Base Model is Dummy 13 on Printables
I added the Wild West Paack
Printed on Runners!
Freshly Birthed from assembly
Hanging off my Desk Stranding lamp
Made the 'Figma' style clear case and lid when he's not in use
1/6
Yesterday learned about Dummy 13. Today been playing with my newly made toy.
Did you print it with u/soozafone ‘s suggested settings? I am referring to the first layer speed specifically (25% of the default speed), I printed a mini13 on runners (PETG for the frame, PLA for the armor) and the first layers detached from the rest of each part (both armor and frame), this caused some fitting problems (the head and the feet didn’t stick to the frame) and I was wondering if speed is the issue
I didn't adjust first later speed manually, used Prusa slicer default. No adhesion issues here
Thanks I’ll try that
I've had some issues getting ball joints working with PLA (no give/too rigid). Has anyone had success getting this together/functioning well with PLA?
PETG much more recommended, PLA is just too brittle.
If you're dead set on making pla work, make sure it's dry as a bone and don't go too small on layer height. Sand the ball part of the joint if edges are rough for less to catch on, and maybe consider a quick hit with a torch to smooth & melt the surface together. (or anneal it if it's that kind of PLA that works for that)
Still, low chances of success with pla ya want something with a little more flex to get the ball joints to go into the sockets w/o cracking anythinf
This was literally one of the first prints we did on our Carbon X1 and was able to assemble it fine with PLA. We had no clue what the hell we were doing. Knowing what I know now I would reprint in PETG to make the joints hold stronger and fit better. A lot of it probably comes down to printer as well.
I'm still rocking a MOD-t, which I know isn't the best lol. I'll have to dial in PETG settings for it and see how that works out.
I struggle with tolerances. Had to do a lot of sanding and it certainly doesn’t fit together like his build video. I don’t know what the secret is.
So since I using PETG and theres a little bit of stringing with such small parts, I'm using a mini torch to clean up the stringing, and 'tweaking' some of these more delicate parts as needed. There's a hinged hip mod with a crossbar that has you trying to print a peg and peg hole to combine two halves of a ball to make it it's own hinge.... And man that is a chore. Sanding, maybe expanding the hole just a wee bit with heat and a needle has helped. But really, with the size of the hole and pin I'm probably gonna just print two pieces with the hole and use a piece of filament as the pin.
Dry as you can PETG, sticking to 0.15mm layer height, and using runners as often as possible has been helping keep these things as tight as possible.
I printed all my little guys in PLA so far and havent had any issues.Just mabye the joints becoming quite loose after a short time.Mabye try some pla+?
i scaled it 200% 20 infill, printed fine
I have printed a few dozen lucky and dummy, and I found the weapons can be scaled to fit Gundam models and other models too, also there is sooo much variety in the weapons and parts it's fun to see what you can do, wings, blasters, doc ock arms, Soo many different heads and hands and attachments
Careful, they become addictive.
What's figma?
Figma balls is a company/line of posable figures commonly associated with anime merch
Thank you for including both the joke answer and the real answer
Could you share the file please?
the images have links to printables pages attached to them
i have a few luckys, never tried a dummy
"It's high noon."
Is that case also printed? What material is the transparant stuff?
PLA! CookieCAD Funfetti is the filament. Comes out like those cheap rubber bouncy balls you'd find in children's goodie bags in the 90's. Hence the 'sparkles' in the cover and case.
Printed a single layer for the face, using standard PLA settings (I used Prusament PLA settings in Prusa slicer). The side walls are 2 layer, and too thin to have any infil so it's just a shell. Very nearly vase mode made by the model itself rather than slicer settings.
The holding case is same material, 'lite' version from the files linked in the pic to minimize the infil visible through the transparent outer layers.
There are lids linked as well, however I know I saw a 'transparent' lid file out there on printables that was 0.2mm thick by design to achieve the same effect. It's only labled 'transparent' because it's so thin, using an actual clear or transparent filament will improve the effect.
You only made 1?
Not 4 or 5?
How can you pose up scenes like "Hero surrounded by ninjas on all sides." with only 1?
I do have more printing.... And made one for the GF already
You need anywhere from like 15 up to 500 (or more) depending what you want to enact with them.
I personally thought it would be neat to have them through the house doing various things.
Chef hat and apron wearing one holding a "sheet pan with cookies (or a turkey)" in the kitchen. OR looking in a mini-fridge on top of the actual fridge as if they were foraging for snacks.
Reading a newspaper while on toilet in bathroom, another with "shower cap" in mini shower washing off.
In mini bed covered up wearing nightcap in bedroom.
Typing at mini-computer desk beside monitor.
Kicked back on mini-recliner with mini "beer" and "snacks" facing tv in living room.
You know, give the feeling that I am actually co-habituating with a legion of tiny robots
Nice, i just funished printing a 200% scaled up version today. They are just so awesome!
Wait there is a kit card version? All my failed dummies... (Also can I get the link for it?
In the photo description of the kit card runner.
Also, if using Prusa slicer and some patience, you can make them yourself. Right click/add shape, make a bunch of boxes, and merge all the boxes and parts together in the end. They aren't as neat as these are, but they are custom to whatever combination of print pieces you're doing. If you are supporting some parts only with support enforcers, it'll carry over to the 'merged single piece' when all the parts and runner pieces are merged
(I'm using 1.1mm high, 1.6mm thick for outer frame, and 0.2mm tall, 0.8mm thick for the connectors between parts and outer frame.)
Reminds me of scud.
For those interested:
Prusament Orange PETG and Jet Black PETG, 0.15mm layer height, no supports except for the hat. Pistol I split and printed in two halves.
Links to all used pieces are on photos