Base Model is Dummy 13 on Printables
I added the Wild West Paack
Printed on Runners!
Freshly Birthed from assembly
Hanging off my Desk Stranding lamp
Made the 'Figma' style clear case and lid when he's not in use
1/6
Some got a bit chapped in the chaps after this stream
It's exactly that. He comments so in one of his tweets, says he changed his icon to the avatar and made him wonder if he's anime (Google translated anyway)
A twisted path to Renown might be worth a look. Still somewhat early in development, kinda plays like a wild west themed Tarkov, but less missions and more looter extraction shooter, with a side of crafting new weapons in the base camp.
Pre warning: the guns and movement are a bit more realistic to the era. IE clunky.
Seconded. Though as an occasional solo, I know I've even seen myself at 2 star, and then back to 4 after a few 'try hard murder sessions'. It's weirdly hard to get myself back to 5 star if solo, but easier when I am with my trio of buddies
Piggybacking on this, one important highlight here:
Solos and duos in trios means that by default, the individual player MMR is balanced with the teammate shortage in mind, and the smaller teams (duos in trios, or solos in either) will be by default matched against trios that are lower MMR, and are much more likely to run into those scenarios where their kills don't boost their MMR as much as the deaths drop their MMR, and a positive KDR may still result in a negative change to MMR.
Personal opinion (as a P100 3k HR player that does both solo runs and trios with my buddies): the MMR adjustment for a team being shorthanded has always been maybe just a bit too much.... BEFORE solo self-necro was a thing. I felt like I was making it out alive and often with Bounty slightly easier than I probably should have. Now with solo necro, it gives solos an extra chance to come back, or an easy way for solos to tank their MMR should they want to game the system. Even if you have three hot games in a row with no deaths and multiple kills, if you go in with 5 health chunks and eat it to someone that's a star level below you (or two), you can get yourself killed 5x within a minute and (either by intent or just very bad gameplay/high greed) get yourself back to where you started MMR-wise.
I personally try to reserve that self-revive only for when I think I can get away with it (or if I want to kamekaze punish someone trapping me by rezzing when we're both in that freshly laid trap), but still I feel like I get paired with newer or lower MMR players a bit too often, and I know I've encountered solos that want to farm down their MMR so they can keep punching down, even asking other solos they've teamed with to kill them a few times to 'balance' it out.
I think the MMR adjustment system maybe needs a bit of a rebalanced with the changes that have boosted solo's abilities (solo necro, magpie being two big ones).
TIL there's a term for that. Tyvm, bookmarking that read for later.
My uneducated ass over here wanting to explain it as silk PLAs having a 'rubbery quality that makes them rebound on themselves after leaving the nozzle.'
I wonder how much English they use in the home vs Indonesian. Moona doesn't stick to one or the other 100% but maybe that threw him off a bit. Hopefully something like that.
Basically yeah, but you don't have to do each individually. For that octopus, you could make one line that runs the length of a leg, add 7 copies and then put one line on each leg.
Forgot an important step: merge them all so they are treated as one object. Important for gcode pathing
Prusa slicer. Though I imagine others do too. It's an offshoot of Slic3r
Also a note on the photo: didn't follow my own advice, forgot to make the outer frame taller. It tore a little while unsticking from the bed. The 5ish layer outer frame does a better job keeping it together, for satisfying bed removal, but isn't necessary
A cheap one for a small boost, not as good as a real one but a good pre-flight dryer: use the bed.
Set it as hot as your bed can safely, or use a preset if you need. (Prusa setting for HIPS works well). Take an empty filament cardboard box, poke some holes in the back (largest side, not the side it opens on). Lay roll down on the bed and the box overtop, make sure there's a small gap between the bed and the box, curl in the edges if there isn't to make a small gap. You have now made a small dehydrator box out of your printer. Hot air and water vapor out the holes in the top, and air pressure difference will pull in cold air through the bottom.
Ive noticed a small improvement in my PETGs doing a round of this before printing. (letting the safety shutoff kick in after idling preheated. 30m or so)
Brim alternative I've been messing around with: make runners.
