On my old Focus ST, my wife was driving it one day and hit a pigeon and the speed forced the thing all the way through the grille. It did not come back out in one piece. Oof.

That's the whole point and the parry trick of this car. You can change the drive mode on a heartbeat, and just hit the big red NGS button when you need your car to be spicy for a few seconds.

I for one just want to appreciate someone using the drive modes on this car how they're intended and not just being like "Durrrr I made car loud and run that 24/7" like most of these dudes. Anyhow I usually run in Normal or Eco, NGS button is a perfect "i need to pass" or whatever quick thing you need to do, or if I decide I'm going to take a turn hard or whatever on the way home from the store I'll throw it in N mode to go around my favorite corner.

OP, you should listen to this guy and "toke down your life" #blazeit

is Irvine really aspirational for people? It's all the same boring shit I don't like here but cleaner and more expensive. It's the same cultureless suburbia with identical strip malls full of chain stores, but in Irvine they're higher end chain stores.

Florida has the warm weather with hurricanes, humidity, and the worst fucking people in the country. You couldn't pay me to live in that shithole.

Obviously there are companies that make the actual fireworks (Phantom, TNT etc.) but the stands locally are all run by local nonprofits. Stuff like high school basketball teams and churches and the like, they all have posted big signs outside of the stand what group is running it and getting the profits from it.

When Fontana tried to make fireworks illegal in the city, part of the reason they overturned it is that there were dozens of these groups who relied on that money as part of their annual budget. And I recall hearing that they could bring in 10s of thousands of dollars for the groups that run them.

I haven't had Taco Nazo, but if you're looking for fish tacos in Fontana I've been a fan of DEL PACIFICO Mexican & Seafood Mariscos on Foothill in Fontana and I'm actually kinda in love with the baja style fish tacos from Chronic Taco in North Rialto

Buying a used car, you pay higher interest rates than you do buying a new car. The warranty starts when the car is born, so you'll be getting a car that has already burned through part of it's warranty and it's driving life. Also this car seems to attract a lot of immature drivers, and I feel like the kind of person who's trading in a 1 year old car is more likely an immature driver or someone less likely to take care of it.

Odd, I use agave more often than not and I've never run into this

The State is definitely the sniper shot here. I think some secondary options could be Eureka Burger (one in Ontario one in Claremont) and Lazy Dog both have decent cocktails and should be a step above most of the other chain bars.

Beyond that you start getting into the college towns (Claremont/Riverside/Redlands) to have really good bar options.

The culture of IE cities is also incredibly anti-bar as well. Most of the cities here consider themselves "Bedroom communities" still. You live here, and you go elsewhere to do stuff. The bars are either run down bars that got their license 50 years ago, or shit like Applebee's. We don't really have neighborhood bars in most places, you need to get in your car and drive 20+ minutes to get to somewhere to drink. And because there isn't a culture of having a local bar where you can have 1-2 drinks regularly, people just save up all their drinking and when they go out they decide to make the best of it and GO BIG. This means more people starting shit at bars, more drunk drivers and more bad behavior.

Just going to give you a general answer because we can't really fill in all of the gaps here. There are a few transactions in buying your car, and shady dealerships will try to fuck with different ones and shift money around to make you think you got a deal and charge you the same or more.

• For your trade in, get it valued by somewhere else (CarMax as other people suggested). Are they giving you more than CarMax? Great, take it. Giving you less? Then sell it to CarMax unless they want to beat it.

• For your financing, get pre-approved on a loan from your bank. What is the interest rate? Can the dealership beat it? If not, use the loan from your bank.

• Now the part you're mostly asking about, the car purchase itself. There are exactly 3 things that are mandatory: The MSRP of the vehicle, taxes, and your state license fee. In some states apparently they let the dealership dick you with a Documentation Fee but they definitely don't have that in my state. Your total purchase price should be the MSRP (or less) + tax + license. Every other line item on there is extra gravy for the dealership. Every single thing the finance guy tries to sell you is extra gravy for the dealership.

Your history shows Dade County. Google says an average doc fee in Florida is $999. The highest MSRP I could option an EN up to (with the color that costs more) is $36,820 so not sure where your dealer got $37095.

On a purchase price of $36,820, for Dade County, google shows:

State Tax: $ 2269.14

County Tax: $ 50.00

DMV Fees: $ 383.95

So your total purchase price for the vehicle should be $40522.09 assuming you're stuck with the doc fee. PTA fee, FMA, filing fee? All extra bullshit.

Once you get the dealership to settle on the purchase price actually being at that amount, that's when you start discussing your trade in. Ask them what they'll give you, and know it needs to be equal or better to what you already got quoted from CarMax. If they won't budge, sell your car to CarMax and tell them you'll be back when you have the money. Whatever the difference is, that should subtract from that $40522.09 price for the amount financed.

