Here is my hub for general recommendations for Fused Deposition Modelling / Filament 3D printers as of 2023.

This post is meant to substitute responses for "What Printer Should I Buy?". It is HIGHLY advised you take a look at this list, and the linked posts first as your questions may be answered well before you make a new post.

Up to date as of: September 2023

Somewhat up to date as of: Early December 2023

• FDM printers are more suited for larger and functional prints, and are safer and less of a hassle to operate. Resin printers are used for smaller prints that demand high detail, such as miniatures. As I do not have experience with resin printers, I do not have a list prepared for that. Instead, check out this guy's website.
• The list is for general retail 3D printers, sold by a company that ships with all the parts together. Kit/project printers (like Voron) are not included. In addition, this list will concern itself with printers out of the box without any drastic modifications.
• I have no experience with more professional 3D printers (Ultimaker, Makerbot, etc) so they will not be on this list.
• This list is dynamic and subject to change; printers may come and go and explanations may be expanded. Prices are in USD.
• Before you read this list, you may also be interested in this spreadsheet made by the people of the 3D printing discord. This post shares some similarities in recommendations, but have nonetheless made deviations where I saw fit.
• As some others have also pointed out, I obviously do not own all of these printers myself as doing so is quite expensive. Therefore, if you have personal experience with these machines and have something to add, let me know.
• This post is outdated and is now replaced with the new one.
• Many printers these days have similar features so forgive me if I repeat a bunch of wording.
• My interest to work on these pages are waning, so some information may be out of date. I get most of my information these days a little bit late, and usually through secondary sources so it may take some time for new information to be added to these posts.

• Amazon: Some brands such as Anycubic, Elegoo, Sovol, and Prusa sell directly on Amazon, and you can buy their products there. Amazon also allows for easy returns. For other brands of printers, though, they will not have direct stores on Amazon and therefore their prices may be scalped, or you may be sent a used unit that is rebranded as new.
• Aliexpress/Banggood: These sites were generally the recommended ones to buy printers from as they had the lowest costs while still being reliable, but with many of the recommended printers being available on Amazon directly now, they no longer hold up. Only use for specific parts or more obscure models not found anywhere else.
• Direct Manufacturer: For most printers it is a bad idea to buy directly from the manufacturer/company website because you are losing a layer of customer/buyer's protection compared to buying from somewhere like Aliexpress or Amazon. They may not ship your item for a while and it can be very difficult to get a refund or return (been there), especially from Creality, Anycubic, etc. In that case, be prepared to potentially dispute any transactions. Note that some more reputable companies are safe to buy from directly, such as Prusa and Bambulab.
• Other stores to buy if you are in the USA: Tinymachines (mostly upgraded Creality), Microcenter (easier returns, mostly Creality), Fabreeko (for Vorons), PrintedSolid (for Prusa in the USA), Matterhackers (Bambu, Voron kits, and Creality)

Three important things to note:

Most of these printers here are capable of roughly the same quality. As long as they are built up to their intended configurations and pass QC, they will achieve the same print quality when printing all sorts of items. The primary difference here is that you will have to wrestle with some printers more to get said quality, while others will print perfectly right out of the box with minimal setup. Look for their other features instead.

Most of the companies here have done sketchy things. This mostly includes paying for good reviews, not properly attributing open-source material, false advertising, etc. The most egregious ones will get dealt with on this list (like Creality) but do note that most other brands on this list do similar things at varying levels.

Do not make this list the ONLY source you rely on. Although I try my best to make the entries as accurate and unbiased as possible, I am still only a single person working on all of this and I'm not even a professional engineer (yet), and there have been inaccuracies and errors that slipped through. Make sure you also consult other knowledgeable people in the hobby before making a decision costing hundreds of dollars.

If you wish to know my extent of personal bias, I lean towards Prusa while being vehemently anti-Creality. Keep this information in mind when you read my posts and any exaggerations within them.

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This is another general medium-scale FDM printer from late 2022, incorporating the now standard features of ABL, direct extruder, PEI beds, etc, but without an all-metal hotend. At a low price of $230 upon its release, it is vastly superior value to the older Neptune 2 series if extensive modding is not your concern.

It may also be worth checking out the more recent Neptune 4 models.

GOOD FOR: Medium-cost general use, ease of use, flexible filaments, little/no modding

Pros:

• Direct feed extruder
• Removable PEI bed
• Dual Z axes
• ABL sensor
• Very low price for its capabilities

Cons:

• Lacks an all-metal hotend out of the box. A disadvantage considering how many other printers these days come with one.
• Uses V-slot rollers all axes. This kind of motion system is less robust than a linear rod/rail setup.

