American IFMGA guide seeking students that value mentorship

My name is Mark Allen and I run a small shop called the Mountain Bureau based in the North Cascades of Washington State. I also work in Alaska, Peru, Canada, Norway and the Alps. I have come to learn that I really enjoy working with individuals or teams that want to progress in higher level alpinism. I have been a professional guide for 25-years and you can find my bio on my site https://www.mountainbureau.com

I'm currently forming a mentorship program and am gauging interest. I'm gearing up for a big season in the Cascades and then plan to work with several clients in the Alps this summer. If ticking off a peak of your dreams in high on the list, we can do that to. I base out of The North Cascades and Zermatt for the summer and finish on the Dolomites as the Alps get dry late season, then final summer days in the North Cascades.

I get a lot from sharing my craft. I've been climbing for over 35 years in the alpine and want to share this gift with you. Drop me a line. I'm looking forward the connection.

in alpinismby Ok-Structure4969

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How is a mentorship program than just purchasing a guide?

Ok-Structure4969

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Hi @2737jsusbs. Indeed I guide many clients on objectives that require them to learn how to move in the mountains to succeed with their goals. For example my matterhorn program: www.mountainbureau.com/scheduled-programs-blog/matterhorn-summit-program . I really enjoy this classic formate of guiding too, as I am the access this individual would not have otherwise, quintessential mountain tourism. These clients will not aspire to lead themselves or explore on their own. It’s not their goal. An adventure is.

Then there is a newer larger and growing demographic that has a deep desire to learn and explore on their own. Yet these clients need and want guidance, but more importantly a mentor. This is a mindset and a relationship. I want my students to elevate beyond the current objective and constantly seek new challenges. I have experienced many of these challenges and find mentorship is a unique kind of time with clients that is more meaningful than a programed course.

It is hiring a guide. But there is a lot of time talking and learning together not in the mountains that is more effective and cost effective. But it’s not for everyone. Just those with a keen desire to improve and explore.

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I will be living in north cascades. It would be great to have access to learning ability with a lower entry/price point!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Great. Well it sounds like we might have a group forming. I will make sure to include you in my plans. Any particular goals you would like to prepare for?

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Nope! Just looking to affordable and continually expand my confidence and abilities in the mountains so that I can climb more often and in different ways!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Love it. That’s all you need really. A love for efficiency safe movement in the environment you want to be. I’ll keep in touch

Super-Garage8245

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It is hiring a guide. But there is a lot of time talking and learning together not in the mountains that is more effective and cost effective. But it’s not for everyone. Just those with a keen desire to improve and explore.

Time effective yes but cost effective, are you kidding? This program is $6800 for 5 to 6 days on the mountain... A regular alpine guide will usually cost $200-250 per person per day ($400 for one day with 2 persons). This program includes a lot of other things and perks (huts, hotel, some dinners, lifts etc.) but even considering all that, it is still 3x to 5x times the cost of regular guiding. (I'm guessing having it located in Switzerland doesn't help)

I agree that unfortunately most "regular" guides don't put a lot of emphasis on learning. Often they just take you to the summit and then run all the way down to the car (so they can finish work early) while you struggle to keep up. You still learn a lot but it's not meant primarily as a learning experience. For this reason I would love to spend a bit extra to get more intense mentoring would be nice.

But despite being comfortable financially, I can't afford this. Last year I went with UCPA - about 1000 EUR all included for a week of introductory mountaineering. This year I'm going with my local alpine club, 1100 EUR + accommodation costs for more advanced stuff. That, plus some week-ends unguided for practice, is cost effective; this program isn't. Again, I'll grant that it's time effective, but only dentists and traders can afford this.

Ok-Structure4969

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Don’t confuse my Matter Program a week long all inclusive climbing vacation in Switzerland with my accessible mentorship program.

You are not wrong Super-Garage. You are not my target audience for my Alps programs. Please don’t take offense. I have other programs for folks with your budget learning aspirations in mind, and now working on something even more accessible. But that’s not everyone. Your goals are a common demographic which is why I’m creating products for you. My Matterhorn program is a week long all inclusive climbing vacation in Switzerland! Not everyone can afford that. And that’s ok. But what I can say is my clients have been super happy this product and have indicated it was money well spent.

What kind of program would you find value? What kind of instruction inspire you?

