Pretty bad tbh. But still better than walking down. We had everything from melt-freeze crust to slush to avalanche cones to ice...

7um4dr3
OP
4Edited
19dLink

I am seeing a pattern here. Seems like we have a similar taste in routes, Lando. First Geierköpfe then Mayerlrampe.

Yeah conditions are great. I think if you wait two to three days after the next snowfalls it should be good again. Only the NW-ridge was pretty shit. Full of powder.

The ice was better than it looks. I even used a 21cm screw. But I'd advise bringing primarily 13s and a couple of 16s and 10s mixed in.

For general glacier travel you might want to move those front points back. The way you have them set up is more prone to you tripping over them. Once you climb steeper ice you can move them back out.

Don't listen to this guy. Buy some EN/UIAA certified crampons from a reputable brand. You don't want your safety depending on some non-certified junk.

Option A) Mountain guides Option B) Hochtourenkurs through a mountain school or the alpine club and then go by yourself Option C) Read the Alpinlehrplan 3 from the alpine club and start out with smaller hikes and work your way up to higher / more technical peaks. The Alpinlehrplan teaches you the most current best practices in the German speaking alps.

I doubt random people are willing to bring somebody unexperienced that they don't know. For the fastest and easiest option just pay for a guide. B and C take years.

Yeah who would have thought that the Ammergauer have such a great North Face that goes while everything else has gone to shit.

Those were the first routes on that face that I did. I've just been getting into Mixed Climbing this season. Other spots to train for bigger alpine objective that I've done this season are e.g. the routes on the Burgschrofen in Kraspestal (Schall und Rauch & Rumpelstilzchen) and the Bernadeinkopf North Face.

7um4dr3
3Edited
2moLink

Climbed those exact two routes last week. We also climbed Wintergames first and saw that Scotch still had good conditions, so we came back a couple of days later. We thought we had made the last ascent for this season haha. Suprised to find such good ice only 1 hour away from Munich this late in the season.

Btw I'm following Juraclimbs and your personal YouTube. Good stuff.

Wartet bitte bis zum Sommer. Allein, dass ihr fragen müsst, zeigt, dass ihr nicht auf sowas vorbereitet seid.

7um4dr3
5Edited
3moLink

All trails are open all the time. You just have to have the necessary skills. And be aware of the avalanche situation. Please check the report before you do anything.

Skitouring is the way to go in the winter. There’s a good bit of snow above 1500m in the Alps which makes going by foot extremely demanding. Expect to sink in a lot with every step.

Regarding gear: If you are not on groomed trails or streets you should bring avalanche equipment. Shovel, probe and beacon.

Also r/mountaineering might be the more appropriate subreddit. This one’s about technical alpine climbing.

And don’t forget to bring your wooden ice axe. The only way to be safe from thunder up there.

Kinda boring naturewise. I second Norway and Sweden. Or the Balkans.

Lasst euch nicht von dem Plan abbringen. Es gibt auch in den Alpen und in den deutschen MSL-Gebieten genug coole Routen zwischen IV und V.

Versucht doch mal nen Kurs über eine Bergschule zu finden. Da sollte ab dem Frühjahr einiges gehen. Z.B. hier: https://www.alpinewelten.com/bergsteigerschule/kletterkurse

Dude there's plenty of technical mountaineering, scrambling, ice climbing and alpinism to be done in North America. Don't get hung up on those "bigger" mountains. Height means nothing for alpinism. The top Alpinists nowadays hang out in places like Patagonia where the mountains aren't much higher than about 13k feet.

I don’t know if an Indian course is going to be of value to becoming a guide in Europe.

Check out the exemplary tour books of the german guiding association. There you‘ll find the kind of climbs you should have done prior to applying for the guiding training.

https://storage.tramino.net/vdbs/1219982/vdbs-tourenbuch-2023.pdf

Are you based in Tirana? There’s a small bouldering gym in which you might find other climbers and alpinists. I heard that the owner is a pretty accomplished dude.

Play SOD -> people playing the old dungeons in a normal pace.