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The SV06 is Sovol's Prusa clone, using a similar linear rod motion system and same overall layout. For its low price, this printer boasts many features that makes it a very good pick. On paper, it is probably the best general use printer around the $300 dollar mark.

Also consider the SV06 Plus, which is larger for while including a filament sensor and a volcano-style hotend, but critically has ineffective strain relief on the bed cables. The regular SV06 does not have this issue.

The successor SV07 series is not recommended as it reverts back to a non-fixed bed and V-slot rollers.

GOOD FOR: Medium-cost general use, ease of use, little/no modding, flexible filaments*, high temp (up to 300C) filaments

Pros:

• Very competitive pricing
• Direct feed extruder using planetary gears
• All-metal hotend, can print up to 300 C
• Inductive auto-levelling sensor
• Removable PEI build plate
• Dual Z axes, each connected to a separate motor, allowing for gantry levelling

Cons:

• *The extruder is apparently unreliable when working with flexible filaments
• Linear bearings may require some lubricant out of the box to ensure smooth operation.
• Lack of filament sensor

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This is the same deal as the Neptune 3 Pro from earlier, but upscaled to 320 x 320 x 400mm build volume.

GOOD FOR: General use, large prints, ease of use, flexible filaments, little/no modding

Pros:

• Direct feed extruder
• Removable PEI bed
• Dual Z axes
• ABL sensor
• Decently large print volume

Cons:

• The larger size of the machine may present some print quality issues when printing at fast speeds due to the bedslinger design
• Lacks an all-metal hotend out of the box. A disadvantage considering how many other printers these days come with one.
• Uses V-slot rollers all axes. This kind of motion system is less robust than a linear rod/rail setup.

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Prusa is a renowned 3D printer company and their Mini+ is their attempt at an affordable beginner printer. The Mini+ is small at 180 by 180 by 180 mm, but is a fairly high-quality printer that can consistently produce good prints. Combined with printing profiles already set up in the slicer, this printer is very easy to use and is a good starting printer for beginners.

However, this printer does have quite a steep price for what it is worth. If you are a beginner or want a farm of reliable printers, this is a good pick. But if you are already well-versed with printers, it is best to look elsewhere.

GOOD FOR: Ease of use, consistency, print farms, support, little/no modding, high temp filaments out of the box

Pros:

• Very easy to setup and use
• Closest you can get to stress-free
• All-metal hotend
• Reliable auto-levelling
• good customer support
• Input shaping in development

Cons:

• High price for its size
• Relatively smaller build volume
• Cantilever design
• Sometimes problematic extruder (maintenance and sometimes extrusion issues)
• Often subject to long lead times

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P1P with optional side panels installed

The Bambulab P1P is similar to the previous X1/C (a few entries below), still retaining a coreXY motion system on the same build volume, and more or less having the same frame and extruder setup. Some of the features on the X1/C were removed to lower the costs, most notably the enclosure panels, LIDAR system, and using a less advanced control interface. Nevertheless it is still a very capable printer due to its motion system allowing it to print at high speeds.

The P1P shares the same flaw as the X1/C, in that most of the hardware is proprietary and closed-source. This means that replacing parts like the extruder and nozzle with third-party replacements is not possible, and repairs/replacements will primarily come from Bambulabs themselves. These parts are usually in stock, but they are obviously not compatible with other printers, and vice versa.

Also consider the Bambulab P1S, which is around $100 more but comes fully enclosed with a few extra bells and whistles.

Bambulab printers can connect to cloud for functionality, but do understand that there are risks to this system. Critically, Bambulab printers ran into an incident likely involving the cloud system that caused many to damage themselves.

GOOD FOR: Fast printing, ease of use and setup, high-temperature filaments, flexible filaments, little/no modding, multi-color/material (with AMS)

Pros:

• CoreXY motion system allowing for fast print speeds generally
• All-metal high-flow hotend with a direct-feed extruder
• Magnetic print surface
• ABL
• Can mount a multi-material/color system (the AMS)

Cons:

• Loud
• Bambulab seems to get themselves into controversy often. This may be a given with some lesser brands but is more important for one like this.
• Proprietary hardware and closed-source, which can make third-party replacements and repairs difficult. This can be a serious issue if your printer encounters problems, so judge whether or not you are fine with being limited to Bambulab's own ecosystem of parts.