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Hi Mark,

I'm Davide, 27, based in Italy, Milano. My wife and I started "easy" alpinism, rock climbing, and ice climbing about a year and a half ago, but we're struggling to improve. Here are some of our accomplishments:

Augille Marbrees
Cresta OSA
Via Normale Torrione Magnaghi
Acheronte Ice Fall
Goulotte Pussy Riot

This summer, we have different target such as Aiguille de Rochefort or Aiguille de l'Entrèves.

Unfortunately, since we don't have stronger friends to rely on, we have to be extremely cautious in our choices, which limits us.

Any advice to improve?

Thank you!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Hi Dave, I know the feeling. When I was younger than you and your wife I didn’t have access to a mentor and I was super keen. Rock climbing in the valley is easy to improve but application into the alpine felt lofty.

Being cautious right now is a good thing. You don’t know what you don’t know about the Mountains. It takes many trips to begin to see the patterns of how to move in the mountains. Be patient and stay curious. The beginning will feel like it takes a long time. Just try to have fun with it. The progress will compound exponentially. It just takes time. That’s because there is so much to know and consider.
-glacier travel
-rock climbing rigging -weather -equipment selection -season conditions -movement on rock and Ice -ice climbing rigging

The list is long for an alpinist. It is a pure mountain craft with a multitude of skills. My advice is to not skip steps and practice the fundamentals skills on many smaller objectives without scaling the difficulty too and the size of the objectives too quickly. I like to even repeat objectives to improve on my plans and try different strategies or different conditions. Journaling is also important at almost every stage. And debrief your trips together talk about.
1. Were we good, or just lucky 2. What would we do differently
3. What did you do well 4. Where were you most at risk 5. What can we improve

Practice rope work at crags or in your back yard and on smaller objectives without commitment. Get your rope craft down so you don’t waste time in the alpine. Carve out several days to Work on your crampon work on a dry glacier and top rope steeper footwork. Practice navigating before you need to in a whiteout or storm. And improving your technique on the rock is simple miles. This is perfected at the crag and taken into the mountains. If you are only climbing mountains your rock progresses will be slower.

Go do the Entréves and then go do it again. Learn from your mistakes and try new solutions. Approach it with better strategy the 2nd day. The Rochefort Traverse is kinda of a massive and exposed day. Look at Tour Ronde instead.

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Hi thank you very much for your extensive answer and useful advice. Is your mentorship program something that I could benefit from?

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Just out of curiosity, is there nothing similar in Milano or in the area?

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Just out of curiosity, is there nothing similar in Milano or in the area?

Ok-Structure4969

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No I don’t think so.

Ok-Structure4969

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Indeed. My aim is to make it accessible and available. We have not fully developed the formate but it will in entail access to a guide, a community of people, curriculum, occasional regional clinics, and forums on a tiered subscriber model. I hope to have the pilot running by June. I would be honored to have you and your wife benefit.

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I would be interested for sure! please let us know when available!! thanks

Neither_Detective_14

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Hi Mark!

My name is Tucker and I’m based in the cascades. I have been climbing for about 5 years and have gotten on some pretty rad climbs in those 5 years. I am self taught. Because of this I realize there are gaps in my skill set and I still have a lot to learn in the alpine. A mentor is something I feel like I have been missing in my climbing and have been actively looking for someone to work with to gain skills and confidence for bigger alpine objectives. This would be an awesome program for someone trying to gain the skills to be as safe as possible on big objectives.

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Hey Tucker. Totally. I was initially self taught, and it got really pretty far, but I too had some serious gaps in my core knowledge. Honestly, I was lucky to have survived those formidable years. We have a few people in the cascades that are already interested in mentorship group. Regardless of the span of experience, I think it’s still will be rewarding for everybody. I’m really excited to experiment with a coaching format. We are looking at the platform now and hope it will be a rewarding space for folks to have access to a guide, professional climbers, each other, and material, and a seasonal clinics. My aim to have folks meet, climb, and come back to learn and get feedback. I would also like to put a chaperoned expedition or trips together some place like the Canadian coastal range or Alaska. I’ll keep you posted. Where are you based?

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Hey Mark - my husband and I have worked with mountain bureau in the past for our AIAIRE 2 and most recently were working with the late great Rob on some glacier skills for an upcoming objective. We’re based in WA and super interested in this opportunity!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Wonderful! I’m really impressed with the interest from the Cascades. It warms my heart. Well I would be honored to work with Mountain Bureau clients, especially those that know my dear friend and colleague. I’m still working out the format but I hope to have something by June. Would a subscription formate with access zoom sessions, team clinics, and feedback loops be of interest?

