Cool idea! I remember this from my youth. Definitely gonna have to print this.

There's AT LEAST 44 people at those games. Come on...

And yes, money will speak greater than most other things... that's why I said "all other things being equal."

If the Lions offer him $400K and the Bears offer him $400K, the fact that he would get to kick in Ford Field for half his games probably gets him with the Lions.

If the Bears offer him $450K and the Lions offer him $400K, then the money probably lands him in Chicago.

The advantage is that he's familiar with Ford Field. He's had success at Ford Field and might feel most comfortable playing here. He also may feel like the fans here appreciate him and would appreciate him even more as a Lion.

To be 100% clear: Those are NOT huge advantages at all. But all other things being equal he may lean towards a stadium he knows and has had success in.

Yeah, there are sooooo many factors involved here. I think the biggest hurdle is if Bates is even a "Lion" type guy. If he a guy who lives and breathes football? How important is that trait to the Lions in a kicker? It's 100% clear that Holmes and Campbell value attitude as much as talent... maybe even more so. There's no guarantee that Bates is someone that Holmes and Campbell would be all in on. (That's not to say that they wouldn't be interested, I'm sure they are! Just not necessarily back up the Brinks truck interested.)

The next biggest hurdle is where does Bates want to go? As someone else said he's a Texas guy so maybe he wants to be close to home? Now the Lions do have, imho, three advantages: 1. They're a good team and an attractive place to go right now. 2. They play at Ford Field... where Bates has had a LOT of success and so may be drawn to come back to the field where he made a name for himself. 3. The Lions do NOT have a kicker they seem to be in love with, so Bates has a very legit shot at winning the job, even if he's not perfect in training camp.

But those three things are by NO MEANS overwhelming things. Even if all three of those things were very important to Bates, I'm sure throwing a few dozen more thousand dollar bills his way would over come them.

Okay, I know it's only one play, but I absolutely LOVED how Arnold just stuck like glue to the receiver and seemed to pick up cues by looking at the receiver to know when to turn his head and look for the ball.

Thank you Ryan Santoso!!

I disagree, but I think it's because my illustrations aren't showing the design very well. Let's see if this illustrates it better.

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Now this is a super narrow, short "drawer" but the "rails" and as well as the walls of both the drawer (Blue) and shell (Black) are dimensionally accurate. The drawer would have to clear 2.5 mm for the tip of the drawer to pass the tip of the shell (4mm - .75 -.75). It would require a lot of moving, tipping, and wearing out of the plastic before that happened. Is it possible? Sure... but highly unlikely given the relatively small size and relatively low weight of what's going in these drawers.

You are correct that the shell/box is printed laying on it's back, so fillets there wouldn't be a print quality/support issue, but the drawer are printed flat on their bottom, so fillets on there would be an issue.

In the end your point that I should have gone with less than 0.75mm gap is probably accurate. I was worried that with the crazy geometry that only 1mm total gap would be too narrow but I think I probably would have been okay with doing that now that I have some printed. But I think I'll be okay with the .75 gap per side.

That works. I just recently changed my setup. Previously I had my AMSes in an area where I could only open the top like 85% of the way... I could swap out the spools but I have put them in at a bit of an angle to get them in. Just like two days ago I got a new desk setup and have the AMSes under the desk on "shelf" where I can open them all the way.

I'm guessing that you can't open the AMS easily in there to swap out filament, right?

What purifier do you use? I'm thinking of getting one myself just to be on the safe side... I'm not too worried about it but it can't hurt, right?

Oops, I didn't notice that "this" is a link. A little different, but certainly similar.

Total horizontal depth is actually 4mm. It's 2mm out, then back to center, then 2 mm in. That little snippet doesn't show the 2 mm inset but if you look at my original picture it has it. I probably could have gone smaller, but I wanted enough room for all the angles to allow a good fit.

Fillets wouldn't be ideal here as the point of this is to allow a very smooth, even print without using supports. Rounding fillets would pass the 45-degree angle and mean either a less than perfect, smooth print or needing supports (which could also lead to less than smooth prints).

A slide on front would only sorta help as many of my drawers also have internal dividers so they would have to be slide on too... which is doable, but I prefer printed in place dividers when possible as these will be much more solid.

Slide on rails? Hmmm... I'd have to think about how I would make something like that work. It's an interesting idea.

Honestly, the best solution that I only thought of while talking with others in this post would be to just put the rails at the bottom of the drawer.

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Life is weird sometimes. I try my best to communicate well with stuff like this... part of my job is tech support and I'm so aware of people giving minimal information for me to try to help solve their problem so I usually end up adding more details when I try to talk about something to others.

Obviously I have in my head a very clear picture of how big these are so my gut reaction is just: "Yeah, but these are small, so it's not a problem." I'm just assuming you can see in my head and know the scale, which you can't... at least I hope you can't. (Quick, what number am I thinking of?)

The box shells are 137mm wide by 240mm tall (5.4 by 9.4 inches), so pretty small scale here. Mostly for small pieces and parts.

