I don't have a v3 so forgive me if this is a dumb question. Is it a dual axis on the gantry? Because it looks it could be gantry sag judging from how the columns on the map, top down, are similar but the rows changing linearly
Sorry for delay. Ironing is a setting in your slicer. Has your printer retracts on the last layer then just drags the hot nozzle along the top layer of the print smoothing it out
When leveling, I recommend getting/using a feeler gauge over a sheet of paper or something. Much more consistent. Also be sure to check the center of your bed when leveling as well. After tramming around your build plate, adjust your z offset by the thickness of the feeler gauge so the nozzle is just barely kissing the bed. You do that because when you start a print, it keeps the nozzle at that .2mm(or whatever your layer height is) above the BP. So if you don't adjust the Z Offset by the feeler gauge thickness then it's printing that much higher off the bed.
One of the other big things that gave me adhesion issues was gantry sag. Use the depth gauge on your calipers and really take your time trying to get the left and right sides of the gantry within +/- 1mm of each other
Do you have ironing on? If it is, it could be the reason. If it isn't, you could try adding another top layer to your print and turning on ironing
Okay, since the extruder is still trying to push the filament then it's likely a clog. What I like doing is heating the nozzle to temp, turn off the printer, and manually push the filament thru the nozzle slowly as it's cooling. once the filament starts getting cool and it's harder to push thru the nozzle, wait another few seconds and pull the filament out. That should help clear up any particulates in the nozzle then just send a needle thru the nozzle to make sure the tip is clear as well
Did the extruder motor stop as well or did filament just stop coming out?
Happy to do what I can to try to help! Hopefully things work out! My knowledge of non E3V2 firmware stuff is practically non-existent, so thats about where any troubleshooting assistance from me comes to an end. But I believe in you!!
It can and does. Time varies depending on the type of filament. PLA takes a healthy amount of time before moisture starts affecting it depending on how humid it is. But PETG can can absorb enough moisture to mess with prints in like a week or as little as a few days in some cases
Everyones go to comment here is "level your bed" and "dry your filament". It's not a bad thing to double check level and stuff; in your case with getting things level, doing things manually works pretty well. I recommend getting metal feel gauges and be sure you check the center of your bed as well. I like using the .1mm feeler, start with the center of your bed then go to the corners, once you get things pretty close don't forget to change the z-offset by -.1mm to account for the feeler gauge thickness this way the nozzle just barely kisses the bed/very slightly above the bed. The printer/gcode is set to print at .2mm(or whatever your layer thickness is) so the nozzle gets brought up to the appropriate height. But if you leave the offset post feeler gauge, then its adding the .1mm feeler gauge distance to the print height causing it to not stick to the bed properly.
As for the issue we believe we're seeing, under extrusion. Check your e-steps again and run a flow rate calibration. You can probably find some premade gcode calibration file, you might just have to edit the file and change the print temp. I believe the Marlin code for it is M104? You can find all you need in that aspect with a quick Google search for Marlin gcode commands
Filament can be weird/hit or miss. I've used Sunlu filament with no issues but people have told me that it's junk. So it could be the brand or just bad roll
People down voting this comment is ridiculous. You're just relaying what people have told you before. The purpose of the post was asking for help and you were essentially just asking for clarification on information you previously learned. People need to let up others trying to learn this hobby
Z offset will be in your printer settings. Under "Prepare", you may need to flash a professional firmware onto your printer but I'm not sure. It's been awhile since I've used stock firmware.
And when leveling I think it's good practice to heat up both the hot end and bed due to heat expansion possibly moving some stuff around
Both are good. Really personal choice is my understanding. BL Touch is cheaper but uses plastic probe, so it's my understanding that it has the potential of being less accurate over time. CR Touch is a metal probe so durability isn't really a question and I feel like I remember seeing somewhere that the sensor in the CR is more precise than the BL? But don't quote me on that.
BL Touch is like $8-12 or something on AliExpress. CR Touch is like 20-25 on Amazon
I would say adjust your z offset but it looks like your getting a good squish. Might be a little too much of a squish because it does look very thin but that's a separate thing. Just back off your z offset in .1 increments.
But definitely attack the adhesion first. You may want to increase your bed temps in 5° increments. Depending on the filament, my best luck has been 60-65° for pla
Edit/addition: its also possible to be a slightly warped bed and if you have the money for it a BL/CR Touch could help alleviate some of those warped bed woes. With that being said tho, fiddle with the offset and temps first. See where that lands you. If you're looking for a temp fix, you could try using glue stick or hairspray to help with adhesion. But that's more of a bandaid fix imo
Can this subreddit be renamed to r/HowManyTimesADayCanWeAskTheSameQuestion
Okay, thank you so much for the info! I suppose I should look at getting some thick gauge extension cord for a second wind unit, huh?
Of course!! I'm glad everything is working! If you have any more bed leveling questions, feel free to dm me. I've been thru the layers of hell with bed leveling
Neither yet, but eventually
If you're able to spend the money, I recommend a magnetic PEI build plate. They're $10-20, normally closer to the 10-15 mark.
Like other comments have said, make sure your bed is level and make sure your gantry is level as well. That's something that I've personally had endless problems from.
I would also say try removing the painters tape once your bed is leveled/trimmed. And be sure to adjust your offset by - .1mm to adjust for the tape thickness All of my adhesion issues were gone once I had my stuff all leveled. Even with PETG I had zero issues
Appreciate it! Fortunately(or unfortunately) Ive had so many issues with gantry sag and dual z leveling and have gotten...kind of... the hang of it correcting that. But I will still be keeping that video saved as a reference!
Alright, I'll be sure to do that. I imagine the increments are different, .25mm per change or .5mm per change for a retraction test?
Let me know how it goes! I did the same thing lmao, got the linear rail for the thang so I'm happy to see I'm not the only one with that thought process
Okay gotcha. Hopefully others will correct me if I'm wrong for recommending this, I would say that it looks like your lead screws might be out of sync. I have dual motors on my v2 so I can't give any advice as to how to get those lined up aside from use the depth gauge on some calipers and try to get the left and right of the gantry within +/-.1mm of eachother
I don’t know what im doing
ender3