My experience with the canyon is sand get everywhere no matter what you do. My first trip in 2013 I brought a Canon eos M and shot video. Second trip in 2019 I brought two fujifilm cameras and only shot photos. The big threat you’ll face is the times when you open the housing to change batteries or cards. no matter what you do you’ll find sand in your gear for years. Also, I’m a little concerned about overheating for you too but I suppose you can dunk it in the water to keep it cool while filming in the housing. My advice is to bring a pelican case so you can have quick access to the camera to film without the housing as often as possible. My general gear advice is only bring gear you are willing to sacrifice to the river. It’s a rowdy trip and nothing is guaranteed down there. For the same reason, change cards often and keep footage in different places around your kit.

Shoot often but don’t forget to just be there. The canyon is a special place and it deserves your undivided attention.

Generally it’s not the way we see the world. It’s used to give the viewer a sense of disorientation or tension like you said and for that reason it’s obviously going to be less appealing to many viewers. In the case of dynamic movement, or energy, it’s still mixing in that uneasy feeling. In a way It’s the same as using extreme high or low angles, you need a good reason to have such an unrelatable perspective.

For podcast style I assume you’ll be indoors together with other people. A large diaphram dynamic mic like your 2040 (or shure sm7b or electro voice re-20 or earthworks ethos) is best for that use, to isolate each voice. A small diaphragm condenser mic is going to pick up all voices in the room and increase the level of reverb in the space. Even in a heavily treated space, it’s going to be more “roomy” in the final mix and that’s not traditionally podcast style. It’s ok to break the norm though I suppose. I would recommend considering pencil condenser mic option like the MKH 50 for indoor spaces. If you choose to go with shotgun mics, check out MKH 416 for a classic sound. I personally love the dpa 2017 shotgun. If you need to keep budget lower, mke 600 is not bad. All gear aside, with audio, proximity to the microphone will always be your friend. Shotgun mics are not magic, you’ll still want to keep it close for the best quality sound.

Making penis size jokes is body shaming. It should not be as acceptable as it is.

TLDR: it’s close and both are good for different reasons but MKE 600 would be my choice.

I own both, you can do good work with either. I find the 600 comes in hand more often because it’s a tad muddy at times but that’s easier to clean up than the brittle nature of the 875r. I also do like the AA battery option on the 600. I have used it on some mirrorless rigs for on-camera audio. Nowadays I keep my 875r on my b-cam (Sony fx6) or c-cam (fx3 with audio handle) because it’s still fine for nat sound and I like the smaller size. Primary mic is now a dpa 2017 (lives in a-cam and comes off for outdoor boomed interviews) and if I need a second boom and can’t use mkh 8050 for some reason, I’ll use the 600 before I boom the 875r.

The Tilta top-plate should come with a pair of 15mm rod clamps. (These: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1633918-REG) not sure if either kit shops with 15mm rails though. I use a pair of 3” rails. I bought the full cage kit all together and I think the full kit does come with rails but it’s worth checking.

Yes I always run the stock handle with my setup. I’m a fan of the handle and always shoot with audio so I need to run it.

I can see that style in this. I think that you did a great job hitting your mark. That’s a great mark to aim for too considering the similar dry humor.

I love these frames. All have a natural grit but still clean “gentle touch” of lighting and well composed. I also think these guys are hilarious. Keep up the great work and you’ll go places for sure.

Tilta cage is great. I’ve run it for a few years now. I use the v-mount plate v2 so it plugs into 19v power plug and you can keep another bp-u battery in the body for backup. I’ve used the Atomos ninja and Shinobi SDI monitors for a long time. Recently switched to the Hollyland Mars M1 enhanced for the option to transmit and I love it so far. I expected to like a 7” monitor on camera but for fx6 it’s a bit much. I think 5” monitor is best but it’s up to you. I use Watson v mount batteries. They treat me well. A 98WH battery runs between 2-3 hours. Standard operation, I usually use 2 or 3 batteries a day. I like the v-mount because I like resting the flat back of the battery against my shoulder often. If that’s not your operating style, the idx bp-u 98WH battery is great. You can plug your monitor right into that. I use these when I need to hike a long way and want to skip the cage to save weight in my bag.

Something I’ve done which helped a lot in a similar situation was to build a small “room” with blankets and cloth. I actually set up four stands with two crossbars and put sound blankets on two sides and draped a background cloth over the top as a roof. It sounds like you have setup time, may be worth it to reduce reverb and might even help shield from some rain noise.

XAVC-I is intra-frame and is 10bit 4:2:2 and XAVC-L is Long-GOP and is 8bit 4:2:0. No mixing and matching so that’s what you get. You’ll be very happy with the results in XAVC-L unless you’re pushing the color grade really far or have dramatic color gradients that need grading. I shoot L most of the time and haven’t had any issues.

It’s intra*-frame

The biggest I use is 150wh but I'm confident a 210 would be supported by this plate. It feels really sturdy.

Disc Drill was the software that saved me when I did this years ago. Well worth the $100