Yeah I can see that. Any eye contact attention command is a must for me now though. 

"Look" at me is my favorite command that often goes overlooked and undertrained.

Or more importantly, actually punish the crimes commited with them. Laws against possession generally wind up being being used against otherwise law abiding citizens.

You're probably in the realm of having gotten your moneys worth out of the barrel. If you shoot regularly, you could always pick up a new barrel try it out and see if things change significantly for some reason, return to the old barrel if it hasn't, and wait for things to open up.

Romeo1Pro is fine, I have a couple and don't have any problems with them. I have one on my 320 xfive that makes regular range trips and one I'm using an offset on a rifle that's rocking a 2-10x. I have a Holosun EPS on my P226 currently and it' a solid system but fitting it requires a C&H plate to fill the cut.

One of the TLR7 variants with the controls you want is probably the move.

Veder doesn't make "light bearing" hosters from what I can tell. ANR Designs does, and I have one of their holsters for my P365xl with the TLR7-sub and its worked well for what I've needed.

It wouldn't be my first choice to add outboard corners when the EPS carry exists but if you have it, and it works for you, why not.

I'm too old to be protesting, but I have visited Israel and the West Bank in 2008 and have a friend who's family lives in Ramallah and used to live in Jenin until the setteler situation became so hostile. There is definitely step to far in a lot of this but the general treatment of Palastinians warrants condemnation by US well preceding the Oct 7th attacks. The US in the Bush era and Israel since has done everything to create a generational powderkeg of disaffected youth with nothing to lose. They've empowed Hamas through a failure to give any victories to moderates (Fatah or Palastinian Authority) to be able to hoist within their community on issues of territorial sovernty, recognition of basic human rights, and aknowlgement of the validity of governing bodies. They've allowed continued encroachment on Palastinian territory through settlements and furthered their treatment of the Palastinian people as little more than cattle to be hearded into an ever shrinking pasture through apartied walls, blockades and dehumnization.

I understand the motivations and reality of the current war, there was no acceptable answer other than to destroy Hamas for their vile acts of rape an murder and as they're ingrained in every aspect of Gaza, that surely means complete destruction but I honestly don't see how Israel at this point returns Gaza to the Palastinians. They've leveled almost everything with the completion of that coming as they push south and the political will to allow re-establisment of any kind of normal life for Palastinians will be non-existant within the Knesset.

This isn't some solution to things, I'm really in no position to have one, but I do understand the anger that we just poured billions into what will likely be the erradication of the homeland of a people who were largely born into a life with no hope. Hamas is a scourge, Netenyau is a power hungry politician that never saw any benefit to acknowledging the Palastinian people, and we're somehow mixed up in this to the point where our muntions are the ones being used to to level city blocks and pour the blood of innocent civilians into the streets.

You're pedantically correct in that the "terminal velocity" of a bullet doesn't change, but it's a framing issue. Free fall terminal velocity is the point where the drag induced + boyance is equal to the force of gravity and only references the speed at which something is moving towards the earths center of gravity. A bullet greatly exceeds terminal velocity in the direction of the barrel by the force of gun powder which is far higher than earths gravity. A falling bullet wont break the sound barrier but one out of a barrel sure will. And they do tend to fall flat for whatever reason. I'm sure that's been explained, but it probably has something to do with mass and the lack of fins to create directional drag.

You should use bicycle brake cables and housing instead of paracord. It'll be a lot more responsive.

Bike brake cable and good housing should remove the need for a roller and provide a better actuation. Running the housing between the end of the hand slide and the start of the actuator(s?) should make it feel really responsive.

I'm going through a rethink of my packing setup at the moment. A lot of my switch is going to be from a seatbag/large handlebarg bag to pair of Old Man Mountain Elkhorns. I'd rather have the little bit of weight than the bag wiggling around, crowded cockpit, and I've got good lightweight dry bags I'll protect with Tyvek cutouts from abrasion. I've got a small handlebar bag that is also a hippack for quick access and to take with me if I'm leaving the bike. Framebag I think I might just go full triangle and bladder for water. Most of what I've done and plan on is camping and a lot of the areas around here are blackbear territory so I have to deal with bear bags/canisters depending on whats allowed which eats up space.

Compared to that dry bag you were using (which looks like it was built for rafting), the SeaToSummit evac bags are probably going to get you decent weight savings back if you switch back to a rack and aren't terribly expensive.

It sounds like you're in the sweetspot for fast gravel rigs. T3 might be worth looking at and I loved my Open UP for that role in DC. Where I live now I wanted something with a bit more tire and went to an Osto Wahella C and I'm loving it.

How could you not match it with the Tango6T DVO?

Bauer has it for 4k... but that still makes that a 2K suppressor unless I'm missing something.

Two things to try:

First if you notice their attention is locking in, just turn around and without a command or notification walk the other way with purpose and give a stiff tug if they don't notice. After a couple of "how'd you get over there?"'s they'll typically pay a little more attention to where you are and less on distractions. This is trying to avoid needing some command to regain paying attention to you walking.

Secondly an attention command is generally useful anyway and heelers can be a bit of a handful. We use "look at me" and it means, I want eye contact and stay close. We've trained it now to solid heel, but that just kinda comes with time. There are videos etc on training the command, but any time I use it, it's very high reward. Left to her own devices our heeler can really want to try and get a piece of the neighborhood rabbits, deer, turkey, black bears and doodle breeds specifically for whatever reason, but on that command she'll lock eyes and stay with me.