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The newest iteration of the original Prusa i3 design, the MK4 introduces many additional features that brings it up to contemporary bedslinger standards. Among the most notable is the inclusion of a new 32bit mainboard with firmware capable of running input shaper, allowing the printer to run at even higher speeds. In addition, the printer uses the "Nextruder", a similar printhead system to the XL. The sensors of the printer allows for automatic nozzle height adjustment, requiring no manual input to achieve perfect first layers, just like the XL.

The MK4 can connect to cloud for functionality, but do understand that there are risks to this system.

Pros:

• Advanced "Nextruder" design using a planetary gearbox, quick-swappable hotend, and a much better wiring experience compared to the MK3
• Nozzle is equipped with a load cell sensor allowing for ABL that does not require any manual input and has potential to do more things in the future (like jam detection)
• Includes input shaper and pressure advance, allowing it to print with good quality at decently high speeds.
• Uses 0.9 degree stepper motors for more fine movement
• The general Prusa experience: great support and official documentation, high reliability

Cons:

• Very high price
• Requires complete assembly (unless paying extra $ for preassembled version)
• Subject to lead times

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X1C with optional AMS system on top

Perhaps one of the hottest printers in recent years, the Bambu Lab X1C is a huge step up from the usual i3/Ender clones that have previously saturated the market. Bambu Lab takes a different approach with their X1C printer, opting for a CoreXY motion system, along with many other advanced features that makes it a very formidable machine. Backed by good software, it is also easy to use and can produce high-quality prints noticeably faster than a usual bedslinger.

Much like the P1P, one of the biggest concerns with the X1C is the fact that most of the hardware is proprietary and closed-source. This means that replacing parts like the extruder and nozzle with third-party replacements is not possible, and repairs/replacements will primarily come from Bambulabs themselves. These parts are usually in stock, but they are obviously not compatible with other printers, and vice versa.

Bambulab printers can connect to cloud for functionality, but do understand that there are risks to this system. Critically, Bambulab printers ran into an incident likely involving the cloud system that caused many to damage themselves.

GOOD FOR: Fast printing, ease of use and setup, high-temperature filaments requiring enclosures, abrasive filaments, flexible filaments, little/no modding, multi-color/material (with AMS)

Pros:

• CoreXY motion system, allowing for faster printing in general
• All-metal high-flow hotend with a hardened steel nozzle allowing it to print abrasives
• Enclosed, allowing it to print materials like ABS/ASA/nylon
• Direct feed extruder
• Intuitive interface and software, as well as network connection makes the printer easy and convenient to operate
• Automatic input shaping and pressure advance calculation, resulting in better print quality in general
• ABL and first-layer inspection
• Magnetic removable print surface
• Ability to mount a multi-material/color system (the AMS)
• Large auxiliary fan providing powerful cooling, especially during fast prints

Cons:

• Loud
• High upfront price
• Bambulab seems to get themselves into controversy often. This may be a given with some lesser brands but is more important for one like this.
• Proprietary hardware and closed-source, which can make third-party replacements and repairs difficult. This can be a serious issue if your printer encounters problems, so judge whether or not you are fine with being limited to Bambulab's own ecosystem of parts.

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Single-toolhead XL

The XL is Prusa's large-format printer. Running on coreXY kinematics, the machine is fitted with many features too long to list here, but includes an advanced extruder design, easy auto-levelling and calibration, as well as the potential to be expanded into a toolchanger setup with 5 seperate extruders for multi-color and multi-material printing.

The XL can connect to cloud for functionality, but do understand that there are risks to this system.

Pros:

• Large size
• CoreXY with linear rails
• Optional toolchanger allowing for 5 toolheads, great for multi-color/material printing
• Advanced "Nextruder" design using a planetary gearbox and quick-swappable hotend.
• Nozzle is equipped with a load cell sensor allowing for ABL that does not require any manual input.
• The general Prusa experience: great support and official documentation, high reliability*

Cons:

• Insanely expensive (especially if choosing toolchanger options)
• Requires partial assembly (unless extra $500 spent for preassembled)
• Subject to long lead times
• *The printer is still somewhat in development. It is not as flawlessly reliable as regular Prusa products yet.

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Previously for printers that had some sort of catch preventing me from fully recommending them, or something I didn't know much about. Now, it is mostly used for newly-released models that are yet to receive proper feedback from communities. That post is mostly kept to date, but is also fairly empty.

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Printers that were on any of the recommended lists but were removed for various reasons

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Not all printers are created equal. Some printers are more known for being faulty or poor value and should be avoided.