If your slicer supports it, you can add small connectors to the pieces so they will support each other. A 0.2mm single layer line, 0.8mm wide (or whatever 2x your nozzle diameter is, so it's just two lines), and as long as you need to connect the pieces. When it's done whether it's pla or PETG, it's small and weak enough to be ripped or snapped off the part with a tug, but strong enough to act as a support between parts. A pair of nips like those blue handle ones thrown in with many printers can make a clean edge.
If the parts aren't enough to support each other, you can make an outer frame to connect them to as well. Still toying with settings for these myself, but maybe try tall enough for 5 layers, and wide enough for 4 walls. So, maybe 1mm tall and 1.6mm wide? Connect the smaller runner boxes between the outer frame and the parts themselves.
I tried this on some tiny, TINY parts earlier today (individual fingers for a normal 100% Dummy 14 model). They were definitely too small to come out clean, but they did all stay in place at least. That's a US Dime in the Pic for comparison.
Most aggressive post on SDV reddit, and it's not even mean just funny. Love it. Also glad ya got it solved. Fuck ass bear.
So since I using PETG and theres a little bit of stringing with such small parts, I'm using a mini torch to clean up the stringing, and 'tweaking' some of these more delicate parts as needed. There's a hinged hip mod with a crossbar that has you trying to print a peg and peg hole to combine two halves of a ball to make it it's own hinge.... And man that is a chore. Sanding, maybe expanding the hole just a wee bit with heat and a needle has helped. But really, with the size of the hole and pin I'm probably gonna just print two pieces with the hole and use a piece of filament as the pin.
Dry as you can PETG, sticking to 0.15mm layer height, and using runners as often as possible has been helping keep these things as tight as possible.
In the photo description of the kit card runner.
Also, if using Prusa slicer and some patience, you can make them yourself. Right click/add shape, make a bunch of boxes, and merge all the boxes and parts together in the end. They aren't as neat as these are, but they are custom to whatever combination of print pieces you're doing. If you are supporting some parts only with support enforcers, it'll carry over to the 'merged single piece' when all the parts and runner pieces are merged
(I'm using 1.1mm high, 1.6mm thick for outer frame, and 0.2mm tall, 0.8mm thick for the connectors between parts and outer frame.)
I do have more printing.... And made one for the GF already
PLA! CookieCAD Funfetti is the filament. Comes out like those cheap rubber bouncy balls you'd find in children's goodie bags in the 90's. Hence the 'sparkles' in the cover and case.
Printed a single layer for the face, using standard PLA settings (I used Prusament PLA settings in Prusa slicer). The side walls are 2 layer, and too thin to have any infil so it's just a shell. Very nearly vase mode made by the model itself rather than slicer settings.
The holding case is same material, 'lite' version from the files linked in the pic to minimize the infil visible through the transparent outer layers.
There are lids linked as well, however I know I saw a 'transparent' lid file out there on printables that was 0.2mm thick by design to achieve the same effect. It's only labled 'transparent' because it's so thin, using an actual clear or transparent filament will improve the effect.
PETG much more recommended, PLA is just too brittle.
If you're dead set on making pla work, make sure it's dry as a bone and don't go too small on layer height. Sand the ball part of the joint if edges are rough for less to catch on, and maybe consider a quick hit with a torch to smooth & melt the surface together. (or anneal it if it's that kind of PLA that works for that)
Still, low chances of success with pla ya want something with a little more flex to get the ball joints to go into the sockets w/o cracking anythinf
Figma balls is a company/line of posable figures commonly associated with anime merch
I didn't adjust first later speed manually, used Prusa slicer default. No adhesion issues here
For those interested:
Prusament Orange PETG and Jet Black PETG, 0.15mm layer height, no supports except for the hat. Pistol I split and printed in two halves.
Links to all used pieces are on photos
Saving that one for later. Just hit 50 subs on YT and Twitch, time to step up and my game :P
Finally Printed Mister Deck
prusa3d