Can anyone help me work out a baseboard angles issue? I'm losing my mind
HelpIt's a dangerous cut to perform, but in the past I've carpet taped a square block to the fence, so now I am using an aux fence that is 90 degrees to the original. I have held the end of the board to the original fence, then cut it at the appropriate angle. I really had to pay attention to where the blade was going to travel so I didn't cut off my fingers. Did a dry run first just to make sure I wasn't holding it in the cut path. I've also held down work pieces with a clamp for safety. I hate doing these but sometimes they're necessary. Another option is to cut it close with a coping saw and finish it up with hand tools, like a really sharp chisel or a plane. And of course lots of caulking after the install is complete. Good luck!
As someone once said in here when talking about crown molding, “ caulk makes me look like the carpenter I wish I was”. Hides many mistakes.
Caulk makes me look like someone I'm not, also
I heard someone on YouTube say “A little caulk and a little paint, makes you the carpenter you ain’t” I say that all the time to friends when they are doing any DIY projects
Start w a long piece and sneak up on it. Then the scarf joint will easier (in the middle).
The 130° angle cut both sides at 25°, the 50° angle will be best to cope because you can not get a steep enough angle on a miter saw
What do you want the finished return to be square to? If you want it to be square to the long line at the bottom of your drawing, each angle is 130/2 = 65 (same as if have a 90 degree angle at the end it would be 90/2 = 45 for each angle). Tricky part is you will have to cut the pieces reversed at 25, since miters saws don’t usually go to 65.
Alternatively you could leave the baseboard 90 and cut the return at 40.
I’m hoping to have to return square to the wall. My goal is to avoid seeing the cut end of the 130 degree finished, but it’s sounding like that might be tough to accomplish on a miter saw
Is there any reason you can't do this with a handsaw?
I don't know much carpenting, but I do know a lot of geometry. So if you can help me understand the carpenting part, I may be able to help with the geometry part.
Are you trying to put an end cap on the board, while the board is also miter cut in the other direction?
Sort of like the method he uses in this video, except that you would actually want the end to follow the staircase?
If that is your intention, you will run into the problem that any carved profile along the board will not align. You can cut out the end cap at an angle so it get the same length as the sloped end of the main board, but when you "fold it around" the end, the carving will bend downwards, so you end up with something, which is not very nice.
You can get around it by combining both methods from the video:
First you use his first method (the one he doesn't want to use), to make a 2x20° miter joint. Because you cut at 2x20°, and not 2x45°, the top edge of the end part will now be sloping down, perpendicular to the wall.
Then you use his second method to put an end cap on the end part from the first step so you don't see an exposed end of the first end part.
Warning: You will have several overlapping cuts ending in the same point at the bottom. Your end cap will turn out to be a needle. If you are able to extend the first end part one board width (so it goes below the bottom edge of the long part), you can greatly simplify the cutting so you don't have any overlapping cuts.
I am trying to cut a baseboard return the the wall. I can reliably cut baseboard returns when the baseboard ends 90 degree to the face, but ive run into a weird situation where i need to cut a return for a baseboard that ends 130 degrees to the face as pictured. I own a dual bevel miter saw but for the life of me cannot wrap my head around how to accomplish these cuts. Any guidance you can offer would be greatly appreciated