Yes USB-C ports are 2-way for many things and have been since their inception.
For example, webcams use USB.

What I was talking about is HD video e.g. HDMI, DIsplayPort (DP) direct to the display as if it was a monitor. I haven't seen that.

While techinicaly I don't see why It couldn't be possible It's just not something done even these days with DP over USB-C.

Maybe one day.

I'm not your mate.

The pic of your issue spoke volumes, it was too high.

And you left out material details about how it worked fine with other prints pointing people in the wrong direction effectively setting them up, then you released more information contradicting them. Good on you, I'm sure it feels good.

Wow. You got a good one there.

I'd say everey spool or nozzle change at least.

FYI for future reference, coming here asking for help and then in turn insulting those trying to assist isn't the best way to get the help you're looking for.

I never claimed to be an "expert", don't think anyone has.

If it was printing too high and you had to "lower" it to get the lines to "squish together" then your Z was too high, this is a fact you told us. Now the cause of that situation may have not been your calibration, perhaps there was some error in the G-code of that one file (slice).

Have you tried re-slicing that one print? I've had a couple bad slices over the years that almost had me convinced my printer was broke. Some error in the slicer or on the SD card I don't know. I just know they were f'ed up and the printer did weird things.

Also take this as a lesson to use the proper tool for the job. Those are for cutting electrical wire which is usually copper.

There are other snips with hardened blades for cutting steel.

Yikes! What is your infill %? You have it way too high for a static model.

I do 5% infill as my default, I'll go down to 3% for larger things.

For things that I want "strong" I might bump it up to 10-15%. Part strength comes more from wall thickness (number of perimeters) than it does infill.

And i second what u/shadowkiller said, "Adaptive cubic" is the only way to go for giant voids like this.

Yeah except this is purely cosmetic, where the other is a major fiasco.

Replace the cable.

How did that even happen? mine stays up out of the way and is shielded.

"Honest mistake"?!

By definition accidents are not done on purpose.

As other's have mentioned you need to be concerned about the damage to the bumper (which is not visible) and not the surface damage to the "bumper cover".

Looking at the first print, you definitely were too high.

This looks too high (your Z height).

Also as everyone else has mentioned, clean your bed.

I so very excite!

Most of the issues you talk about point to a dirty and/or improperly setup bed.

Ha, yep.

Of course I was only half-joking.

I couldn't say 100% of Fenders will get a neck pocket crack, but it's so ubiquitous that I assume they all have or will have the crack so it's no big deal if they do.

What do you mean by "extruder wire"?

The extruder is the motor and gears that push the filament, that would not be causing these issues.

https://github.com/kercre123/wire-pod/wiki

It varies. One of the downsides of dealing with China-based companies is they're about 12 hours out of sync. Support can take a bit of back and forth, with one message per day.

EDIT: If it was me I'd probably just open it up and see if there's a fuse. Since I already broke it there's not much to lose.

with this printer Ive had issues where it is not level...

YOU have to level it. The "paper test" you speak of is how you set your Z height. This is almost everything when it come to parts sticking. You have to manually set level at each point. The "auto level" procedure compensates for slight variations in the bed it does not set your Z height.

With the paper, you got to get it to the point where there's resistance to moving the paper but it can still move.

Yeah OP gave us nothing to go on.

Also:

• What printer?
• What hotend?

This is quite possible.

First make sure the thermistor and heater are firmly seated. I had the heater in my hotend get loose and cause all kind of temp errors.

"Natural" peanut butter should be refrigerated.

I don;'t think it matters as much with the "fake" shit.

Dang.

There still might be a fuse or something similar in there. Reach out to support.

Most times if it's not sticking then your bed is dirty or it's Z height. Wash the bed with soap and water, thoroughly dry it. DO NOT TOUCH THE BUILD PLATE WITH YOUR HANDS, this will make it greasy and prevent prints from sticking. Also clean it often with isopropyl.

No shade being thrown here, I find it hard to believe you can properly set Z-height yet don't know how to set temps or even proper temps for filaments.

I encourage you to spend some time learning more. There's so much to absorb and you're already starting off on the wrong foot.

10% gyroid or 15% other infill as a minimum.

You really don't. I do 5% gyroid most of the time with little issue. Sometimes 3%.

Top layers have more to do with how the top looks, perimeters for strength.

Did you set your Z height? Do you know what that is?

Please do yourself a favor and go to YouTube and start watching videos on 3D printing for beginners. NO shame in being a beginner, you got to start somewhere.

There is just too much for us to cover, and you know so little you can't even articulate most of what is going on.