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Thank you for your contribution, however this post has been removed as this question is best suited to our monthly Purchase Advice Thread, which you can find in the top navigation bar, as a stickied post when sorting by hot or you can view the whole Purchase Advice Post here .
Good luck in your purchase!
Duplicate post
This post has been removed because you have very recently submitted an identical post. This tends to happen sometimes with Reddit. To clarify, this only means one of your duplicate posts have been removed, not both.
It's 2 things.
First is getting the first layer right. If that is good, there is less chance of getting knocked loose. In this case, 70° for a bed temperature is causing Elephants Foot and probably a slight warping.
Second, is when it hits this area of the print. The top of the cabin doors. The heat/cooling issue. Because the printer is not taking much time to print these layers and not moving the hotend away from the area to let it cool, the corners and small tips of the overhangs start to curl up. Then the hotend keeps tapping on the parts that are sticking up until it knocks it loose.
So, getting that first layer to hold so well that it can handle a few hits is extremely important. Get your Z-offset as close to perfect as possible.
Black - way too high
Green - too high
Blue - just about right
Purple - too low
https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5
The curling of the overhangs at the cabin doors can be fixed by improving cooling. And giving it time to cool. there will be a setting in the slicer to slow down the print speed if the layer time is less than a given amount of seconds. In the filament and/or cooling settings. You may also be able to lift the toolhead and move it away from the print for a few seconds.
Once you have a good first layer, reslice so that and some other issues don't happen.
https://files.printables.com/media/prints/2236/stls/14012_b9139bd5-c68b-46a5-ba28-6513f9715d83/3dbenchy.stl
The original orientation causes a couple of problems. "Rotate" the model 272° from the original starboard side to the front of the printer. This puts both sides of the bow so the print cooling fan (on most printers) is getting those equally.
It also fixes the gash on the port side. The marks on the boat that looks like the Captain is drunk and keeps running into the dock...?
That's the "Z-seam". Every layer has to begin and end somewhere. It is set to "rear" in most of the included gcodes. By rotating the model, we have put the rear point at the corner of the stern. If we leave it at rear, it will follow the corners of the cabin. This is also a point that the printer has to slow for the corner so it hides it pretty well. Only the chimney will show the seam a bit.
You can set it in the slicer to "Sharpest Corner" or "Aligned" to get that with or without rotating, but I turn it for the cooling direction.
"Z-hop", "combing", "coasting" are other settings that can effect the printing and printers actions in the slicer.
A lower layer height makes for a smoother Benchy with less overhang issues but it adds to the time.
Thank you for your contribution, however this post has been removed as this question is best suited to our monthly Purchase Advice Thread, which you can find in the top navigation bar, as a stickied post when sorting by hot or you can view the whole Purchase Advice Post here .
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There is links to dryboxes in the WIKI on filament drying.
You need to raise that drying temperature for PETG. Mine is in the dryer the whole time I print. WIKI - Filament Drying
Printing the Protopasta brass filled PLA, I had to slow down, raise the nozzle temperature and increase the flow (Extrusion multiplier) to combat under-extrusion. I need a bed temperature of 70° for the first layer and then 60° for the rest to keep it from warping.
You will need to provide more information for a diagnosis and relevant solutions.
WIKI - Asking For Help
Possibly heat creep.
All3DP - Heat Creep
Thank you for your contribution, however this post has been removed as this question is best suited to our monthly Purchase Advice Thread, which you can find in the top navigation bar, as a stickied post when sorting by hot or you can view the whole Purchase Advice Post here .
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Thank you for your contribution, however this post has been removed as this question is best suited to our monthly Purchase Advice Thread, which you can find in the top navigation bar, as a stickied post when sorting by hot or you can view the whole Purchase Advice Post here .
Good luck in your purchase!
Stringing is mainly caused by...
...nozzle temperature too high.
...retraction speed too slow.
...retraction length too short.
...moisture in the filament.
Do not use the oven to dry plastic. There is a good chance of ruining the entire spool and make the oven unusable for food.
The print speed slowed enough for the bridging layer to then stick in the heatbreak...?
Thank you for your contribution, however this post has been removed as this question is best suited to our monthly Purchase Advice Thread, which you can find in the top navigation bar, as a stickied post when sorting by hot or you can view the whole Purchase Advice Post here .
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Possibly heat creep.
All3DP - Heat Creep
eSun is manufacturing in Viet Nam now also, besides the original Chinese plant.
I have seen quite a few reports of needing different nozzle temperatures depending on where it was manufactured.
Pretty darn well. $460 new.
https://help.prusa3d.com/downloads
https://help.prusa3d.com/tag/mini-2
Got all this for $100 at a yard sale, how’d I do?
3Dprinting