Huh, that actually worked, I think it's the first time I see bank's app functionality changes depending on the hour - thanks though!

I think I'm missing something - Barclays T&C stress that you are supposed to apply for the account from the mobile app. But the app I downloaded doesn't allow me to apply for anything, the only thing I can do is to register the app using one of Barclays product I already own, which is a problem because I have none. Have I donwloaded a wrong app, or what I'm missing here?

You mean Jyers?

It's gonna be a bit harder to test, because I can only observe the breakage if I'm actively using the internet (i.e. browsing). If the breakage happens when I'm e.g. just reading an open article, I won't be able to spot it.

But yeah, that's a good idea, perhaps it'll take me more than just one day to test, but after a few of those I should get some results - even though I doubt this is cloudflared (i.e. DoH) related tbh.

Thanks!

My apologies, I somehow missed your reply here and left it without an answer...

You are partially correct - my annoyance is indeed related to default settings not working well in for all models, but that's just a half of the story - the other half is that I had no problems with PETG warping/curling/overhangs on Ender3V2 (now, to be clear I had tons of other problems with E3V2 which is why I've bought Prusa, but they were other, unrelated problems). My maybe naive and oversimplistic reasoning went like this: since some overhangs are ok with Prusa while others are not, that means amount of cooling/air flow is different in different places; and since I didn't have the same problems with E3V2, it means we can achieve the same amount of cooling/air flow in all directions; hence, fan shroud in E3V2 is superior to Prusa's one.

I've kind of realized though that maybe I'm not completely fair - while I've printed a decent amount of PETG on E3V2, those weren't exactly the same parts I'm printing on mk3s, so it's hardly a scientific comparison - I don't remember what exactly I was printing on E3V2, but maybe it just so happened those models were "easier" to print.

I get what you're saying that some amount of settings changing might be needed for each print - that's not great, as I want to use 3d printer as a tool, and I want to keep the tinkering to the minimum (another reason why I've got myself a mk3s). That being said I realize it's not possible to not have a minimum amount of tinkering, it's a reality of 3d printing. Maybe this "minimum" amount is slightly larger than what I thought.

Thanks for all your help anyway!

Hmm I don't care too much about visibility, not at the moment anyway. This seems like not a trivial mod (even if not terribly hard), and I'm pretty sure doing it would mean I wouldn't get support from prusa any more (I know how CS works, they'd say they can't help me as I'm using unsanctioned parts, even if it had nothing to do with any problem).

So now I'm wondering if I still want to go this route...

To be clear, the small parts on photos are my own artificial design to debug the problem, but I've printed them because I've been running into similar issues all the time. Granted, most of the time it annoys me because the print looks ugly, but I do have real issues too: on one print the nozzle was hitting a small corner curl, and knocked the part a few times, failing the print. Another print was bevel gear, curling has caused a terrible wall finish (as seen on pictures), which would greatly affect meshing. On yet another part the small region was one side of a slot, and curling has messed with my tolerances. Even if nothing of the above would happen, you'd get nozzle drag over the part, filament sticking to the nozzle, blobs, and potential missed steps (although tbh I haven't noticed missed steps so far).

I understand that this is a hobby level tech - although mk3s+ is kind of advertised as production ready printer - but as I've said I've been printing overhangs on e3v2 without such problems, so if even creality of all things can solve this issue, surely it's not too hard to solve?

Ok, but if the hot polymer is the problem (which makes sense), why is it a problem only on some of the corners? To be clear, I'm not arguing you are wrong, I just want to understand. If I had consistent issues on all overhangs, I'd agree it's just something I need to deal with by adjusting speed & cooling - but it's not consistent, some of them are better and some are worse.

Thanks, but first of all I don't want to overdo the cooling - PETG is supposed to be quite sensitive to it, and the higher you go the weaker the parts are. And to achieve reasonable results I sometimes need to go as far as 70-80% settings in prusa slicer (for reference, the default for this filament is 30-50%). Also, my common sense tells me that if one of the corners turns out all right, then there's enough cooling in principle, but maybe it's misdirected? Does it make sense?

Thanks for the info about the fan duct. I was actually considering fan duct replacement, but I did some searching and it seems nobody's bothered by that with mk3s+ (contrary to my experience with E3V2 where everyone and their brother were replacing ducts). Can you tell me if there are any downsides of the replaced duct? And also what did you print it with - I don't see this mentioned on Printables, and I know the original duct is printed with ABS which isn't an option for me right now (no enclosure, no filters for ABS VOCs etc).

How many people replace the fan duct in mk3s+ anyway?

Yes, lowering speed definitely helps - but first of all sometimes the amount I need to lower the speed to are just ridiculous, and also what I don't understand is - if the speed is too high, then why one corner still prints pretty much perfectly, another doesn't?

