A lot of bagged potting mixes have "forestry products" as a major ingredient, which is just largish chunks of wood. This isn't a great growing medium because it takes a lot of nitrogen to break down that woody material, which leaves little nitrogen for your plant. At this point, I would supplement once with an immediately-bioavailable fertilizer that has relatively higher nitrogen, like a fish or kelp fert, and see how the plant reacts over the following week.

Did you harden off the plant to outdoor conditions before you planted? Probably what you're seeing is either (a) the plant adjusting to the intensity of full sun, or (b) a problem with the growing medium, which looks to have a lot of woody forest products in it. Does this mix look that "chunky" throughout or is this a mulch that you've applied on top?

Just look for an off-the-shelf seedling mix. What you're currently using looks like it's compacted and draining poorly, and it may be devoid of nutrients at this point if you're recycling medium without amending it.

This is a constant, unpredictable risk with any bagged herbivore manure due to persistent herbicides on the feed hay that pass through the animal's gut and are retained in the subsequent compost. The relative risk is lower with cow vs. horse manure because of their typical diets, but it's definitely something that all growers buying bagged compost should be aware of.

If you're really worried, then grab a couple of peas or beans (depending on local temps) and try to germinate them in a sample of the compost. If they sprout OK, then the compost is fine.

They're too small to prune -- these plants have just barely gotten their first leaves. Once they put on some height, then prune right above a leaf node so that you trigger two growing points. Continue that process as the plant grows to force it toward bushier growth. See this pic  as an example.

That's very little growing medium for a seedling, and it looks like straight peat moss -- can you confirm what you are growing in?

What's the soil medium that you planted in, and how recently did you transplant into that bag?

Nope, let cucurbits vine out and don't pinch anything, especially this early in the season.

Happy squash absolutely crush out produce. It's all fun and games until your crisper drawers are overflowing. :)

Nope, totally fine. Just means that you have healthy fungus in the soil.

You can pick at that stage to let them ripen on the counter. They should be red at full ripeness.

Yes, it's green garlic. Perfectly edible, but it won't cure or store like normal garlic. Eat or dehydrate asap.

How fresh are your seeds? Allium seeds don't have great shelf life compared to many other garden veggies. Beyond that, they shouldn't be hard to germinate. I sow them indoors in flats, no dome or heat mat, and they have strong germ rates with just a daily misting of water.

My trellis collapsed and now I have the Pea Pile. Still producing, though...

Carrots take 1-2 weeks to germinate at their optimal temps of 50-65F. It can easily take 3 weeks in the summer. They need to stay moist for that entire time, which is why the board helps, but you need to remove the board as soon as sprouts appear so that they can access sunlight. So, they're a pain in the ass to get started, but they're easy once you get them germinated. Just thin to about 2" apart and leave them alone.

I had no luck with germinating carrots until I started physically covering the rows of seeds with wood boards (cheap furring strips cut to length) or sheets of cardboard to hold in the moisture. I can be lazier with early-spring planting because I get abundant rainfall, but my summer planting for a fall harvest absolutely must have a physical barrier between the soil and the sun.

If you struggle with carrot-root fly, then it's also a game-changer to grow carrots in raised planters with a surface that is 2.5' or higher off the ground. The flies almost never get that high in the air.

You've had a wild spring in the midwest! Some years just kick your butt no matter how well you plan.

Let it go and see what happens, unless you're really strapped for space in your garden. In the future, don't rush out peppers after your last frost date. Mine typically go out 30 days after last frost at the earliest because they just get pissy if nighttime temps are still dipping below 60F. Better to pot them up indoors and hold a bit longer until the soil temps and weather are to their liking.

Just an aside, but you might really get a lot from watching videos by Growing in the Garden on YouTube. She's in Mesa and all of her guidance is targeted for people gardening in your conditions.

Most rooting vegetables will focus on producing green growth, rather than a sizable tap root, in nitrogen-rich soil. You've probably got a thin layer of very nitrogen-rich topsoil sitting on top of functionally-dead, compacted clay. Have you done any tilling or broad-forking to this patch?

That's a bit cool of a temperature for cucumbers. You want soil temps to be at least 17.2 C for cucumbers to grow. Overwatering may be an issue; saturated soil prevents the roots from accessing oxygen, so let the soil dry out for a few days and see if things improve.

I frequently do two rounds of summer squash. I pull round one around early/mid July; by that point, they're usually starting to slow production and succumb to mildew or pests. Round two usually comes to maturity between late August and early September. You get better resistance in a healthy younger seedling, and you can get more variety in the same footprint if you want to try out different squash types. (Plus you get a 6-week break so that you aren't completely burned out on summer squash...)

Raw scraps and fresh manure that hasn't decomposed to compost will make things worse. Soil bacteria will need to sequester nitrogen to break down this material, which further deprives your squash of nutrients. You need proper compost in this soil.

I don't see any plant damage, so probably squirrels. Squirrels are drawn to dig in recently-disturbed and exposed soil. It's annoying, but not a concern if they aren't disturbing the roots of any plants.