There may still be legitimate reasons for picking a printer on this list, but if you are looking for a first 3D printer and/or have no knowledge of them, these specific models you should be avoiding.

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Creality is probably the most well-known 3D printer manufacturer from years around 2018-2023. They have introduced multiple models, such as the Ender 3 and CR-10, that have become widely popular among the community. Unfortunately, the company has decided to ride off the success from that alone and depend on the increasing hivemind generated around Creality products.

The quality control of Creality is quite poor, with many printers shipped with defective components, or those that fail at a much higher rate than those of other brands, even cheap ones. Multiple new designs and releases of printers are disasters with many of them having design flaws or using outdated parts, such as the Ender 7 being mostly a total failure, and the Ender 2 Pro using cheap, ancient parts despite being relatively new. Keep in mind that while they are some of the worst at this, other companies are also pumping out many low quality items.

The practices of Creality have also took a downward spiral, with them attempting to pay for good reviews and requiring scripts to be approved before a review video is released by a content creator. There has also been a controversy with their Creality Cloud service, where they host tons of stolen models from many different creators without giving credit, while straight up denying and blocking those who call them out on it.

Due to their consistently terrible practices, I will no longer recommend any product from Creality under almost all circumstances. I also rescind and apologize for any recommendations of Creality products I have made in the past to the community. Previous entries on this page about certain Creality printers will remain to give a more detailed explanation for specific models.

As of 2023, avoid Creality whenever convenient.

If purchasing something other than Creality is not possible, then the Ender 3/5 S1 and V3 series and the CR-10 Smart PRO are decent options.

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Check out my wall of text on why this printer is not recommended here. The Neo series is only a relatively slight retrofit of the Original Ender 3 series, but are still too expensive to justify over competitors. In some cases, they also mess up modding compared to the original Ender 3 series, because the hotend they use has a slightly different mount.

The primary advantage of this printer is the large community, which does make upgrades and mods plentiful. Otherwise, check that link.

Note that the newer models of Ender 3 (the S1 and V3 series) fixes a lot of the issues described and can be solid options if you have nothing else.

GOOD FOR: Tinkering, community support

Pros:

• Massive community support and availability of modifications, possibly the largest of any mainstream printer.
• Very good for tinkering
• Low upfront cost if you can snatch one for $99 (Microcenter, USA)

Cons:

• Poor value for $$
• Poor quality control
• Bad stock parts, such as extruder and PTFE couplers
• I can literally expand the cons list a lot more, but that would be unfair.

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These are generally the cheapest printers you can find. As a consequence these printers are not very good at all. They suffer from many mechanical issues and print quality will be noticeably worse than that of a proper printer. They lack many features such as heated beds and part-cooling fans, as well as limited interfaces. This means they are especially bad value for their price, and spending about $50-$100 more for a proper printer will go a very long way.

GOOD FOR: Nothing worth

Pros:

• Low upfront cost
• Direct extruder for some models

Cons:

• Non-sturdy construction
• Limited interface
• No part cooling fans
• No heated bed
• Small size

The new hub for FDM/FFF printer recommendations, aimed at beginner/intermediates looking to buy a new machine.

The old list is found here.

List of Honorable Mentions

This post goes as follows:

• The intention of this post is to substitute "What printer should I buy?" questions, and potentially answer them before you even need to ask. This list should hopefully provide enough information for you to make a decision based on basic needs.
• Prices are in United States Dollars. They may vary depending on your region and availability. Note that for Amazon listings, you can manually clip a coupon on the item to bring the price down. The list accounts for prices after these coupons are applied.
• This list is dynamic and can change over time, printers may be added or removed.
• The post only covers general retail, hobbyist FDM printers. Printer kits that may require self-sourcing (Voron, RatRig) etc are not included, and higher-end professional ones like Ultimaker. This list also concerns printers as they are out of the box, without drastic modifications.
• The initial versions of these posts were inspired by the spreadsheet made by the 3D Printing Discord. They are also a good guide, but there may be some slight differences in recommendations.
• Multiple different posts exist on my user page. This one is the highest priority one and will be up-to-date the most.
• I do not own every printer on this list, therefore I may miss some things. If you have experience with any of these machines, I would appreciate if you would share your experiences to add any details or correct any mistakes on this list.
• Do not make this the only source to rely on. Buying a 3D Printer is expensive and will cost hundreds of dollars. Although I try to make my lists as unbiased as possible, mistakes and errors still slip through as I am still only a single person, and not a full engineer yet. It is highly recommended to consult other knowledgeable sources in addition to this. My personal biases lean towards Prusa, while being vehemently anti-Creality, although that has lessened these days.
• This list is created purely out of my own will and all opinions are my own. I am not sponsored/influenced by anyone or given free products to make these recommendations.

