It's also a local IP that's not routed outside the LAN.
The touch screen was disabled until recently, only with a recent update will it work. I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of people didn't know it's a touch screen.
Look for IDEX printers, there are some around. Only two colors with those, though.
The 3D Printing Professor made a video explaining what the Bambu printers do. The cut leaves a significant amount of filament still in the nozzle to be purged out. In order to reduce waste, some shenanigans with retractions using modified gcode can be done, but Bambu Slicer apparently only allows the user to do so much, and most users won't be modifying their gcode.
The Mk4 quickly rams a bit of filament through the nozzle, which cools it down a bit, then stamps it to form the tip and avoid wisps, then starts changing the color. Prusa made a blog article describing the process.
Some waste is still needed in the tower, but stamping is significantly less wasteful, especially if you use the default settings on the Bambu. TADA 3D Printing observed that at default settings, the purge on Bambu printers is quite significant. The poop alone, ignoring the tower and the print made, was more material than the print and tower combined of the Mk4 / MMU3.
Well multi-toolhead does increase the cost of manufacture due to having to make all of those toolheads. Also on smaller size printers limited space can become a problem.
I think Prusa did a good thing by investing R&D into their stamping method to minimize waste in the MMU3. I actually expect other manufacturers - possibly including Bambu - to try to replicate it. It's a much better system than the "poop" that Bambu printers currently have.
Color blending is a hard problem to solve as filament doesn't like to mix. Most attempts have created something more akin to co-extrusion rather than color mixing.
I think for budget printers and small printers you will continue to see single nozzle color systems. You will likely see multi-toolhead systems in larger printers.
But yes, you will probably see more AMS clones as manufacturers scramble to replicate Bambu's success. Creality's upcoming system looks pretty similar to the AMS. But longer term, I think that cutters will be replaced with stamping.
I weigh my filament with a food scale to figure out how much I have left, so g for me.
Yup. Basically standard procedure for me if I plan to print anything that isn't PLA. I'll usually print from the dryer as well.
Programmer, eh?
Take a look at OpenSCAD. Modeling by writing code. I use it for some projects.
OpenSCAD also has the ability to set up a customizer for the part so you can allow a user to make different variants, which can be used with Thingiverse so someone can select some options before downloading the STL.
Might be the brand.
Carbon Fibers can be cut in different lengths before being put into the filament, so some brands might clog nozzles more than others.
I've used Prusament PC-CF with my ObXidian, it doesn't clog.
You can still print very slow like prusa
Depends. Prusa's machines are basically all input shaping now, so they aren't really that slow anymore. It sounds like you're using old information to make your point.
I'd bet on the XL for fast color prints. No need to wait for load/unload of filaments, no need to wait for poops. Just a quick swap of tools.
I'm willing to bet if you upped the settings in the slicer, even for single color you can go much faster than stock speeds on any Prusa. The XL could probably go as fast as any Bambu with some tweaking, considering it's CoreXY.
Also there is the SL1S. I think we forget sometimes that Prusa makes a resin machine. Can fill the entire volume in 3 hours, no matter how complex the print.
Prusa are stuck with the same bedslinger since forever Prusa fan be like :"Omg big innovation from prusa the new mk4 have a bigger and colorful screen and planetary gear!!! It was worth it waiting years!"
The planetary gear is actually quite nice. I've thrown all sorts of filament at it and it works really well regardless. Besides - Bambu fans seem to have no problem boasting about stupid stuff too.
. . . and at the end of the day, what's important is we make things, no? We are makers, and what is important to me is what I can make with it. The printer is a tool, not a religion.
I have no regrets buying a Mk4, and I have no regrets buying the MMU3 for it. I know it's a reliable machine, I know I can get good support, I know I can repair it myself, I know it will last years, I know it will do what I want, I know it has an open ecosystem, I know I can upgrade it and modify it with little trouble.
Not surprised at all that a Prusa would perform better with PETG. That's what their printed parts are made with.
Most printers don't support color out of the box. You are always looking at a higher price to have a color system than without one, so most people just buy their printer without it.
Bambu, the most popular consumer level manufacturer, has an easy to use color system known as the AMS. I don't know how popular it really is, but it seems to be popular enough - but as stated before, the color system does add to the price. The big drawback is it generates a lot waste and can be pretty slow to change colors.
Prusa just released the MMU3, which is very promising, but it unfortunately requires modifying the printer. The Mk3 was never designed for a color system, and they missed the mark when trying to design the Mk4 to be used with a color system. This unfortunately means that it's only available as a kit - and it's only available separately, they don't have bundles.
Creality is advertising a color system coming soon. Creality isn't known for quality, though, so who knows if it will be reliable. At the time of this writing, it's not available for purchase yet.
If you look outside the major manufacturers, virtually nobody else supports color. I'm sure most of them are scrambling to figure it out behind the scenes, and we're surely to see more announcements in the upcoming year.
So - today the answer is no, most printers don't support color. But it will be interesting to watch in the future, as color printing seems to be gaining momentum.
There is a parametric side to Blender, actually - geometry nodes. A bit more programming-like and a bit less CAD-like, but still technically parametric.
I use FreeCAD. Right now I'm using RealThunder's fork, but they will be releasing 1.0 soon (hopefully...), which will fix some major problems.
Educational institutes are rather infamous for making their own rules that wouldn't actually hold up in an actual court of law. When you make something, it's yours, unless it's a work for hire.
I find that to be odd, especially for the PETG - I've personally used ObXidian with PETG without adjusting the profile at all.
ObXidian should be able to use the standard profiles with no adjustment to the temperature, as it's designed to have similar thermal characteristics as brass. It's not supposed to act like a steel nozzle.
Maybe you are actually getting too hot - if you outrun the cooling, you can get heat creep and that can cause clogs as molten plastic cools to the sides of the upper part of the nozzle.
I would suggest making sure the entire length of the nozzle is clean and using the same profiles you would use for brass nozzles.
I'll probably get a bit of flack because some people see them as less techy - but if noise is a key factor, maybe consider the Prusa Mk4? It can be pretty quiet.
In the USA, some softener is in our detergent or water supply (many households have their own softner unit for the whole house) and we have rinse aid available if needed. Just go with whatever is the norm for your country.
As far as I know, whether something is free or paid is not part of the actual copyright law itself. Infringement is infringement.
It can, however, affect things like whether or not another company thinks its worth it to pursue legal action, or what kind of damages can be awarded.
Personally, I would never recommend selling or giving copyrighted items to customers buying from an online store, unless you have written permission or a license.
For some great information about materials - including which sheets are best - check out Prusa's materials table: https://help.prusa3d.com/materials
Can be a few things:
https://www.simplify3d.com/resources/print-quality-troubleshooting/stringing-or-oozing/
Also looks like inconsistent extrusion, make sure nozzle is clear and in good condition.
I hear a lot of badmouthing the MMU - and they always seem to come from people who used the MMU2. The MMU3 seems to be focused on fixing all of the problems the MMU2 had.
It really seems like the MMU3 is massively more reliable than the MMU2.
Removed my downvote - I misread it as switching to Cura because of this, oops...
Magnetic PEI sheet.
Mmkay, have fun with that! Try localhost next!
Very high tech.
3Dprinting