If you can't simply unfasten the existing top, and resort to gluing an additional top to it, don't scuff the wood. If you want to use wood glue, strip the finish from the existing top first. But instead of wood glue you could just use epoxy or gorilla glue.

I would also cut a drip kerf in the bottom and I would caulk the joint where the new and old tops meet.

Dude me either, I cannot even imagine. And especially not earlier today, because I would remember if I had.

Yeah just learn plumbing and excavation and concrete and do all of this work with the garage door closed. Carry the dirt out in your pockets and drop it down your pant leg as you walk around the yard. Synchronize your strikes on the floor with the church bell so neighbors don't hear you.

Get more quotes. I have no idea if this is comparable to other electricians in your area, but I do know that I would tell someone to fuck themselves if they wanted $1400 to install two lights and a switch. They say on the quote that they will beat other quotes, so go for it.

Also, are they supplying the lights, or do you already have them?

I think other things are going to affect it, like what kind of access they have to what they need to work on. If they can get in the attic and simply add a leg for these lights from an existing wire and drill through a top plate and drop it in, then I am sure this is ridiculous. But it may be that it's a lot more complicated than that.

Buddy are you planning to break into this house from the second floor?

Why don't you go ahead and tell us how big around you are and we'll estimate if you can fit.

When I show wood, people don't even bother consulting Reddit, they just call the police straight away.

I like how the roof is designed to direct water both to a low point in the roof and away from the sloped part of the site, instead to where you would park or grill or play fetch with the dog.

I am ignorant about this but still I would think the zip is more important lower down. This seems silly, Even if there is an explanation.

The important thing is to have your girlfriends and wives film it.

Sounds like it was a bad thing that they hit your car.

I like your idea to frame a 2x4 wall so that the sideways studs and the gap make it a 5.5 inch depth wall. Having the interior and exterior walls separated is good for sound dampening and insulation.

Use fire block foam between your new studs and the existing framing so air can't flow between cavities. Make your rough opening for the window larger and use osb or plywood to connect the two walls in the opening.

I bet it would make a great project car.

Not sure about any other kind of car. But if you want a project then hell yeah.

I would want to add some material to hang from rather than just attach to the structure that's there. I am ignorant but I think that design isn't meant for a hoist.

This is the kind of shit I'm talking about when people say that "studs are sixteen inches on center."

I've never used a stud finder that was any good. I used a magnet at my previous house and that did get me about three places I could screw into, but later I realized it was a post framed structure, or something like that, since there wasn't wood below or above where the first screws went in.

To be fair, I helped some friends mount two televisions recently and their studs were perfectly intervaled. I was in disbelief. It's the only time I've ever seen it in my life.

Kids revving their scooter engines is such a funny problem.

Open web floor trusses.

Yeah but think about how many panels you could have carried up the ladder, hanging off one side, in that time! Probably almost one!

I believe it depends on the roof design. If that is closed cell foam, then water and vapor cannot pass through it. So if the wood it is sprayed on gets wet, that wood can only dry to the other side. If the wood is sandwiched between closed cell foam and an impermeable roof underlayment, then a leak would cause water to get trapped and cause rot.

I'm also totally ignorant on cold weather home design, but I think that complicates it a little more, like moisture condensing on wood and soaking in through a crack, then getting trapped in the wood behind the foam.

It doesn't look okay, but looks aren't everything. You won't be able see it once the drywall and trim are finished.

But also it's not okay and should be fixed.

Is it actually all as wavy as that? Its not expanding in the sun, it's actually just the raking light exposes it?

That looks pretty terrible. I say this as someone who installed my own siding, and there's a particularly bad seam that gets perfectly angled light for part of the year to expose how bad I did lol