Personally, I run obico for my Voron 2.4 since I don't want to deal with any of these shenanigans lol
Alright so you really expect us to magically know what the problem is without photos, videos, slicing parameters etc?
Here's the question.
How do you know if it isn't moisture, when you haven't dried it? And which filament is it?
I mean cat litter, sorry
BTW, while drying the silica gel, do you smell anything?
Yes. PLA also creates fumes, just lesser than ABS/ASA. I believe BBL uses some sort of spreadcycle on their steppers, so at low speeds, it will make really, really cartoony sounds.
Yes, but the air gets constantly exhausted. So any built up moisture in the air, from the filament, will get exhausted. This feature also exists in filament dryers, but just the expensive ones. A used air fryer will set you back 15-20$. A Sunlu S4 is like 100 bucks or even more. And in some areas, there aren't any resellers and shipping is way too much.
Firstly, if you have it in your bedroom, invest in an air filtration unit that uses activated carbon and can filter VOCs. If not, make an enclosure.
And try it yourself. We don't know what settings you are using. What do you mean by 'slow' etc,
Don't buy a dryer.
Instead, get an air fryer.
And build a drybox, eg: Drybox v2 on printables.
Air fryers dry filament much faster, constantly replace the air, and make less noise.
In that case, are you still running the 8 bit motherboard that came with the ender?
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/troubleshooting/pockmarks.html
Or you are using an old ender 3
Costs more for the base resin.
At that price, you would be better off building a voron trident, a ratrig vcore 4 or a Bambu labs x1c.
Maybe tell the name of the printer?
Mechanical keyboards are repairable.
If you can't, get someone in computer plaza to do it for you.
You don't need glue with pla on a pei sheet.
Wash it with dish soap and water.
And use the textured side.
The printer didn't work before hand...
I wonder what the issue could be.
Recently, the US placed sanctions on all Mornsun products. LDO uses Mornsun power supplies, so I beleieve they are working to replace them with Meanwell ones.
If you can't get an LDO kit, get a formbot kit, and ask them to not include the CB1, and buy a CM4 yourself. Thank me later.
Lesson learnt: never buy a first gen BTT product.
NOT AT ALL.
If possible, ASA. If ASA isn't an option, then I would go for PETG.
ABS yellows and cracks under UV exposure. But, PETG is a lot less heat resistant compares to ABS/ASA.
ASA is like ABS but with uv resistance and some mildy easier to print.
Take a lighter and burn the end. Make sure to extinguish it.
Report back if it catches on fire, melts and drips, or you burnt your entire house down.
It isn't overpowering; except for the fact it makes my eyes pain and gives headaches without a filter.
A lot of so called ABS filaments are mostly ABS blends. Try out Sunlu ABS, Polymaker ASA or ambrosia ABS and see how that figures out.
IDK what is wrong with my acetone vapor set up
3Dprinting