What I'm trying to say is that the drawers will only drop so far because of the small distance between the drawer and box wall.

Yes, gravity will still be trying to pull it further down, but it can't move further down unless the drawer or the box are pushed out of shape. This shouldn't be an issue for me because I don't intend to put very much in the way of heavy stuff in these drawers. Beyond that there will be horizontal walls on the outside of these lined up boxes which will prevent (to an extent) the walls from being able to bulge.

In general this is probably a terrible idea for large and/or heavy drawers/objects. But for small, light storage this should work just fine.

Yes and no... I mean yes the drawers will sit a touch low as there is a small air gap on both sides, but I accounting for that with a slight air gab between the drawer and the bottom of the box. Also they can only slide so low as the ramps are in opposing directions on each side.

As someone else pointed out these ramps will also try to push the box sides outward if you have too heavy of stuff in the drawers, but as I'm only putting light stuff in them this shouldn't be an issue for me.

0.75mm gab on both sides. It's kinda hard to see in the picture because it's small, but it is there. I've already printed two drawers and two boxes so far and the drawers slide in and out smoothly.

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You are 100% correct... and I don't care! :)

Seriously though, you are very right that this method will cause there to be pressure pushing the "boxes" to expend horizontally. But this won't be a real issue for me for two reasons:

First, I'm putting these in a snug, confined space where all the boxes will be lined up next to each other with hard walls on top, bottom and the outside edges. This won't completely stop any expanding, but it will prevent expanding from happening significantly.

Second, I don't plan to put very much in the way of heavy items in these drawers. These are mostly going to be just odds and ends... parts for my printers, storage for this or that... nothing dramatically heavy.

So yeah, for certain situations this is a VERY BAD plan. But for my situation it will work very well. (At least, I strongly suspect it will... who knows... maybe 3-6 months from now I'll be back here eating crow saying how it failed me.)

Yes and not really, and not yet. I designed these for a very specific spot in my home office so they're "4 units" tall, which is exactly the open space I'm putting them in... there's a top and a bottom "shelf" they are going between. Given that my outer box is exactly the height needed, I didn't do anything to make them stackable... I'll never be putting one box on top of another. But the drawers themselves are semi-modular in that I could make them single, double, or even triple or quadruple high as needed. Right now I'm only planning on few double height drawers.

As for pictures... I don't have any yet. I'm still working on printing everything... I just started this a day or so ago so only a few pieces done.

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Final note and then I'll shut up... this is probably the easiest way to add this into a design. Put in short construction lines and then dimension them all the same (or make them all equal and dimension one of them). Then channel your inner 3-year-old and play connect the dots with regular lines.

Also, in case anyone is curious, the little "protrusion" on the front of the drawers is for a combo handle/label. The protrusion is of course 45 degrees as well so that it doesn't need supports. The handle just slots in and can be swapped out if I change what's in the box.

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I'm sure I wasn't the first to think of this, but I did have this idea and it's worked very well for me so thought I'd pass it along to others.

I'm making some simple drawers to fit in a specific area. There's a basic box that servers as the holder and then 4 drawers that stack up and slide into the box on "rails." I wanted to be able to print the drawers flat so that I could included any sort of dividers that I wanted, but this presented a problem if I went with just a straight lip on the edge to have them slip into the box. If I printing laying flat then this horizontal piece would either need supports or it wouldn't print smoothly and likely wouldn't slide in an out of the box smoothly.

So I came up with this plan. The box sticks out 2mm (half the thickness of the wall) but at a 45 degree angle. Then it retreats 2mm, again at a 45 degree angle from horizontal, then returns to normal. The wall of the drawer does the opposite. It retreats 2mm at a 45 degree angle, then extends 2mm, then returns to normal. This provides a relatively large "rail" for the drawer to ride on, but requires no supports to print smoothly when printing "flat."

Now I can do any sort of printed dividers without those needing supports either.

Edit to add: I want to point out u/VestEmpty raised a very valid concern for this plan. This shape of "rails" with create a force that tries to push the box sides horizontally. In my particular situations this is a low concern me as my boxes will be confined horizontally and I will not be putting heavy objects in them. BUT, if you use this design with the intent of putting heavy things in the drawers it very well could be an issue for you. Plan accordingly.

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(Edit to clean up my grammar... I really need to proofread before I post!)

There may be better ways to do it, but this is what works for me:

2D design: I start by creating a vector drawing in Inkscape. Just much easier to start with complex drawings here. Text is added in here too. Then I save it as a dxf file (version 14).

3D design: I import the dxf file into OnShape and proceed to extrude each piece of the drawing here as new. This gets SUPER tedious for some of these cards! For my cards I extruded each piece 0.22mm. I think draw a rectangle on the back and extrude backwards 0.18mm for the "back" of the card. Export this as a STEP file.

Painting: I now import the STEP file into BambuStudio. In here I can use the "fill" tool to paint in the individual extruded pieces on the top. Again, super tedious for thinks like the 10 of Pistons and 10 of RedWings. Ugh. But once everything is painted, I just flip the card 180 degrees so painted side is face down.