Places to buy Printers:

• Amazon: Many manufacturers like Creality, Elegoo, Sovol, and now Prusa to some extent sell their machines directly on Amazon. It is a convenient website to take advantage of Amazon Prime and their excellent return services should you need to send back a faulty device.
• Aliexpress/Banggood: These used to be the top recommended place to buy from 3D Printer brands from China, but with most of them now selling on Amazon, they are no longer the top option.
• Directly from Manufacturer: Some brands like Prusa or Bambulab you can directly buy from their storefront. Other, more lower-end brands (Creality, Anycubic, etc) come with less guarantee of customer support.
• Second-Hand: Generally not recommended to buy a used machine as your first printer, because you won't know what modifications the previous owner have done to them. If you are experienced though, then it can be worthy to fix up second-hand printers to use yourself or to sell off.
• Other places: Microcenter (USA, for Creality and Bambu), Matterhackers (same deal), PrintedSolid (Prusa in USA).

Rough Recommendations:

• I am a beginner wanting a first printer (up to $350): Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro, Sovol SV06, Bambulab A1 Mini
• I am a beginner, but willing to spend a bit more (up to $600): Bambulab A1
• I need a mid-price, large-scale printer (up to $500): Elegoo Neptune 4 Plus, Sovol SV06 Plus
• I want a high-performance printer and have a hefty budget (around $1000+): Bambulab P1S or X1C, Qidi X-plus 3 or X-max 3, Prusa MK4
• I am running multiple printers (print farm, etc): Any Prusa printer. Bambulab printers if spare parts and repair services are easily available.
• I want multi-color printing: For single-nozzle setups, Prusa MMU3 is fastest and least wasteful. Bambulab AMS Lite is more affordable and reliable. Regular AMS if you want the most colors (up to 16 possible). If you want to reduce waste, either Sovol SV04 or Prusa XL.

Current entries:

• Sovol SV06
• Bambulab A1 Mini
• Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro
• Sovol SV06 Plus
• Sovol SV04
• Bambulab A1
• Bambulab P1S
• Prusa MK4
• Bambulab X1C
• Prusa XL

Future entries:

• Starfleet Standard Issue Replicator circa 2360s

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Standard SV06

Build Volume: Medium (220 x 220 x 250 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 4.5/5

The Sovol SV06 is a low-cost clone of the venerable Prusa i3 design, more directly copying it with its layout and use of linear rods. Released in early 2023, this printer is a solid pick for anyone wanting to get into the hobby. It was especially notable upon release for combining features like direct extruder, all-metal hotend, dual Z axes, etc for a relatively cheap price, although they are standard features now on most printers. Nevertheless, its low price makes it relevant even today.

GOOD FOR: Low-cost general use, beginner printer, tinkering

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Great price to performance ratio.

Cons:

• Linear bearings may require some lubricant out of the box to ensure smooth operation.
• Somewhat weak cooling fans.
• Despite having a direct extruder, problems have been reported with printing flexible filaments.
• Lack of filament runout sensor. It cannot detect if you run out of filament mid-print and pause the print for you to refill it. A disadvantage considering many printers have filament sensors these days. An official upgrade kit containing one does exist.

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A1 Mini with AMS Lite module (right)

Build Volume: Small (180 x 180 x 180 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 5/5

The smaller, beginner-oriented printer from Bambulab. This is a small-format printer but comes with many advanced bells and whistles that gives it formidable performance for its size. In particular, the printer is very user-friendly with extensive documentation and intuitive controls making it great for beginners.

For an additional price, the printer is compatible with Bambulab's AMS Lite system (pictured), which allows the printer to use four different colors of filament in one print. Note that single-nozzle multi-material systems produce a lot of waste, as the filament must be purged in between every color change.

The A1 Mini can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

GOOD FOR: Low-cost general use, beginner printer, hassle-free experience, ease of use, multi-color printing (with AMS), high speed printing

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Very fast printing speed while maintaining quality.
• Auto-levelling does not require manual setting of nozzle Z-height offset.
• Can be controlled remotely/wirelessly out of the box.
• Can be upgraded with AMS Lite to allow for multi-color printing.
• Very user-friendly, easy to control and work with.
• Comes with a camera for remote monitoring.
• Nozzles can be easily swapped at room temperature by hand.

