This question extremely subjective. There isn’t a right answer. Professional guides solo pitches without a belay routinely (while tied to a slack rope) and protecting clients and working. However, My clients are tied to an anchor and protected from my movements.
Also Easy is subjective
Climbing fully without rope a is a personal acceptance of risk to exposure, free of judgment. It doesn’t matter what you and I think unless you are the soloist. Sure a soloist interacting around your climbing party is a logistical factors. But there is no right and wrong what we think about soloists either. We are in the bleachers, they are on the court.
I tried making yogurt with Cococnut Milk (because it was what I had) and I used 2 Tbs of Tapioca Starch and it didn’t set. Any ideas. Sorry if this is obvious.
Wonderful. Very exited about new recipes. So how does one local specialty cultures in his recipes. Do you know a source?
Rad thanks. Ok I just ordered his book. How does this DR. Aquire those specific strains. Do they describe that in the book?
Heirloom MESOPHILIC starter culture that is
Hey Y’all, I’m looking to make yogurt with goat or sheep milk. I am looking for the best starter that will give me the most variety of cultures. I am trying to repair my population with a multi-pronged approach after taking antibiotics and have not had the best whole food diet. Yogurt and fermented foods is one of my spokes.
I have developed an intolerance to eggs and am experiencing depression among other possibly related issues.
Thanks for any tips.
You should look at Ama. This is how most people do it.
“In 1994, the unconquered Ganghkar Puensum was closed to climbers, along with all other peaks in Bhutan higher than 6,000m (19,800ft) – reportedly out of respect for local spiritual beliefs. “The Bhutanese are very keen on protecting their own people,” Griffin says. “They just looked at what was going on in Nepal with Everest and decided that they’re not going to be part of that.”’ -from The mountains we have never climbed
Basically if you attempted to or climbed it, and then continued to promote your ascent, one would be defacing a local and spiritual icon of the local people. This would not be very popular or productive on many levels. Especially in today’s climate.
My personal opinion this climber should loose all future funding and get their ass kicked. Fuck off and get over yourself. You standing on the top is not more important than a 1000-years of heritage. And ONLY with permission of the locals should it be permissible not a government permit system. Respect. Use the golden rule. It applies here more than ever.
You don’t see Tibetans monks planning Expeditions to western sacred religious sites simply to surmount them. They don’t camp at the base for months, leave poop and trash, take a photo standing on a monumental crucifix, or draft a topo, and spray about the fortitude required to pitch out Jesus’s face. The pope and the world wouldn’t stand for it.
It’s a beautiful looking peak however
Don’t forget Gördan Kropp
Not weird and it’s a great way to train. They can wait. But if you are concerned ask them to cycle in with you and climb while you rest.
Good questions. I run the www.mountainbureau.com and I would be happy to tell you where we’ve been successful with our rock, climbing, progressions, and ad hoc clinics such as the one you propose. I have run many intermediate clinics and advanced level clinics, including all the ones on your list in the last 20 years.
Where are you based? I’m happy to zoom call to spare us both typing.
I can totally relate to seeing images of a Climber attached to the seemingly impossible, and being viscerally motivated by the image. Don’t let go of that. I support your concept of long-term goals and I hope you achieve them. Long-term goals are often what gets us out of bed in the morning. Keep us motivated through our entire training process.
What I’ve learned through setting my own long-term goals is that there is a certain level of naivety and ignorance that comes with fully understanding the process to reach that goal. Also a certain level of misunderstanding between my expectations what the experience might be like and reality. You might not ever reach that first big goal, but it’s where the spark started.
There are certain number of assumptions that we all make when one self identifies as a newbie. So please accept my apology if if you’re just being modest, I’m impressed that you know about the Cezch Direct at all.
I have complied some links for you to check out. I personally know all of the people involved and can say everyone has dedicated their entire lives to being an alpinist. This is a short list. I hope you can include your name someday.
https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201215267
https://www.climbing.com/news/speed-ascent-slovak-direct-denali/
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=2qXUxlTk0IM
I’m starting a mentorship group and you could be a good candidate. Let me know if something like this interests you. I would be honored to help you get from 0-to-60.
Goals are nice. But there are very few teams that could attempt this and survive. And I’m not sure of Clint has attempted it in his days. He likes to explore too much.
I would pick a more tangible target. This route is fucking hard. K2 is hard for other reasons, but the Slovak is a savage line. Proud send.
I’m not nutritionist but If you suffer from IBS, you must be more selective with diet. I recommend you stay away from processed foods or imitation food products like Idahoans. I would spend a little bit more money and get more boutique freeze dried dinners like Good to Go and intentionally avoid inflammatory or spicy foods.
Because freeze-drying does not use any heat or added preservatives, the nutritional values of the product are virtually unchanged from its original state. Maximum nutritional value with the 25-year shelf life proves why freeze-drying truly is the healthiest and most versatile option to preserve food.
My hope is to keep this firearm in the state is its legal not WA
Get a gri gri! Send on!
Anchor is sound with good material, redundant, equalized, not extension. (ERNEST) However, the angles are too steep and need to be reduced. A longer sling or rope will reduce to the angles and further increase the strength of your anchor.
Mark Allen www.mountainbureau.com
https://www.mountainbureau.com/the-bureau-blog/climbers-tricks-rigging-alpine-tents
Your camp will be near or just above tree-line. The weather can be foul but is not extreme in the Cascades.
A three season tent is adequate
Have a great trip!
Island Peak and Kilimanjaro will give you some mobility improvements but not any proper mountain sense pertaining to Glacial mountaineering.
Rainier-USA Grand Paradiso-IT Dom-CH
This line up would more appropriate.
If I were soloing would also take the CLIMB MONT BLANC - COSMIQUE ROUTES: THE 3 MONT BLANC TRAVERSE. Simply because there are way less people significantly less rock fall, but greater crevasse risk.
https://www.chamonixmontblancguides.com/climbing-routes-on-mont-blanc
Tell us how you get along.
Mark Allen -www.MountainBureau.com
Way to go buddy! Stoked for you
I run a Baker Program and am happy to talk to you either way: https://www.mountainbureau.com/scheduled-programs-blog/mount-baker-easton-and-coleman-deming-glacier-routes
Mark Allen
Oh copy. Understood. So is the risk from the exposure to a fall or the nature of not having a partner? Either way this exposure introduces by an individual choice and personal acceptance of risk. Outside opinions are certainly expressed but meaningless, much like sports casting.
It might not align with my choices but I fail to find a relevance to civility or morality here.
Soloist don’t have death wishes, quite the opposite actually they’re trying to live an extraordinary life. Not expressing themselves in this flow state just might be the death of their soul.
Just my 2cents
Top Young Alpinist Dies Free Soloing
alpinism