Ah OK, good. Please report back in on what's going on with the suggestions on a temp increase.
Can you show us your underside of the print so we can get an idea of your z offset/first layer squish? That's going to be a factor for textured sheets to ensure good adhesion. When in doubt, you could always do a brim, but based on what I see model-wise, you probably won't need it.
Without more context, I'm going to assume that this plate hasn't been cleaned in a while. I would suggest cleaning it once it's cooled down with warm water and dish soap. Dry it as best as possible and try not to touch it. Your oils from your fingers/hands will contaminate the build plate. I would then try printing as-is. I would only use glue stick as an aid, but better suited for materials that require an interface layer and/or additional adhesion help like ASA. You're running PLA so I think you might be OK without the glue stick, but again it's your call and consider it an aid.
Original Anycubic Kobra like this?
I completely missed that you're on Klipper. Don't use my value as it was meant for Marlin.
Try a temperature increase.
Do you have comparison versions of this print on different PLA where you don't have this problem? Some will say that settings should be tuned per PLA material from different vendors. I personally don't do that, but if I do run into problems I generally chaulk it up to lower quality/cheap PLA filament (wet or poor quality). You get what you pay for.
However, if there is an underlining problem, then it won't really matter the different kind of PLA by manufacturer.
I would inspect your nozzle. How long have you been printing on this printer? It might be due for a replacement.
It feels like your nozzle or filament path into the nozzle is somewhat constrained/clog. What are your e-steps for the H2? It should be around 932, but of course you want to tune that. The only reason I'm looking at a potential clog is the curling back up towards to the hot end. That generally tells me there's a pressure issue as filament really should be flow downwards not curling up.
You could debug this by swapping out the nozzle, if you have a spare one. Clicking to me sounds like a skipping issue meaning the hot end is trying to push more plastic from the extruder than it can really handle.
You could also try bumping up temps too to see if that has an effect. I noticed you don't have a sock on the hotend as well. I'm sure everyone has their own opinions on if socks make a difference. I personally think they do and I used to use H2 steps on many machines. I found that heat creep can be a problem when the entire unit struggles to keep up with the speed I'm pushing it to handle.
Michael at Teaching Tech has a really good guide with context and explains everything: https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#esteps
A video to go along with the guide:
https://youtu.be/rp3r921DBGI?si=7gybRnS5jRRz7zz4&t=422
Once you do it a couple times, it becomes something that is pretty straight forward. Everyone has their way, but I've been doing this forever. Mind you, your setup is Marlin based. If you ever decide to go to Klipper, it's a completely different approach.
I would approach this by ruling out a wiring issue to the stepper motor itself. I would take it apart and leave the stepper by itself then do an extruder move. My guess is the extruder is going back and forth - that means a wiring issue. It moves OK in the right direction, then I would look to see if there is binding on the BMG itself. Sometimes if you assemble it where the screws are too tight, binding will occur too.
I'd say - rule out one thing at the time.
What you are seeing is the filament path clogging and the extruder is skipping. A couple things to consider:
Before all metal hot ends were mainstream, most budget printers have the white tube, known as the PTFE tube, would run from the extruder here to the hot end at the nozzle. Overtime the PTFE tube by the nozzle starts to breakdown from heat and lose it's smooth pathing into the nozzle.
Alternatively, if the PTFE tube isn't 100% butted up against the nozzle can create a clog.
PTFE tube couplers on the top of Creality hotends fail overtime too. The teeth inside lose grip. If the PTFE tube moves, clogs will most definitely occur.
This was a pretty common problem back in the day. I would suggest first start off by removing the filament (heating up to 210) and the examine the tip (feel free to add a photo as a response). Then also remove the PTFE from the hot end and inspect what it looks like (same suggestion as the filament). Cool down the hot end.
If the PTFE tube is black or dark, then you need to replace it. It's pretty common on Amazon and generally comes with a PTFE tube cutter too.
Oh no no, don't do it in Cura. If you change materials, you have to adjust for that. Best to always do it on the printer itself. I can't remember, but the Z end stop should be adjustable? Meaning you can raise or lower it.
