Tighten 1/2 turn and try again.
But, I have found that mine (when it was new) was layer shifting Y when printing the 22min benchy. Belt was not the issue for me. I set the current from the 800 to 1100 and the 22min benchy came out as good as it was going to get.
I say that because I am not using mine anymore.
I have already replaced my mainboard with a BTT SKR 3.
Contact Anycubic and see about a mainboard replacement.
If the mainboard is the same as the Kobra Max, you can have mine.
Maybe the driver on the main board is overheating? Is the fan for the controller working?
I have a Kobra Max. All was good until I tried the 22 min Benchy.
The Y was slipping like mad.
I upped the current and the 22min Benchy printed without layer shifting.
Input shaping can cause it due to the constant back and forth extruder movements.
Increase the Y stepper current by 100.
M906
That will report current mA settings.
If Y = 900, set it to 1000 with:
M906 Y1000
M500 to save settings.
I don't believe the steppers can handle more than 1200mA.
I use Octoeverywhere with Octoapp on Android.
This Klipper thing is great, I now have everything tuned really nice.
I had to do a little skew correction to help making the starship and booster stand up straight after all the pieces are printed.
I used a different mosfet board.
The small wires come from the heater out of the SKR and to the MOSFET board. They are the control wires for the heaters MOSFET (hi Amp electronic transistor (a relay, of sorts)).
So, I tried getting a 24 LED Neopixel LED ring working as a second set of LEDs.
Marlin was working, but I found that it wouldn't show consistant colors. Just heating the hotend would look like a disco ball of lights.
I got a 3-conductor shielded cable and that did the trick of switching and holding any color shade that I wanted.
Now, Marlin is having issues with controlling these the way I wanted to.
I gave Klipper a try. First time Klipper user and I am hooked!
The Neopixels were very easy to setup and just......WORK!
Klipper is so nice. Reconfigure just about ANYTHING and all it takes is a restart of the Klipper program. Ended the days of recompiling at every little change.
Got an accelerometer and got input shaping tuned along with pressure advance. This is one nice system and it prints truer and faster than before.
Macros are a BEAST!!
I beg to differ.
Post processing pause at layer # inserts a line that causes Klipper to stop my print.
G92 E1234.5736 (number changes based previous E value)
There is no good reason for it that I can tell.
I changed my copy of the pauseatlayer.py on several lines:
prepend_gcode += self.putvalue(m = 84, e = current_e) + "\n"
To
prepend_gcode += self.putvalue(m = 84, e = 0) + "\n"
That fixed my issue and now it only inserts "G92 E0"
Than you everyone for the support!
They say it needs to be 2.3 - 4.3mm from the nozzle and no higher than 6.6mm from the bed.
Are you doing okay? Haven't heard any more updates from you.
The bowden tube had plugged up. Got that replaced and all is good again.
I have now got this printer printing stuff.
Using UBL bed leveling with the BLTouch.
BLTouch is now the Z endstop.
Enabled sensorless homing for X and Y. The limit switches are not used now.
It is printing very nice atm.
I still need to experiment with input shaping. It is currently not enabled.
Printing PETG with no issues.
Got the TFT mounted.
I had some help with some issues with the Marlin setup. The Marlin community is not quite what it used to be, but they are still a great help.
I still have some work to do to the cable chains I am using.
I used Anycubic Vyper BL Touch Mount
I used his Version 3
I used some longer screws for it. It mounts with the lower cover screws.
The BL Touch will not work natively. Have to run wires for it.
I got F1 working. Apparenly, these fans are diode protected and work just like LEDs. Work or don't work. I would have expected them to run backwards. I chanced my tail on this one. Lol
Got some brackets whipped up and got the LED strip mounted.
Got BLTouch tested and working. Got the probe offsets set. Had to do a home offset also to get the nozzle to the bed for printing.
Got Bed PID tuned.
Got Hotend tuned, although, now I need a new heatbreak due to the first PID autotune I did, I didn't realize the fan wasn't working. Plugged it up.
Got UBL 10x10 mesh probed, saved, and plotted.
Not a problem. It is not a well organized documentaion project, but it is more than I have seen myself.
- Fan1 is not working. -- Corrected
- Dress up wiring for the filament runout sensor. -- Done
- Design, print, install the Neopixel strip mounts for the top of the printer. -- Done
- Dress up wiring for the Neopixel strip. -- Done
- Perform a test print. -- Done
Got the extruder motor tested and working.
I did have to fabricate a toolhead PCB for the devices to be easily removeable / replaceable.
Got the new BTT smart filament sensor bracket whipped up and printed (on my other printer) and is now mounted and functional.
Found and printed a mount for the BLTouch.
Everything homes just fine.
Got the Probe (BLTouch) offsets calibrated. I may redesign this BLTouch mount to get the sensor closer to the nozzle.
Todo:
- Fan1 is not working. (Fixed - I had it wired backwards)
- Dress up wiring for the filament runout sensor. (Done)
- Design, print, install the Neopixel strip mounts for the top of the printer. (Done)
- Dress up wiring for the Neopixel strip. (Done)
- Perform a test print. (Done)
The stepper driver current. Mine was set for 800mA.
I set it to 1100mA. Max is 1200mA.
For the Y axis. My Kmax needed it to sling that big bed that fast without skipping steps.
What the hell?
anycubic