Cons:

• Small build volume.
• Purged filament is flung off to the side while wiping the nozzle, especially during multi-color prints. An additional system/container may be needed to collect the waste.
• The heated bed cannot exceed 80 C, meaning this printer will not be suitable for printing materials like ABS/ASA/PC which demand around ~100 C.
• Bambulab printers use proprietary components. This means that third party upgrades or replacements for certain parts are limited. You are at their mercy if something breaks down.

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Standard Neptune 4 Pro

Build Volume: Medium (225 x 225 x 265 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 3.5/5

The Neptune 4 Pro from Elegoo is an improved version of their earlier Neptune 3 Pro and Neptune 4 bedslinger printers. Coming with standard features, the Neptune 4 Pro is additionally installed with Klipper firmware. To roughly summarize, Klipper firmware allows faster printing speeds and makes it easier to configure printer settings. The Neptune 4 Pro is a decent, somewhat low-cost pick for anyone just getting into the hobby and wants a fast, medium-sized printer.

GOOD FOR: Medium-cost general use, high-speed printing, tinkering

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Fast printing speed while maintaining quality thanks to Klipper firmware
• Comes with additional auxiliary cooling fans to improve print cooling.
• Bed is divided into two heating zones (center and rest of the bed), only heating up the ones that are occupied by a print. This helps to save power costs compared to heating up the entire bed for a tiny print.

Cons:

• Uses V-rollers on the Z axis. This kind of motion system is less robust than a linear rod/rail setup.
• Loud operation if auxiliary fans are activated.
• Bed is held in place by springs instead of being fixed. This was common back then and allowed for adjustability, but is no longer needed with modern ABL systems. Instead, it now allows the bed to potentially be very heavily skewed or even unlevel itself mid-operation. ‎
• Users have reported that the firmware randomly shuts down and requires a restart mid-print.

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Standard SV06 Plus

Build Volume: Large (300 x 300 x 350 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 4.5/5

This is a similar deal to the SV06, as it is primarily an SV06 that is just scaled up. Unlike the regular SV06, the SV06 Plus comes with a filament runout sensor, a new control screen, and a high-flow hotend to enable more filament to be pushed out quickly.

GOOD FOR: Medium-cost large-scale printing, beginner printer, tinkering

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Great price to performance ratio. Probably the cheapest large-format printer that works.

Cons:

• Linear bearings may require some lubricant out of the box to ensure smooth operation.
• Somewhat weak cooling fans.
• Despite having a direct extruder, problems have been reported with printing flexible filaments.

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Standard SV04

Build Volume: Large (300 x 300 x 400 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 2.5/5

The Sovol SV04 is an interesting printer. It is the first in this list to feature multiple toolheads (complete with extruder, hotend, etc). The system on the SV04 is known as IDEX (Independent Dual EXtrusion).

This system opens some possibilities: namely it is possible to print two of the same object at once with the same, or mirrored orientation, all in the same time. The most interesting application is the ability to use multiple colors or even materials in a single print, as one extruder can be loaded with one filament and the other with another. Each extruder will take turns printing their parts.

This in turn means that filament does not have to be purged from the nozzle on every swap, which drastically reduces the waste produced compared to single-nozzle multi-material setups.

This printer however is much older than the other printers on this list, having come out in late 2021 and many of its features are dated. Therefore, only consider this printer if you are able and willing to potentially tinker with a machine.

GOOD FOR: Low-waste multi-color/material printing, large-scale printing, tinkering

Pros:

• Direct feed extruder, which allows printing of flexible filaments.
• Removable build surface, easy to remove prints after they are finished.
• ABL sensor, accounts for any error in the bed level.
• IDEX system with two independent extruders. Can print two identical objects at once, or two different filaments with heavily reduced waste.

Cons:

• Lacks all-metal hotends out of the box. A disadvantage considering how many other printers these days come with one. This means that the printer cannot safely print above ~230 C.
• Uses V-slot rollers all axes. This kind of motion system is less robust than a linear rod/rail setup.
• Build plate uses a BuildTak-style print surface. While this works, adhesion can be excessively high making prints difficult to remove, and it is much less durable compared to the common PEI print sheets on other printers.
• Bed is held in place by springs instead of being fixed. This was common for its time and allowed for adjustability, but is no longer needed with modern ABL systems. Instead, it now allows the bed to potentially be very heavily skewed or even unlevel itself mid-operation. ‎
• Multi-toolhead printers require additional calibration to ensure that each toolhead is positioned properly. The printer will ship with instructions and firmware to guide you through the process.

