Yeah other fish really don't know what to make off the feelers. When I put my three spot in with my rainbowfish the rainbows went from curious to absolutely freaked out the moment she used her feelers on them.

Sometimes animals or even humans with huge medical problems can survive development but end up dying once they get born because the problems are just too big to survive outside an egg or womb.

Stuff like this just happens. Sometimes not even an easily to determine gentic cause.

But mutations do happen and when they happen in important genes it can be disasterious. It's even possible for whole pieces off chromesomes to be deleted or translocated (switched to a wrong chromosome) and damaging a gene or a group off genes.

I have their sturdier cousins, bichirs. Also lovely fish but more off a risk they will eat another fish compared to a rope fish. But the advantage is that bichirs aren't as likely to escape as a rope fish.

If you like these types off fish it might be worth looking into dragon gobies. They look like mean predators but typically leave other fish alone even though they technically would be able to eat them.

Shrimp is risky with a betta. Some don't care and others think it's an all you can eat buffet.

In a simular sized aquarium I have had both kuhli's and cories with betta and didn't have any problem. I also have kept schooling fish like lambchop rasbora and cardinal tetra's with betta's. Multiple off my betta did even live peacefully together with platies, but I did notice that with some betta no platy fry would survive.

Another tip is to add the betta as last. That way he won't feel like he has to protect his territory against intruders.

I love me some Forest Gump reference so I am going to sugest Bubba for the shrimp.

If you want plants but are on a budget get species that spread and multiply easily or one that grows big. That way you only have to buy a few plants and with time you will end up with a heavily planted aquarium.

For example valisneria and hornworth grow verry quickely so you can start with little while plants like an amazon sword or a tiger lotus grow big so one plant already fills a lot off space. Floating plants are another option that allows you to start on a budget.

Might be some kind off banjo catfish.

The problem stocking wise with your aquarium is that it's an awkward shape. Most fish need horizontal space, not vertical. Some sources will rather than gallons give you dimensions to determine what a species need. A 10 gallon that's a shallow scaper tank has more options for species than a 10 gal cube even though total stocking level should be the same.

Just a quick google for me has most sites recommend sherry barbs have a 20 gallon. The noticable one that I did come across that says 10 is aquarium co-op and as much as he often give good advise I have seen him give some verry questionable min requirements for some species.

We use a homemade python like system on the tanks downstairs (450L/120gal and 2x 110L/29gal).

The 40L/12gal upstairs gets waterchanged by using a 1L measuring cup and a bucket.

You can either feed both at the same time or switch the foods every feeding.

Normally you can see some fall past the tetra's. If it reaches the bottom the cories will find it, in my experience cardinals don't go for food that's at the bottom. If in doubt you could get sinking pellets for small catfish, they are bigger than normal food and will defnitely reach the bottom.

For the most part they should eat the same stuff. Tetra's will likely take the food at the surface or while it's sinking so make sure some reaches the cories. If you notice that the cories aren't getting food you should by sinking pellets that are too big for the tetra's.

I would go with the black sand. White sand does show dirt really well and sometimes algae will start growing on the sand.

I do sugest that whatever you go with you occasionally stir it up once it's in the aquarium. Sometimes gasses will build up in sand.

Onesided popeye is usually because off an injury. With clean water it should heal on it's own. But if the water is dirty or the fish has a weak immunesytem it can become infected.

With the exception off certain species a pH around 8 is fine. Some fish like rainbows and livebearers even prefer it.

If you plan to keep fancy shrimp or something else sensitive it might be worth looking into using reverse osmosis water. By mixing RO water and your tapwater you could lower it to wathever pH and hardness you want.

Something that's at least 5feet long and 18 inch wide. I used to have an adult oscar and don't think they permanently belong in a 55gal (likely 4feet) but it's a good grow out size.

Do you know where the gibbiceps were collected? This might narrow down the potential species.

Adding water would do verry little since the water itself barely contains any off the needed bacteria. If you want to speed up the cycling you can use some media from the turtle tank in the new filter or squeze out one off the turtles sponges into the new filter.

Some oscars love a terracotta pot or something simular as a hide.

Any stones or driftwood you add should have no sharp edges. It also should be placed in a stable position and be heavy enough that the oscar can't move it. Don't go overboard with it an oscar needs space to move and eventually the 55gal will be small as is. Too much scape also adds the risk off them swimming into it if they get spooked.

Sand is probably the best for them. They love to dig in it.

Plants depends on the oscar. Some don't tolerate it at all. Others can live with tough plants like anubias and java fern that can take an ocasional nip and aren't substrate plants. While the exceptions have more fragile plants like amazon swords in their tank. Some people claim you have better success to keep them with plants if you get a babby instead off an (almost) adult.

Since that 72 gallon is too small anywayn if you really want tankmates with the red devil your best bet is to get a bigger aquarium. Get the other fish and then introduce the red devil as last.

10 gallon is great. Betta don't need a high waterlevel so if you want the fish to have as much space as possible but don't want to increase the volume look into aquariums that have more floorspace but aren't as high. Some scaper type aquariums are like that.

With silver dollars you are going to want something that's 1.2m/4feet long or bigger since they are verry active, personally I would be leaning more towards 1.5m/5feet long. In that bigger setup you would be able to up their numbers to get a true shool going.

Be warned that if you plan to add plants it can be hard with silver dollars. They naturally are plant eaters so it can be hard to find aquarium plants that they won't touch. Sometimes even anubias and java fern will be eaten. They are even known to try and eat fake plants.