To answer your question, yes - it should have paper drag. Give this video a look as it suggests the way I like for leveling beds like this:
Yup! u/strantom - make sure you recheck your level and offset. If you have the ability, run PID tuning for the hotend
Great news! Just curious what exactly did you do? I saw your other post, but I'm just trying to fill in the blanks.
As for the filament sticking issue, I would make sure the bed is clean (IPA does wonders, but sometimes you have to take the cool bed off and give it a clean with some dish soap and warm water then dry it very well). I would recheck your bed tram/level as well with a piece of a paper/drag of the nozzle check on all four corner then center.
I have KAMP installed on both of my K1s. However, I did notice on the other two that I sold, if the Creality firmware update occurs, you have to reinstall KAMP. I noticed this when the purge line was normal on a smaller print.
Also when it starts the print, what is showing in the console area of Mainsail or Fluidd? If it shows messages related to KAMP is happening, then it's working, but if you don't see that - then KAMP isn't really installed. You may have to double check the helper script and go to information to see if there is a check mark next to KAMP.
I would strongly still suggest learning how the firmware setup works and then find as much details about the A20 as much as possible. Wouldn't hurt to put the original firmware back on (if you have it). Best of luck!
If you're interested, you could try to design and make your own. TinkerCAD would be a good first stop if you haven't dabbled in that before.
I absolutely love Thangs. I used to use Yeggi for the longest time, but I think Thangs is a better interface for me.
No problem. Sorry we couldn't get any further. I'm hoping that maybe someone else who has dealt with the stock configuration can help. Fingers crossed on whatever result comes from this. I just hope this didn't put a damper on any interest with 3D printing. When it works great it's fun, but when it doesn't...well you know.
Have you tried different speeds on the outer wall? I see you put 10mm/s is that just overall print speed or is that representing the outer wall speed?
I'm confused. What does 3DBuilder have to do with your workflow here (saving and then loading the file into Cura)? If they are in STL format to begin with, I would assume they are ready to be dropped in your slicer of choice unless you were instructed to use 3DBuilder for scaling purposes, but that too can be done in the slicer. Adding in another layer in your process seems redundant to me.
If the actual dimensions of the file doesn't fit on your printer, I wouldn't scale it down else original model size can be impacted (we don't know if the file needs to be it's original dimensions or not like a helmet vs. something that has to fit dimensionally into something else). If the file doesn't fit your bed, do you have options to slice it into parts? Context here will help.
Wedge wise - I would have probably gone with something like this:
Have you searched on Thangs or Thingiverse? I took a few minutes and searched for "ring doorbell pro" and saw this:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4649789
I think a neck like the photo above seems a little scary to me as far as strength goes. The link I provided above seems more robust. Would that work for your application? I would suggest measuring to see how far out the brick goes. I used a angled wedge from Ring for my Ring pro well before I got into 3D printing, but I had a need for a do-over, I would have done a custom solution. Then again, I was also too lazy to extend my wires so consider that as part of your solution too.
$250? To be 100% honest - it's going to be a challenge to find someone who values the printer for what you value. For that amount, the modern printer options are light years ahead on options and are more mainstream. Neptune 4 would be a consideration.
The firmware issue on the extruder and filament runout may come off as a project printer. Sadly the Geeetech A20 hasn't been sold in many years and don't really use mainstream parts other than it's structure and maybe stepper motors.
What about looking for someone to trade towards an Ender 3 or Ender 3 Max? That would give you a better chance as that printer has been mainstream for a long time.
For cosplay, you can get away with really any size printer if you don't mind slicing up props or pieces to fit various bed sizes. Modern slicers have that ability and assist with options to help with alignment, etc. Helmets would be a good example.
You could tinker with it when you can, but definitely is not a priority. You never know, if you end up finding the time to play with it you could benefit from the knowledge. At the same time, I can totally understand if you want to opt out.
Sorry you aren't having the best experience. I know the feeling as I picked up a used printer recently as a tinker project and it's somewhat obscure too
Ah OK, so if you mean by "tight" as in squished - you have to keep an eye on that. Just because you adjust the z offset, don't mean it's something you don't monitor and touch again. In most cases, over time the offset may need readjustment. I would consider checking your z-offset and rule that out.
Else cleaning the textured PEI isn't a bad route too, but won't matter if the offset is too high.
Failing
3Dprinting