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Standard A1

Build Volume: Medium (256 x 256 x 256 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 5/5

This is practically the same deal as the A1 Mini, but with a larger size. It uses the same major components and is also compatible with the AMS Lite. The build plate is also compatible with their P1 and X1 series printers.

The A1 can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

GOOD FOR: Medium-cost general use, beginner printer, hassle-free experience, multi-color printing (with AMS), high speed printing, ease of use

Pros:

• Same as A1 Mini

Cons:

• Purged filament is flung off to the side while wiping the nozzle, especially during multi-color prints. An additional system/container may be needed to collect the waste.
• Bambulab printers use proprietary components. This means that third party upgrades or replacements for certain parts are limited. You are at their mercy if something breaks down.

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P1S with AMS module on top

Build Volume: Medium (256 x 256 x 256 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 5/5

The Bambulab P1 series is a watered-down version of their X1 printer. Compared to the X1, this printer loses the more advanced features like the LIDAR system, but nevertheless still remains as an excellent machine.

This is the first printer in the list to use a coreXY motion system, which to summarize, allows for faster speeds and makes the printer more space-efficient.

For an additional price, the printer is compatible with Bambulab's AMS module, which allows the printer to use four different colors of filament in one print. Note that single-nozzle multi-material systems produce a lot of waste, as the filament must be purged in between every color change.

The P1S can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

The P1P is a cheaper version of the P1S but even more stripped down, most notably lacking an enclosure. It can be upgraded to the same level of a P1S, but this is more expensive than just straight up buying a P1S in the first place.

GOOD FOR: Medium-high cost general use, beginner printer, hassle-free experience, multi-color printing (with AMS), high speed printing, ease of use, high temp (300 C), enclosed printing

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• CoreXY motion system. Usually faster and more space-efficient, this is a more desirable setup in most cases.
• Very fast printing speed while maintaining quality.
• Auto-levelling does not require manual setting of nozzle Z-height offset.
• Can be controlled remotely/wirelessly out of the box.
• Comes with a camera for remote monitoring.
• Can be upgraded with AMS to allow for multi-color printing.
• Fairly user-friendly, easy to control and work with.
• Fully-enclosed, allowing printing of certain filaments like ABS/ASA.
• Large auxiliary fan allows for additional cooling of prints.

Cons:

• Purged filament is dropped out from behind while wiping the nozzle, especially during multi-color prints. An additional system/container may be needed to collect the waste.
• The main control screen is a lot more limited compared to other Bambulab printers and even other brands which hurts the usability.
• Swapping out the nozzle/hotend requires the use of consumables (thermal grease).
• Bambulab printers use proprietary components. This means that third party upgrades or replacements for certain parts are limited. You are at their mercy if something breaks down.

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Standard MK4

Build Volume: Medium (250 x 210 x 220 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 3/5

The Prusa MK4 is the newest iteration of the venerable Prusa i3 design. Compared to the older models, the MK4 is built off a similar frame, but includes many new features that emphasize ease of use and high-speed printing. The printer can achieve higher print quality thanks to its innovative "Nextruder" which it shares with the larger Prusa XL.

If desired, the MMU3 module can be added to the printer which enables multi-color printing with up to five separate filaments. As it is a single-nozzle multi-material system, a lot of waste will be produced.

The MK4 can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

GOOD FOR: High cost general use, high speed printing, ease of use, silent printing, hassle-free experience, multi-color printing (with MMU3)

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Fast printing speed while maintaining quality.
• 0.9 degree stepper motors, higher resolution than the 1.8 degree that are commonly used.
• Auto-levelling does not require manual setting of nozzle Z-height offset.
• Can be controlled remotely/wirelessly out of the box.
• Can be upgraded with MMU3 unit to allow for multi-color printing.
• Very user-friendly, easy to control and work with.
• Relatively silent operation, much quieter than other printers (especially the fans).
• Nozzles can be easily swapped at room temperature (with assistance of tools)
• The general Prusa experience: great support and official documentation, high reliability

Cons:

• High cost.
• Requires complete assembly, unless paying extra for a pre-assembled machine. The assembly is not trivial.
• Uses PETG printed parts. They will be completely fine for regular use and most enclosures, but can present a problem for especially spicy ones.
• Camera support is a lot more limited compared to other printers of similar price range.
• Difficult/unintuitive belt tensioning (requires flipping the printer over to tension Y axis). Can be mitigated with printed upgrades. ‎ ‎ ‎

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X1C with AMS module on top

Build Volume: Medium (256 x 256 x 256 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 3.5/5

Unleashed in mid-2022, the Bambulab X1 and X1C were a major step-up from the low quality Ender 3 clones that previously saturated the market, finally giving a good wakeup call to most other brands. The X1C is a coreXY, fully enclosed printer that is capable of very fast print speeds with automatic calibration, using sensors such as an accelerometer and advanced LIDAR sensor that is capable of detecting if a first layer has gone awry.

