If you're moving the turtle inside, why do you want to heat the pond? How warm were you wanting the water?

Are you asking if you could recreate it like through breeding plants or like grow a saffron at home?

Are you the original artist? I see this image a lot without that watermark on it, it's a poor placement as it can easily be cropped out / colored over.

Here's an image showing more of the pistils attached on a developing fruit. Pardon the watermark: https://c7.alamy.com/comp/E4KGYR/stages-of-development-of-a-strawberry-on-the-plant-from-a-flower-to-E4KGYR.jpg 

I also had heard that you should only keep one. I think this could work out if you add them together, but that last time I tried adding another fire fish to the tank they fought and one died.

Looking for opinions on stocking a 120g tank.

Hello folks, I just wanted to get opinions on stocking my 120g community tank (30g sump). I think it's just about fully stocked but want to see the public opinion. I have:

  • 2 mollies
  • 3 cardinals
  • 1 longnose hawkfish
  • 1 firefish
  • 1 royal gramma
  • 1 scopas tang
  • 1 coral goby
  • 1 bicolor blenny
  • 2 zebra gobies

I wanted to get a sand sifting goby and maybe 3-5 shoaling fish like chromis as the last fish in the system. I have heard that chromis can be assholes though and I love my shy guy fish so I may go with something else. Thoughts / experiences?

Much appreciated!

Beautiful! I never considered doing a hanging basket like that on the edge. If you don't mind me asking, where did you get those? Do the pitcher plants require extra care?

OH, I was trying to collect the wrong thing. I kept trying to get the coral and didn't consider clipping the floor under the coral. Thank you!

What coral can I pinch off from though? All of the coral I am seeing say I can't pinch them off as the reef needs to be fully restored first.

Thank you for the help!

How does reef restoration work?SpoilerDiscussion

I can't seem to get this reef thing figured out. I'm at the reef, Director Bumblemore is here, I've purchased the coral pincers from him, but now I'm stumped. If I try to use the pincers to get coral, it says I can't do that until the reef is restored. I can't use any of the scaffolding or coral tanks because they all require a coral input?

Where do I get coral then?

EDIT: I was able to get it, here are the steps:

  • Get Director Bumblemore to show up, he will be at the reef that has his boat and a sign that says he has gone diving and will return soon. The boat and sign still stay when he shows up.
    • NOTE: I think you need to have found a certain number of bees for him to show up, I believe I had found 20 social bees and 4 solitary bees when he showed up the first time. You may also have to go through various dialog options with characters that mention Bumblemore.
  • Once Bumblemore is at the reef, purchase a pair of coral pincers from him - 20 rubees
  • Collect coral with the pincers. You will note that if you try to collect the little nubs of coral growing on the reef, it states the reef must be restored prior to collecting coral. You need to collect the coral from the coral bed, not the coral numbs. You essentially need to use the pincers to collect the floor.
  • When you collect a coral frag, that square will become dark blue, and will need to be rebuilt using scaffolding.
  • Once you collect from the bed and get a coral fragment, you can then use it in the coral tank.
  • Growing coral requires adjusting the pH and salinity of the water. You need a base (or the red powder produced by coral bees) and an alkali (or the purple droplet produced by custodian bees). You need salt to adjust the salinity, which can be acquired using the desalinator which itself can be purchased from the sailor in town. Finally you need a jar of water.
  • Bumblemore will sell base / alkali for 2 rubees each. He also sells water jars for 1 rubee each, but they are one of the rotating items he sells so you may need to wait a few minutes for them to show up.
  • When the coral frag is in the tank, you can hover over the frag it will tell you the pH and % salinity it wants.
  • When you grow a coral frag, you acquire more coral than you put in. Note this is a different type of coral than the coral frag you clipped from the reef.
  • Take the coral you get from the coral tank and place one into coral scaffolding and leave the coral to grow. Coral does not grow unless there is active bees within range. You can place scaffolding on any part of the reef that is darker blue. Certain bees will make scaffolding, but it is one use only and breaks when the coral fully grows.
  • Continue to clip coral fragments, growing coral and placing it on scaffolding until no more dark blue tiles remain and the reef is restored!
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1mo

For sure looks like a Lobaria lichen, I don't think staghorn fern grows the forests in Washington. Fun fact lichen are in fact not plants and are instead a mutualistic symbiosis of a fungi and an algae and/or a cyanobacteria. Gorgeous organism!

My cats are 100% uninterested in my tanks unless I physically hold them up and point out that there are fish in the tank, and even then they loose interest fast. I didn't used to have a lid on my smaller tank, and they would drink out of the tank. Not go after the fish, just drink the water. Then one day one of them threw up in the tank, so now they all have lids and the cats don't even acknowledge the tanks.

My brother has a large tank with a lid. His cats are also uninterested in the fish, but the kitten likes jumping on things and he jumped up on the lid and fell through into the tank. Only happened the one time. No fish or cats were harmed.

