So excited for this! I hope it's well optimised for the PS5

Good to hear, thank you! Do you edit the RAW files or the JPEGs?

Seeking advice: Photo Editing performance on iPad Pro with Photomator

Is anyone using their iPad Pro as the main device for photo editing? How's the performance? I've heard that iPads can get warm and drain battery quickly when using Lightroom. Is Photomator better optimized in this regard?

My main concern is the device getting too hot when editing photos, making the screen dimmer. It happens all the time when I edit pictures on my phone.

For context, I'm a hobbyist photographer considering the purchase of an iPad Pro (2022 edition, with the M2 chip) for photo editing. I typically edit 26MP JPEGs and occasionally some RAW files.

Look at sample pictures on flickr and choose the one with colors that appeal the most to you.

Well, it was in Sony's interest to fix the problem since the games are the money makers. Since Fuji only makes money from hardware, the scarcity works in their favor. Pretty sure their marketing department is very happy with this.

On top of that, they make more money by selling instax products, they have no interest in investing money in scaling up the production of digital cameras.

The hate towards Ørestad is unjustified IMO. It's a residential/business area, not a cultural hub with old paved streets. If you accept it for what it is, I think it's a great area, especially if you value easy access to nature.

Small (independent) bars, shops, cafés and restaurants have a more difficult time here because the monthly rent is quite high and most of the locals prefer to take the metro to the more vibrant neighborhoods for dining, drinks, etc.

There are multiple areas in Ørestad, some are designed better, others feel a bit lifeless. There are always plans and initiatives to improve different aspects of living here, the area is definitely not doomed.

Not OC, but I use the 35mm f2 as my main lens; 80% of the photos I take are during the day, 20% after sunset, without a tripod. The lens is a good option for street photography at night IF you you use artificial light to your advantage (neon signs, street lights, digital billboards, etc). Otherwise you'll want to invest in something faster, especially if night photography is something you want to focus on.

Work with the zoom lens for now, see how you like the process while you learn all the features of the camera. You can get an affordable manual focus lens like the TTartisan 35mm 1.4 if you want to get an idea about how a prime would work for you. Then later down the road you can sell both and get a nice Fuji prime you like (fuji 35mm 1.4 or fuji 23mm f1.4 are some good options).

Great shots, very cinematic! How do you like the lens? I'm considering getting one to accompany my XF 35mm f2 WR (which is my primary lens at the moment).

The pocket of my jacket/overshirt + wrist strap

What's your budget? I would look into getting the X-T20 and a lens instead of the x10 or x100t

For street photography, most people go with primes. But since you seem to lean towards a zoom lens, you can also take a look at the Fujifilm XF 16-55mm f/2.8 R LM WR

The quality of natural light is definitely a thing, and there are a few things that influence it: - the angle of light - near the equator line you have the sun directly above, but near the polar poles the sun is never directly overhead - related to the above, the distance the sun rays travel is also affected by the angle: the lower the angle, the more atmosphere the light has to travel through, resulting in a warmer and less powerful light - cloud cover, moisture and other particles (dust, smoke, etc) are absorning and scattering the light

You can either wait for a new version of the Mini or get the iPad Air 5 now. The iPad Mini 6 is probably enough for now, but you'll probably want an upgrade in two years max. The Air has the M1 chipset and double the amount of RAM, so you can probably use it for four years or more before you you'll feel the need to upgrade.

FujiXWeekly is the main source for recipes, but it's definitely not the only one.

I feel your pain, Sony jpegs feel lifeless to me. Unfortunately there's no easy fix for this; you have to use post processing to get the images to the look you want; once you get that right, you can create presets to apply your settings quickly and to all photos you take.

I'm currently experimenting with picture profiles in camera to limit the amount of post processing I need to do. So far I had decent results with these two: - Vivid: -1 contrast, -1 saturation - Standard: +1 contrast, +2 saturation

The second part of the challenge is getting the WB right. I noticed every little change (+1-/-1) gives too much of a tint to my pictures.

Hardware aside, phones will make post-processing choices for you (by default), which works for most people and/or in most scenarios. If you can gain full control over how your pictures are shot and processed (shooting RAW in manual mode), then you have to navigate a touch interface with various hidden menus. So even if the hardware catches up, a point-and-shoot camera will still appeal to people who want a more hands-on shooting experience.

Moreover, phones no longer have removable batteries, so long shooting sessions mean you have to carry a power bank instead of a spare battery for your camera.

Additionally, you need to consider upgrades, being stuck with one OS ecosystem and having to switch to a new smartphone every couple of years, even if the old one still takes great pictures.

Beautiful colors and layering - it almost looks like a painting!

  • Eclairs from Queen's Delight
  • Cheesecakes from Bartels Salon
  • Any Yuzu dessert from Andersen's Bakery
  • Red berries or raspberry icecream from Kødbyens Is

I support this idea, it would be a good addition.

Go for one of the f2 lenses and buy an adapter ring for the filters. I own the 35mm f2 WR and it's perfect for most of things I do. Every now and then I feel like I could've used something wider, but that doesn't happen often enough to make me regret not getting the 23mm.

If you really want something faster and a bit wider, you can also consider getting a manual focus lens as a secondary. Something like the TTArtisan 23mm F1.4 - they're affordable and good value for money.

Haha, good eye! I'm still not used to shooting with such a small camera, so I end up with my finger poking into the frame at least 3 times per roll.