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Hey Mark!

I'm actually said husband/partner. We just returned from Denali and were talking about your mentorship idea while we were out there. Honestly, we would be interested in any long term formats!

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Hey Mark, My name is Tom and I’m a climber in the Cascades as well. My current climbing partner has done some climbs with you and had great things to say. I’d like to be included in any future info about this program.

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Hey Tom! Great. Was that Yev by any chance? I would love to work with you. I think we have a nice collection of people to work with Im really excited about the initial response. I’ll be working with my Program Director in the coming weeks to form how we best want to roll this out. Stoked to connect with you.

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No don’t know Yev, I’ve been climbing with Brian Igleheart lately.

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Will vouch for Mark - quality is all you will find. Myself and other friends have gone on guided trips / avy training with him.

Signed, PNW Splitter

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Hi there, thanks for your post! I’m in the middle of transitioning from guided climbs to unsupported climbs, and looking for mentorship towards that goal. Would be happy to hear what you are putting together. Thanks!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Hi Malthusian1798. You bet. I’ll keep you in the loop

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Hi Mark,

I’m Ryan, I’m 24, and I would be super interested in a mentorship program!

I’m in the process of moving into a van with my partner to go all in on the climbing thing (in all forms), and will most definitely spending lots of time in BC/Washington. Im super stoked, but my experience is pretty limited to guided mountaineering courses and sport/trad multipitch/alpine rock (recently started to trad climb in the past year).

I’m really excited to get out more into the mountains, do some proper mountaineering, and eventually combine it all with rock climbing and ice climbing! In the mean time, I’m just watching YouTube videos on technical rope skills and getting stronger at the crags…

Anyways, I would love a program with a goal of learning with like minded individuals.

Please keep me in the loop!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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I think this could be a good place for you. I’m really excited to see the interest and am hoping to have a pilot for everyone for this summer.

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Looking forward to it!

As a side question: when you were starting out, how did you go about meeting/finding partners that had similar big alpine goals as you?

I’ve got big dreams climbing in the mountains, but I’d also like to do it as safely as possible, without getting in over my head (as you mentioned in another comment). I’ve got sport climbing partners, trad climbing partners, Squamish partners… but man it’s sometimes hard to find the kind of people that really like to get out there, that also have a similar safety oriented/learning mindset as you.

Any advice?

Brilliant_Sentence_3

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Hi Mark,

I’m Alex, based in WA as well. Think this is an awesome idea and would love to be kept in the loop on it. More mentorship is certainly something I’ve craved the last couple of years as I’ve increasingly pursued adventures in the mountains. There’s so much to learn (often overwhelmingly so) and receiving feedback and getting to ask questions is invaluable. Hope to connect in the future!

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Sound good Alex. How you you describe the type of terrain it objectives you wish to aspire to. And where are you now in that process.

Brilliant_Sentence_3

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Definitely aspire to climb in alpine terrain. I’m still a long way away, currently building confidence with the basics of trad climbing in single pitch settings. Working towards a strong base of problem solving skills

Ok-Structure4969

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Great. We have a crew of folks just like you. We will get organized in May and have an intake form for interested folks in a few weeks that try to be rolling by June 1st

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Hi Mark.

Count me in please. I feel my main issue here is that as a Carpathians climber, I don't have easy access to glaciated terrain, and it's hard to know what I'm missing when I only get to bigger ranges once a year. I'm also in the process of transitioning from guided client to less often guided client, and finding partners is always a pain in the ass, so here's hoping your program will also involve student interaction :)

My thecrag profile is in my profile, if that's useful to you

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Hi mark, not sure it's something you offer but do you happen to do hourly mentoring consultations? I'm based in the US mid Atlantic so not anywhere near where you'll be hosting all this but would still be great to pick your brain on various alpine topics my partner and I need to improve on such as weather reporting, glacier travel, etc. we'd be fine paying per hour for some feedback/advice via a zoom call or something since we're not physically in your area?

Ok-Structure4969

OP

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Hey Napetizer! Yes! I’m going to be developing a format where you have private or community access to mentorship. I’m gaining insight from my colleagues athlete on appropriate pricing that feels fair for my time and your value. I’m going to be sending out an intake form next week. So I can start working with students such as yourself ASAP.

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