Once you've got your purchase price sorted, and your trade price sorted, they'll send you to the finance guy. You should be walking in with a quote for an auto loan from your bank or an online bank. If their interest rate is better than your bank, take it. If not, let them know you'll be using the loan from your bank instead. Usually the dealership can beat it, and they are motivated to because they get a kickback on the loan. The finance guy will then try to sell you a dozen other things. Extended warranty, gap coverage, paint protection, you name it. If you actually want any of these things you can get them better and cheaper elsewhere. Say no to everything. I tell them up front I'm going to say no to everything. Some of them are fine, other ones still annoyingly ask you about every fucking thing.

So yeah take this method for all of your car buying. Dealers love mixing up your trade price + your purchase price and they give you $500 on one then take $500 on the other. You need to treat these as 2 separate transactions because that's what they are. The dealership is offering you $11537 for your trade in and is having you throw $2000 on top because they won't give you enough to pay it off. This seems like it's on the low end of KBB for a 2016 Mustang, but I don't know because I don't know your car. Go to CarMax and get a competing quote. If you owe more than your Mustang is worth, you really need to just keep driving it for another year or so and build up some equity. Financing part of your old car + a new car at current rates, by the time you're done paying interest and everything you'll have paid out $50-60k for this car. Don't do it my dude.

Also, don't be afraid to check their work and make them explain it. I used this site to figure out the local tax + fees etc. https://www.factorywarrantylist.com/auto-loan-calculator-florida.html

You need to know exactly what you owe on that car. Don't guess. Get your payoff amount from your lender. You can call them or do it on their website. Is that more than the trade in value you got from CarMax that the dealership is matching or beating? If it's not, you probably should not be trading in your car and need to keep it for a while.

I'm actually in the process of downsizing to 18s, and it's basically all upside for me:

* Lighter/cheaper wheels

* Better ride

* Cheaper tires

The only thing is the brakes on these cars are big so not all 18s will fit cleanly. Also in my case I have a set of track tires in the right size from my last car that I can swap on immediately to make the change less expensive.

But yeah unless you're in love with how the bigger wheels look, there are basically no downsides to going down to 18s

Right? Like I love sleeping in as much as anyone but trying to cut to the last possible second and worry about missing your flight the whole time? Fuckin miserable

So you are going to:
- Finance a car at a much higher used car interest rate
- Give up 16k worth of warranty and use of the car
- Roll the dice on some problems that you have personally witnessed

To save 5k off the MSRP?

+1 to this. The interior of the WRX felt extremely dated to me. It did not feel like a 35k car.

Looked at WRX for my car and my wife's car. The interior feels dated, and the newest model they have leaned into the REI Outdoorsy aesthetic and really gotten away from being for people who want a performance car. At the same price point the EN offers a ton more value. Also I wanted something with good handling on mountain roads and AutoX and track and the EN is a much better vehicle for that than the WRX.

They have an ATM out front if you don't carry cash

My brother moved away a few years ago and every time he visits Joe's is the #1 place he wants to go

What's your goal here my dude?

You're begging for someone to tell you "Yes, go do these mods, it won't void your warranty and the dealer will never know" and it's not true. They will know. It can and will void your warranty. If you are worried about your warranty, don't mod your car. If you want to mod anyways, knock yourself out. You will likely no longer have a warranty. Do you think if you argue with enough people on reddit who keep telling you what reality is that you can teleport to imaginationland?

You said you're modding no matter what, which means you don't care about voiding your warranty and you can afford covering it out of pocket. Thread over. Why are you sitting here getting mad at everyone who answers your question?

The purpose there is to protect you. If the guy with no license or insurance accidentally causes $10k in damage to your house then you're stuck with the bill.

I again bring your attention to the fact that OP is talking about hiring the Home Depot contractor or a handyman to do these jobs, this is how you get the r/HomeImprovement horror stories of the tile shower that was built right on drywall and collapses into a hole filled with black mold.

Kitchen cabinets means you need someone to to the cabinets, someone to measure/cut/install countertops, someone to hook up the plumbing to your sink/dishwasher that were hooked back up and this is assuming you don't move anything and need more electrical and plumbing work. You *can* hire all the people yourself, hell, you *can* do all the work yourself. How long do you want to have your house out of commission? How good are you at finding and vetting vendors?

It's important for OP to understand that with a general contractor what they're paying for is that person's expertise and contacts though. The GC is putting their reputation on the line if they bring in a trade and they are incentivized to use people they've vetted who will make them look good. Considering OP seems very new to the whole thing and seems to be considering having a neighborhood handyman do the whole remodel, a GC might be the right call here.