Right most was attempt one left most is most recent attempt. I keep changing settings but nothing seems to be working. I use a Sovol SV06 Plus. Also my settings for temp are 195 Nozzle and 70 Bed. I just don’t want to use glue
Been having some trouble printing a benchy any ideas?
TroubleshootingView all comments
It's 2 things.
First is getting the first layer right. If that is good, there is less chance of getting knocked loose. In this case, 70° for a bed temperature is causing Elephants Foot and probably a slight warping.
Second, is when it hits this area of the print. The top of the cabin doors. The heat/cooling issue. Because the printer is not taking much time to print these layers and not moving the hotend away from the area to let it cool, the corners and small tips of the overhangs start to curl up. Then the hotend keeps tapping on the parts that are sticking up until it knocks it loose.
So, getting that first layer to hold so well that it can handle a few hits is extremely important. Get your Z-offset as close to perfect as possible.
Black - way too high
Green - too high
Blue - just about right
Purple - too low
https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5
The curling of the overhangs at the cabin doors can be fixed by improving cooling. And giving it time to cool. there will be a setting in the slicer to slow down the print speed if the layer time is less than a given amount of seconds. In the filament and/or cooling settings. You may also be able to lift the toolhead and move it away from the print for a few seconds.
Once you have a good first layer, reslice so that and some other issues don't happen.
https://files.printables.com/media/prints/2236/stls/14012_b9139bd5-c68b-46a5-ba28-6513f9715d83/3dbenchy.stl
The original orientation causes a couple of problems. "Rotate" the model 272° from the original starboard side to the front of the printer. This puts both sides of the bow so the print cooling fan (on most printers) is getting those equally.
It also fixes the gash on the port side. The marks on the boat that looks like the Captain is drunk and keeps running into the dock...?
That's the "Z-seam". Every layer has to begin and end somewhere. It is set to "rear" in most of the included gcodes. By rotating the model, we have put the rear point at the corner of the stern. If we leave it at rear, it will follow the corners of the cabin. This is also a point that the printer has to slow for the corner so it hides it pretty well. Only the chimney will show the seam a bit.
You can set it in the slicer to "Sharpest Corner" or "Aligned" to get that with or without rotating, but I turn it for the cooling direction.
"Z-hop", "combing", "coasting" are other settings that can effect the printing and printers actions in the slicer.
A lower layer height makes for a smoother Benchy with less overhang issues but it adds to the time.