Cats are gonna cat but you're fish will be fine. I'd still encourage using a lid though.

Not sure what you mean by higher positions, but NASA does have a plant biology department, so probably: https://science.nasa.gov/biological-physical/focus-areas/plant-biology/focus-areas/

Someone has to figure out how to grow plants in space.

After coming from freshwater to saltwater, people in the saltwater side are more gadget heads, so individuals setups vary WAY more than people in fresh water tanks. A simple hang on back system can handle different bioloads then someone with a protein skimmer, refugium, that toilet paper roller thing, an auto-doser, ATO and a reactor. In freshwater, the fanciest it ever got (commonly) was a canister filter and CO2 dosed plants. Tank setups were more homologous.

So other than bioload, the other major factor is if the fish has enough space / tank mates to be happy, which is hard to measure outside of the general fishes well being. If the fish seems healthy, we assume it is also happy. So if someone is able to keep a fish healthy in a smaller tank size, they would recommend that size.

The bill carves out exceptions for research, aquaculture and it looks like it leaves open the option for businesses to be qualified if they want to continue selling collected / imported fish. Not an expert but this sounds like a good thing, right? Some harder to aquaculture species will probably become more expensive / less available, but if it helps reefs does it matter?

My advice would be to get it setup and running using the minimal parts necessary (so plumbing setup and return pump running with filter media in the SUMP), then go step by step from there. You don't need anything outside of the return pump and a tank that can hold RODI water to get started. Most people even recommend not turning the lights on for a month or two after setting it up.

For the RODI system, I don't know which one you have but you may need to replace the filters in it. Here are some instructions for an RODI setup: https://s3.amazonaws.com/brsinstructions/brsRODI/4-Stage-RODI-Instructions-2018.pdf If you are mixing your own saltwater, just get some marine salt mix (such as instant ocean) and follow the mixing instructions, you'll need a refractometer to measure salinity. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pvCkFTZLlGw&ab_channel=BRStv-SaltwaterAquariums%26ReefTanks and you may need to calibrate it first. If that all sounds like too much right now you can also often purchase premixed water at any local fish stores that sell saltwater fish / coral (mixing your own is cheaper in the long run).

As others have suggested, watching the 52 weeks of reefing is a big help as they have videos on every part of reefing: https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/category/brs-tv/52-weeks-of-reefing But if you have any specific questions of have equipment you want ID feel free to ask!

What are your water parameters? I don't see fin rot in this picture, but the white spots are a common symptom of ich. It's hard to say what a white film could be though, could be fungal, could be from high ammonia in the water.

I'm not an expert, but you can try a salt treatment as well as doing a water change (25%) every day for the next week (don't forget dechlorinator). Keep in mind that salt does not evaporate out and the only way to remove it is water changes, so you need to dose it carefully. https://lukesgoldies.com/blogs/news/salt-baths-and-use-of-salts-with-goldfish

There are medications for ich as well as fungal diseases, you could try those as well. I think you need to be careful about treatments and only do one treatment at a time. Regardless of what you end up going with, you need to test your water parameters and do a series of large water changes.

Also keep in mind that even if you save this fish, this will happen again unless you get a tank that is large enough for them with proper filtration. Best of luck to you and the fish!

Sorry for the confusion, the photo is showing the alk test not the pH test. Although now that I think about it showing a picture of the alk test is useless. Here's the pH test:

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[Help] Please help diagnosing a fish death.nsfw[Help]

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I had my diamond goby pass overnight and I'm not sure what happened to him. He didn't look diseased to me, maybe a little skinny? I noticed something was up last night as he was acting strange, just sitting in the corner with minimal movement even during feeding. Usually he was either in his little cave, digging new caves or filtering sand. He seemed to be acting normal.

The tank is in total 150g (120g display and 30g sump), and I've had it up and running for about 8 months. Parameters: pH: 7.8, temperature: 75F, Nitrate: 0, Nitrite: 0, Ammonia: 0, Alkalinity: 7.

I don't think I've made any huge changes to this tanks parameters. I started feeding the coral with CoralAmino a few times a week starting a month ago, and a week or two ago I added a peppermint shrimp, two fish (scopas tang and bicolor blenny) and 5 pieces of coral that had all gone through quarantine for 3 weeks. The shrimp sometimes hung out with the goby, but now I can't find him. I have not seen any infighting between the fish. I feed them once a day and rotate between feeding them frozen shrimp, flake food and freeze dried shrimp and put in a nori clip every few days.

Had a similar thing happen to a black molly a few weeks ago. She was acting fine until the day or two before her death, she was just swimming differently and she seemed to have less energy than normal but still ate fine. She also didn't seem diseased, and she didn't look skinny.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I had him a few months so he passed the bar to be named and we literally just named him Gaara. I had the molly even longer. Always hard to lose fish and I just want to prevent any more losses.

Such a cute fish, where you getting fish / coral for $2? I want in on that >_>