Thank you!! Sorry I don’t get on much but I do keep up with the replies when I can

So in essence, if I have a charge controller drawing from the car like a 12v outlet (higher output obv) and one from solar, could both be charging a bus of the batteries with no issue?

Question about solar charging in conjunction with charging from alternator supplied power while driving. Feel like I’m overthinking it… post goes into more detail

My internet has been out and I haven’t had the motivation to give it a try, but soon as I have some time to game again I’ll have to experiment for sure

If you have a TE on-hand I’m sure someone could help with exporting or ‘backing up’ the OS so it could be redistributed. Nothing about the TE is technically restricted aside from the software the end-user installs, but the actual OS itself seems to be completely legal just not on the market

Very interesting! Sorry for the long wait, I’ll have to give this a try at some point. I don’t remember my keybind names but I could see why that would have an affect, maybe limiting total profile size by limiting all the names to a number of characters can help eliminate the issue?

The lights flickering I don’t think has to do with a certain component issue as much as it does software/firmware and compatibility. This HOTAS was designed ages ago and has had essentially 0 support since Logitech took over. It could be related in that the drivers arent controlling it correctly, but I don’t think the flicker itself is tied to the reset issue directly.

I am very curious about the keybind name thing though, it makes a lot of sense

This is a fix for using the profiler. For games like Elite: Dangerous you benefit a lot from not only having remapped buttons, but mainly being able to use the stick mode switch to essentially triple your number of inputs. I currently use mine to have separate inputs for normal flight, landing, and surface vehicle controls.

If you play other games that have tons of inputs, you can use the same mapping to give you a lot more input without buying anymore hardware, and it also helps with VR cause your hands don’t need to leave the HOTAS. It’s a great concept, it just got abandoned with time and I believe the drivers and/or profiling software stopped being updated to work with modern computers which results in some sort of timeout error with the stick. When it times out, it will drop power/lights and reset itself, resulting in your zero for the stick being reset to whatever position it is currently in. Mid-flight if it does this while you are banking or something, it can get really screwy and the only fix is to unplug the stick and plug it back in while it is level

u/flairtracker u/juicypineapple1775

Sending a chat

the ender3 pro firmware is working so far... Bruh I don't have a pro, but I guess it makes sense since I upgraded my mainboard?

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I'll be contacting creality. smh.

gonna try the ender3 pro version. I don't see how it would make a difference but I am praying...

Gotcha.. frustrating indeed. I have a hard time believing I’m the only one with this issue, my setup is pretty basic. What’re the chances I wired the x/y backwards physically..? That would require wiring the stops wrong too never mind…

Wtf is going on! Ugh

But yeah. Not fun when my mesh is applied opposite. If I throw a penny under the probe I can see it register in the mesh, but it manifests in the opposite corner when printing. So wack.

Ive done this again, can confirm it’s still doing it ;-; I see a lot of forum threads from around 2016-2018 of people having the same issue but nobody ever posts a “how to fix” it’s like the threads died. I saw one person talking about changing the pin-outs in firmware, but I have no idea how to do that and I’m getting to the pull my hair out stage

sorry for spam, pls read latest comment to my op

for some reason can't edit my post but

I THINK I KNOW WHAT'S WRONG

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I did a BUNCH of googling and tinkereing, I believe my mesh is being applied inverted meaning it's assuming left (or right?) handed coordinates for the mesh generation and correcting for my bed BACKWORDS

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How did I confirm this? I cranked my bed leveling knobs on one side and it corrected backwards when I ran G29

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Now I humbly ask, because I cannot find info on this for the life of me, can somebody explain to me like I'm 5 how exactly I can changed the 'handedness' of my mesh? I don't know how to change the config or any of that, I just got pronterface and push buttons. Pls... Someone help me...

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marlin 2.0.28

ender 3 with 4.2.7 board

CRTouch with the current firmware HW4.2.7_SW2.0.8.28 (no filament sensor)

I was busy so it took some time, but it seems like this didn't do the trick. I commented the G29 mesh output on my post if you want to see that, not sure if it'll make a huge difference but yknow.

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Thanks!

I didn't add this before, but this is my report after running G29

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>>> g29

SENDING:G29

Bilinear Leveling Grid:

0 1 2 3

0 +0.951 +0.628 +0.335 +0.082

1 +0.620 +0.327 +0.049 -0.187

2 +0.262 +0.002 -0.233 -0.410

3 -0.117 -0.368 -0.572 -0.712

echo:Settings Stored (699 bytes; crc 52294)

I’ll give it a go and let you know, thanks!

I know this is an old post... But with the advent of 3d printed guns and what we've seen in handguns and the Orca ar-15, What's stopping this?

A ton of these commenters are talking about rigidity, but most off the shelf hunting rifles are mono-polymer stocks. If you print a stock (or at least the chassis) in CF nylon, anneal it while throwing on some cerakote (same curing temp as CF nylon annealing temp 0.0 ) Why not???

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I can understand maybe adding material to reinforce it, but matterhackers advertises their CF nylon being used as trucks on a skateboard. Nylon does just fine with compression, it and PLA(+) are used to great success in other firearms, I think it's doable. The only real limitation I see is that it may max out on the recoil impulse with 308, but a 6.5cm should work imho.

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If someone decent with blender can throw together a model for a mossberg MVP or Patriot (223/300b mvp, 308 patriot) I will happily test it. I'm terrible with blender and such. Honestly tho, I'm good enough that if you put together a model of the action I could use as a 'negative' to erase from another stock online to make it compatible, I'll do that too. Not gonna make claims about accuracy and such, but functionally I think a FDM nylon chassis (full stock at least) is totally doable. Beyond reasonable. I'd want to see some evidence to the contrary other than MDT is milled aluminum so therefor it must be metalic. That's phoey if you ask me.

I'm at minimum a mild prepper, and I like to LARP. Non shame. Also I have a thing for old tech, it makes more sense to me and it's fun. Analogue encryption is something I can tinker with and feel like I understand a lot better than a lot of the commercial stuff out there, that's mainly it. I could argue 'simplicity is king' or ' more parts more points of failure' but it's electronics, not locks or machines, so eh... If I had to supply someone with equipment and teach them how to use it, and if I want to use something uncommon and therefore less likely to be easily defeated by complex 'adversaries' (larping) I feel more comfortable with janky analogue encryption. Still in use today by many militaries too, so surely it holds some merit.

Oh snap! That’s crazy, sounds like I’m just really unlucky hahaha, thanks for the help though!

I don’t use it currently either. It’s a nice to have for sure, and the reason I want to use both is cause the audio splitting with monaural means I can differentiate between the radios really easily. No use case right now, but I figure if I run ATAK alongside like a baofeng or if I come across some used digitals it would be nice.