Thanks. That obviously makes sense, but what bothers me is the irregularity. If one corner turns out ok, I think that means I have enough "raw cooling", and the problem could be related to something else, like fan duct geometry or something?

Thank you. I know those two things could help, but they have significant downsides, and the thing that bugs me is not the terrible overhangs in general, but the fact that they are only in some places, but not others. I mean, if one corner turns out perfect that means the speed & amount of cooling should be enough, and the problem is with something else, like fan duct geometry or something?

Ok, so results of my tests:

• Testing the failing file with SD Card: indeed works, so it's definitely an OctoPrint issue
• I'm not gonna post the first 3 lines, because I've checked, and they are identical. I think OctoPrint does some magic/modifies gcode, and includes the M117 command that causes issues later (I've searched in the uploaded file, there's no M117 command there). Not sure what this is about, but will follow this up with them.

I'm still very surprised that this isn't a well-known issue. I mean, you'd imagine tons of people use Prusa printers with Prusaslicer & Octoprint, right?

Anyway, thanks!

Good idea, I have been running some simple tests, but haven't check the SD card, I kind of forgot it exists (I mean printing with SD card is so tedious, I've printed all the pre-loaded pre-sliced things from the card just for fun, and then immediately connected octopi, ain't nobody has time for SD card printing ;-)).

I have a print running right now, but I'll try the card later, and also reproduce the bug & send the first 3 lines of files 👍

I'm using the original Prusa fan duct that came in the kit - I didn't even know people are modding them :-) (contrary to my previous experiences with Ender, where everyone seemed to be doing so). Prusa also says to print those part from ASA, or other high-temp plastic, and I don't have an enclosure yet, so that's not an option.

I'm doing the vase mode, but with line width 0.85 - seems to be working "fine" with my 0.4 nozzle - although I was considering if that could cause issues... maybe I should invest in 0.8 nozzle 🤔

I've done the "traditional" PNP style, but apart from still getting layer shifts (tbf, I've used rather high speeds), I'm getting the seam, which is even more visible with translucent filaments. And I was hoping vase mode will fix that issue - which I guess it did, but at a price...

So that has turned out to be a very good idea. Apparently if you go slow enough (up to 15mm/s seems to work) you get enough layer time for thin layers of vase mode to cool down enough and solidify, even with *no* part cooling fan.

Even 10mm/s & 20% fan gives decent result. 10mm/s & 0% fan gives results similar to 2mm/s, i.e. "really good but not perfect". I went as far as 5mm/s, but the gains weren't significant at this point. Perhaps 2mm/s with no fan would give even better results but it's soooooo sloooooow I'm not gonna test it.

Another idea I had is that perhaps minor drafts (even the pressure changes when opening/closing room doors) could be a factor - I was even kind of able to see that. So enclosure could help a lot (although then you might need a cooling fan...). I'm planning to build an enclosure in future, we'll see.

I'm not gonna lie, I've thought about cooling fan being a problem. Unfortunately, PETG requires some cooling - not too much, but defaults are between 30%-50%. I wonder if I'd slow down a lot (to like, 10mm/s) so there's a lot of layer time, and set fan to something like 10%-20%, if that would help... I think turning it off completely is not an option though :-(

FWIW I've finally had enough, returned the E3V2 (Bought during Black Friday, so I had extended return window until Jan 31st).

Surprisingly, even though my experience with E3V2 was not great, I kind of got sucked into the 3D printing world in general so I had to find an alternative, I didn't want to give up.

After more research, I've decided to open my pockets, and have ordered Prusa Mk3s+ (Kit). I can't comment on it yet though, I've ordered on Feb 1st and the lead time was 5-6 weeks back then, it's supposed to be shipped next week 🤞

I was promised that with Prusa it "just works" (after you finish the somewhat challenging build if you've ordered a kit). I really hope it's true :-)

How easy was to troubleshoot this?

To perhaps explain myself better - when I was putting together Ender, I read that v-rollers need to tight so they don't rattle. So I tightened them. I knew that in theory you could overtighten them, but that was kind of my problem, what is "not enough", what is "too much", what's the sweet spot?

Only after fighting changing z-offset and nozzle drag for weeks, reading all I could find, testing many things, I've finally randomly had a chat with a guy and learned that my v-rollers are too tight.

I guess my problem is not really with "problem that will occur" - I know they will, but I don't want to spend weeks trying to fix them.

Yeah sure I was exaggerating a little bit being frustrated with my E3V2 experience. I actually don't mind tinkering, I just don't want to spend 90% of the time doing this :-) getting hands dirty every now and then (and especially at the beginning) is fine.