Additional advantages include a fully enclosed frame, which is important for filaments that best print in an enclosure (ABS, ASA, Nylon, etc). It also includes a hardened steel nozzle by default, which allows it to print composite materials like (carbon fiber) without wear.

Like the P1S, the X1C is compatible with the same AMS module for multi-color printing.

The X1C can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

GOOD FOR: Very high cost general use, multi-color printing (with AMS), high speed printing, hassle-free experience, ease of use, high temp (300 C), abrasive filaments, enclosed printing

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• CoreXY motion system. Usually faster and more space-efficient, this is a more desirable setup in most cases.
• Very fast printing speed while maintaining quality.
• Fully-enclosed, allowing printing of certain filaments like ABS/ASA.
• Large auxiliary fan allows for additional cooling of prints.
• Hardened steel nozzle by default, can print composite materials.
• Auto-levelling does not require manual setting of nozzle Z-height offset.
• Can be controlled remotely/wirelessly out of the box.
• Comes with a camera for remote monitoring.
• Can be upgraded with AMS to allow for multi-color printing.
• Very user-friendly, easy to control and work with.

Cons:

• Very high upfront cost (More expensive than P1S+AMS combined).
• Purged filament is dropped out from behind while wiping the nozzle, especially during multi-color prints. An additional system/container may be needed to collect the waste.
• Swapping out the nozzle/hotend requires the use of consumables (thermal grease).
• Bambulab printers use proprietary components. This means that third party upgrades or replacements for certain parts are limited. You are at their mercy if something breaks down.‎ ‎ ‎

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Prusa XL with 5 toolheads

Build Volume: Large (360 x 360 x 360 mm)

Subjective Price/Performance Ratio: 3/5

The ultimate large-format coreXY from Prusa, the XL is a massive printer fitted with many of the same advanced features of the MK4, and some more.

The most impressive feature of the XL is the ability to add up to five separate toolheads to the printer. The printer can swap to use any of them almost immediately and switch between them mid-print. This allows for multi-color and true multi-material printing like the previous entries, but is a much more efficient system than single-nozzle multi-color setups (less waste resulted).

A single toolhead version of the printer is available, as well as options for two or the full five toolhead setup. The price will increase with each additional toolhead, but an upgrade path is always available to add the remaining toolheads.

The XL can be connected wirelessly via local network or cloud, but do note that there are risks when using a cloud service.

GOOD FOR: Very high cost general use, large-scale printing, low-waste multi-color printing (with toolchanger), high speed printing, ease of use, silent printing, high temp (300 C), enclosed printing (with upcoming enclosure addon)

Pros:

• Standard contemporary printer features (Direct feed extruder, all-metal hotend, auto-levelling sensor, removable build surface).
• Fast printing speed while maintaining quality.
• CoreXY motion system. Usually faster and more space-efficient, this is a more desirable setup in most cases.
• Auto-levelling does not require manual setting of nozzle Z-height offset.
• Can be controlled remotely/wirelessly out of the box.
• Up to five independent toolheads can be mounted, allowing for multi-color/material printing with less waste than conventional systems.
• Bed is divided into sixteen heating zones, only heating up the ones that are occupied by a print. This helps to save power costs compared to heating up the entire massive bed for a tiny print.
• Very user-friendly, easy to control and work with.
• Relatively silent operation, much quieter than other printers.
• The general Prusa experience: great support and official documentation, high reliability

Cons:

• Insane cost, especially for the 5-toolhead version.
• Requires partial assembly, unless paying extra for a pre-assembled machine.
• Uses PETG printed parts. They will be completely fine for regular use and most enclosures, but can present a problem for especially spicy ones.
• Camera support is a lot more limited compared to other printers of similar price range.
• Multi-toolhead printers require additional calibration and maintenance to ensure that each toolhead is positioned properly and that they can be properly picked up and docked. Documentation will be provided to assist.

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