sometime since the last snowstorm, and can send me a dm or chat describing the axe, and distinguishing features, and vaguely what you were doing/where you were on the mtn when you lost it, I can meet you at the MAX stop near where I work and return it to you. (If you're not local, sorry.) No finders fee or anything, just don't make me work to return it.

Meinung zur österreichischen Gesellschaft?

Hallo an alle!

Ich führe aktuell eine internationale Studie zu dem Verhältnis von Jugendlichen und jungen Erwachsenen zu Politik, politischem Aktivismus und dem eigenen Aufwachsen durch.

Es dauert nur 10 min und ihr habt die Chance, einen 25€ Gutschein zu gewinnen!

Ihr könnt teilnehmen wenn ihr zwischen 16 und 25 Jahre alt seid.

Ich würde mich sehr freuen, wenn möglichst viele von euch mitmachen! :)

Ganz lieben Dank!

https://survey.uu.nl/jfe/form/SV_3ODMXOjmdRZnNEG?Q_Language=AUS-GER

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Long Tent Recommendations for Tall people

Does anyone have recommendations for a 2p 4S Alpine tent that is at least 85"(215cm) long? Ideally looking for a freestanding tent, but coming around to a tarp.

My backpacking tent is a BA Copper Spur HV UL 3. And at 90" is just enough so I don't have my toes or head pushing into the walls. (Edit: and on the note, the Copper Spur Expedition 2 is a leading contender, and maybe the MH Outpost 2 if I can find one)

Thanks

Best shoes for Trail and Snow travel?

I’m looking to pick up some hiking shoes with better traction for a San Gorgonio accent this upcoming weekend. I did Cactus 2 Clouds last weekend in some older sneakers and hiked through significant snow to reach the summit. Looking to get some shoes with better tread and a high ankle maybe to keep the snow out. I have a pair of Altra LPs that I could strap some gaiters to, but was wondering if anyone had other suggestions. I’ve heard good things about the Topo trailventure 2 ($100 Amazon). Should I go for something like that or would my LPs with the gaiters cut it? Also looking at the LP mid hikers.

Thoughts on bivvy bags for 2 days expeditions?

Hello,

I'm getting a bit sick of having a heavy ass backpack when doing 2 days expeditions (both winter and summer), so I'm trying to lighten my pack.

Usually, I take too much security gear that I don't use but I don't feel confortable getting rid of it (Escaper, 3 Pitons, small diameter 5m rope, 1 quicklink). By it for goulottes/trad/arêtes, they don't leave my pack.

But for the sleeping gear, my girlfriend and I have a rather heavy but comfortable tent (2.7kg I guess?) and I think we could cut some weight here. The prices of ultra lightweight tents are stupidly high and we are not planning on changing the tent. Moreover, where I'm based, refuges are neither big nor comfortable so we prefer to bring a tent.

Hence, I was looking at the bivvy bags.

But I never tried it, so I don't know if it's usual to have one and sleep in one in alpinism expeditions? And there are so many kinds, for winter expeditions, are an "extreme" one, such as the one from samaya mandatory?

I'm based in Pyrénées mountain range, so the nights are not exceedingly cold but can still be up to - 20/25°c.

Thank you for your insights!

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hiking partner

my friend and I are planning to go to Mount Shasta over the Memorial Day weekend. It is gonna be our first time alpine climbing, so we’d appreciate some guidance from more experienced climbers, especially we are gonna use ice axe, crampons for the first time. we both have done Whitney (99 switch backs) with relative easy (day hike) and we are marathon runners. thanks for reading!

American IFMGA guide seeking students that value mentorship

[Image]

My name is Mark Allen and I run a small shop called the Mountain Bureau based in the North Cascades of Washington State. I also work in Alaska, Peru, Canada, Norway and the Alps. I have come to learn that I really enjoy working with individuals or teams that want to progress in higher level alpinism. I have been a professional guide for 25-years and you can find my bio on my site https://www.mountainbureau.com

I'm currently forming a mentorship program and am gauging interest. I'm gearing up for a big season in the Cascades and then plan to work with several clients in the Alps this summer. If ticking off a peak of your dreams in high on the list, we can do that to. I base out of The North Cascades and Zermatt for the summer and finish on the Dolomites as the Alps get dry late season, then final summer days in the North Cascades.

I get a lot from sharing my craft. I've been climbing for over 35 years in the alpine and want to share this gift with you. Drop me a line. I'm looking forward the connection.

Island/Mera Peak guide recommendation?

I'd like to do the EBC this year, and thinking about maybe climbing one of the "easier" peaks there, Island or Mera. Any guide recommendations please? Past experience is Kilimanjaro.

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