Looks like it's a TP9 RBS manufactured by B&T Suppressors

I ordered one from Silencer shop on 5/13 and certified yesterday. Took about a week for form 3 approval and another week for shipping.

Amped Airsoft sells them

Personally, I'll just use AlphaCool, Watercool/heatkiller, Aqua Labs, and Hardware labs just like before. EK hasn't had quality/performance crown for a long time.

It's very soft by comparison and not very wear resistant in the application. I print primarily normal filament but use abrasive mixtures for some parts (PA-CF/GF) so the first thing I did was grab a hardened steel extruder gear.

Looks like something that will clean off, but I imagine it will require opening the res(or distro)/blocks and wiping it.

Read the title, it's a stand FOR the water bowl. Not a printed bowl

Thanks for the heads up, I'll keep an eye out for updates

Is the Printables page for this up to date? If not, are you planning on updating it here soon? I'd love to start on this project

They look pretty simple. I would clean up the plungers and channels for them, check o-rings, and lube them. If there are any ball bearings, make sure they're all in place and are still round.

I bet if you cleaned up and lubed the plungers, it'll work again. It looks like debris could work its way in

I don't want my tax dollars supporting either of them. They've been at war the entirety of their existence. Let them figure it out. It's not the United States place to act as world police.

Air rifles can get up there in caliber too, they make .457 and even .50 slug

It's costs nothing to not put your hand on the blade

I haven't printed normal nylon, but I had to crank the bed temp for the PA-GF I used to keep it on the bed. I'd turn it up the bed temp and try that

Not a full size one you're probably thinking of. I would use a rotary/demolition hammer. They're much smaller (hand held) than a full size jackhammer

From the pictures on their website I feel confident in saying the black bracket for attaching the block is the aluminum part. Should be fine, a lot of blocks use aluminum for the brackets

Was just looking at those the other day and the fit & finish is the same as the Pelican case I own. Difference being the Pelican is 3-4x more

I bought one of the Comgrow boxes about 6 months ago and it worked fine for a while. After about 50-60 hours of use (total) the power brick for it caught fire. I recommend buying a separate 12V power brick if you purchase the Comgrow one.

I've been using a heatkiller res for years (with default top and multi-port) and I've never once had an issue. I pressure test before I fill and it has held just fine every time.

Amazon

You could remove that section of plywood if you wanted to, but it's likely nailed down well. I would either just cut away what's needed to make room or drill a hole.

No. The Octo has 8 individually controllable PWM headers, it's not a splitter. Using 3 of them you would be able to control 24 headers individually.

Please be careful with that dry box, I had the exact one and after about 50 hours of use the included power brick caught on fire.

For sure. I just felt there should be further clarification since you grouped them all together, and the Nylons have very different requirements than PEEK/PEKK for printing

Bruh you're only talking about one of those filaments in your comment. The other 3 are Nylons which all require like 260-290C Nozzle, 80-100 bed, and a heated chamber. PEEK was the only filament listed that's crazy. It's also like 7-8x the cost/kg