Yeah, it's really just venting laterally, it's not like a typical break where it's being driven forward at all or even the muzzle specifically down. Behind gas guns I find it quieter though on my nomad. Nearby friends not as much, but my guess is it's gas pressure at the ejection port is lower which I'll take. On my bolt guns I think it sounds better closed up.

I caused something similar by not fully locking the shaft into position at some point on a trimmer I have that supports different attachments.

If you're doing signal descrimination, you'll need some horsepower and it's going to be hard to tell the difference between WiFi/BT and UAV Command and Control if there even is a difference. Lots of DSP and signal intelligence kind of work there. If you're just trying to detect signals at all, I'd just use notch filters for the desired frequency and a power meter design.

Are you making your own PCB or just trying to COTS? The Linear Technologies LTC5587 is probably a good starting point if you want to roll your own for a power sensor/meter. You'll need to roll your own front end to filter and potentially amplify the signal depending on how sensitive you want this to be but reading power levels from the chip itself is really straight forward with just active high lines for specific power levels. There are probably breakouts available for the LTC5587 if you're trying to prototype without a custom PCB. Then you could use COTS SDR bandpass and Low Noise Amplifier boards (noelec might have what you need but there are people on etsy/tindie/etc that are making those kinds of boards for HAMs/hobbiests) to make your front end.

The typical rule for a retaining wall is as deep as the wall is tall, but I think the width of a corregated pipe to be placed below the gravel right at grade for the wall would work fine here. If the walls were originally built with the corregated pipe down under there (probably based on the gravel on top) you'd just need to put gravel and filter fabric layers for ~3-4 inches packed against the wall.

Couldn't fit both in one comment:

[Loki, ESS XLASB MWD Dual Web]

'Full Duplex' Ballistic Control System

'Full Duplex' Ballistic Control System

Damage Control II

Federation Navy Stasis Webifier

Multispectrum Shield Hardener II

Thukker Medium Cap Battery

Gistum C-Type 50MN Microwarpdrive

Multispectrum Shield Hardener II

X-Large Ancillary Shield Booster

Federation Navy Stasis Webifier

[Empty High slot]

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Sisters Expanded Probe Launcher

Medium Ancillary Current Router II

Medium Processor Overclocking Unit I

Medium Hydraulic Bay Thrusters I

Loki Core - Immobility Drivers

Loki Defensive - Augmented Durability

Loki Offensive - Launcher Efficiency Configuration

Loki Propulsion - Wake Limiter

Two quick rapid light cooks that probably have some room to optimize. I've liked rapid lights on a loki since they match your web range (and long point). On the XLASB/MWD fit, you could fit a long point (recommend 30km Domination/Republic Fleet) if you swap a multispec but you may want to bump to a pith-c on the one you leave to preserve some tank and drop a "Full Duplex" BCS down to a T2 to make up some of the cost since you're freeing up CPU. I hope maybe these help get you where you want to go.

[Loki, ESS LSB Single Web AB]

Ballistic Control System II

Ballistic Control System II

Damage Control II

Reactor Control Unit II

Reactor Control Unit II

Federation Navy 100MN Afterburner

Multispectrum Shield Hardener II

Federation Navy Stasis Webifier

Gist C-Type Large Shield Booster

Thukker Large Cap Battery

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Rapid Light Missile Launcher II

Sisters Expanded Probe Launcher

[Empty High slot]

Medium Core Defense Operational Solidifier II

Medium Ancillary Current Router II

Medium Capacitor Control Circuit I

Loki Core - Immobility Drivers

Loki Defensive - Adaptive Defense Node

Loki Offensive - Launcher Efficiency Configuration

Loki Propulsion - Intercalated Nanofibers

Does it need to be cloaky? How opposed to LASB/XLASBs are you?

On the PVP side they're both solid. Loki can run 30+km web/point/RLM and be a pest that's a great first to land, makes a decent HAM platform with webs, and is a great logi. Tengu can make you blind with ECM or break 1000dps in a HAM fit without getting too blingy. Tengus generally have the raw DPS/EHP advantage, but the Loki can make up for it a bit with those webs. Specifically in wormholes, I prefer running the pest loki for getting out of escalating situations when I'm solo roaming.

On a budget I've also had good luck through several cases of the 77g AAC with SMK. Shoots close enough to Razor Core for for me switching between them isn't an issue. Supressed I'm not willing to chance the AAC projectiles with reports of issues running around but with the Sierra bullets its been fine.

In Asheville We have 3/4 of an acre, a little of the front can be mowed, but the whole back has to be hit with weedeaters since its steep. They do the front for $80 and probably takes 2 guys a little under an hour so there's some cost of just showing up there which is fine and we're on an every 2 weeks schedule. The back we do once a month and that's $90. They also take care of weeding and trimming, mulch etc at $40 an hour per head. Most of our spend is in the fall/spring cleanups which are a full day or more depending on what needs to be done with a crew of 4 or so.

We've cycled through a couple of folks over a couple of years and finally landed on a crew that shows up when they say they're going to or at least communicates if they have to delay. Every time we've had to switch, it was basically just because the last crew stopped showing up or didn't show up/notify when they weren't going to.