Ender 3

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what are the best upgrades to increase my printing quality and speed for my stock ender 3? (budget around 200-300 dollars)

Pretty much as the title says, I’ve been using it since Christmas and about one in every 8 prints actually print which is annoying any help would be great. (If you could share G-Code that would be great too!)

Hej, just a short explaination why an Accelerometer ups my Game. I bought a cheap usb adxl online at the cheaper of the two big online warehouses with a. For weaks it was laying around for a not nearer explained reason.We call it layziness.(just for example...you know). i gave it a try, installed everything, meassured the resonances and did my first print . Holy moly, i am blasted, but not regarding print quality. That is quite better but was good before. I am blasted regarding noise! Before, at higher speeds my printer sounded like an epileptic jackhammer on speed, now it Sounds actually like a printer! And thats the main reason it was worth it!

Hello there. I'm the proud owner of a 1YO ender 3 v1, and have been obsessed about it since I got it. It's really satisfying to be able to create things out of nothing but a spool of filament.

Anyway... So far I got myself a few mods such as a generic BL touch, silicone spacers for the heatbed and a Satsana cooling duct. Right now I'm also printing belt tensioners and a drawer to optimize space.

One thing that I really thing that could improve is the printing speed. Anytime I tried to print something faster than 50-60 mm/s, my prints would end up awful, riddled with underextrusion and delamination on the outer walls. Therefore I ask what are some recommended (and cheap if possible, LATAM) upgrades that I could do on my printer in order to print faster?

I've done some research about it but couldn't really come to a conclusion as to what would get me to print faster. Maybe using Klipper instead of marlin, getting a better hotend, converting to direct drive, using linear rails and getting an all-metal extruder kit... It's just overwhelming to look at all of it.

BTW I tried upgrading my extruder to an all-metal one when I first got my printer, but couldn't do it because the extruder stepper motor shaft wasn't compatible with the improved gear. In the end I just returned it.

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The bottom of the boat was hard stuck to the build plate that i couldn't put it down, but overall the layers don't adhere to each other and have quite a bit gaps in between, its brittle i can easily just break it. can aby body help please? Added photos of the boat and motion parameters because i accidentally changed one of them because I tried to move the bed to level it and don't know what parameters they were on. Thank you.

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As the title says I had a hotend leak.

History:

1. It started with a broken extruder arm (weak og plastic one)
2. Replaced by an alu one given by a friend, but it was left-handed instead of right-handed so I had the extruder motor pins reversed. It worked but I think it somehow forked up the motor as it was beginning to make clicking sounds.
3. I got a new extruder with the right chirality, put the pins back the way they were. Motor was sitll clicking, so I replaced it to be sure.
4. It worked well for a bit, but I remember now that I hadn't recalibrated the e-steps (back to that later).
5. Not sure if this is linked to the prior, or from trying a new brand of filament, but the extruder started grinding instead of pushing. I changed the nozzle to exclude that as a problem, but found out that the filament was stuck in the bowden tube. I couldn't even pull it with pliers even after dis-assmebling it and cutting it.
6. New bowden tube was installed. Did a few good prints with my usual brand of filaments.

Today I started a print, again with my "classic filament" and started noticing blobs, to find out it came from the pictured leak. I did a bit of clean up, I changed the nozzle again, recalibrated the e-steps. I also noticed the 2 screws that link the heat block to the heatsink.

But the blobs keep appearing. Beyond the effect on print quality the blobs sometimes make the X stage skip a step and the print has these offsets layers.

• It this fixable with a more thorough clean up of the hot end, or do I just need a new one?
• Could this be attributed to overfeeding (not recalibrating the e-steps, knowing that the sifference was about 5%) or is there something else I need to fix to avoid future problems?

I am making a power armor helmet and all the pieces have printed perfectly except one. There is one piece that has seemingly had its height setting adjusted from the original model despite not doing anything to it in the slicer that would cause this. I have tried twice and both times had the same result. When i load the pieces that have worked along with this piece into cura to check how it should look, they line up, but when i print the piece without changing anything, the height is shortened by about 92% the original scale.

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I didn't mention this in the video, but this has happened before. I was gifted this printer by someone who didn't need it anymore. When I had first reassembled it at my location, it had this same problem. After a few days of finagling, it randomly started working. I think it was after trying to mess with the connections. (like i've been doing.

Looking for an E3V2 fan duct mod that is compatible with the sprite direct feed extruder and CR Touch.

I don't have any extra vans, but could buy some if it is a big upgrade.

I just replaced my hotend on my Ender 3 Neo, and when I try to auto home, I get an error saying "Endstop p" and I can't move the Z axis down, only up. I don’t think anything is wrong with the motherboard or the motor, because I switched the cables around and it worked fine. If anyone can help that would be great because I really want to start printing again