Somebody called the cops!?! WTF? Did they think you were terrorists with lasers?

Glad it’s fun though. My L7 w/ the 90.2 really is a laser. And w/ the 26800s it lasts.

You are not wrong. I got it 40 years ago and it was miserable. I always filter now. And the whole ‘flowing water is OK to drink’ is B.S. I got it high up in Olympic National Park drinking water from a cascading steam.

Once Giardia is in a drainage, it remains. The mammals in the area continue to replenish it every time they drink and then poop.

3 Acebeams here (P16, L19, L35) no issues.

Nope, same deal — body tube orientation, extender placement — didn’t make any difference w/ the L6 either.

The only thing that seemed to matter was ‘all parts screwed together tightly’ until there is no more tightening to be done.

Weird that my lights seem different.

u/Professional-Righter : Glad you got it working. I don’t know about you, but it was a real Ah Hah! moment when mine finally came on.

Small powerful lights get hot quickly — there’s no getting past that. So yes, highest output is very limited.

If you look at runtime graphs (e.g., in 1lumen.com reviews) you’ll see that nearly all lights turbo output drops precipitously in the first minute or two after turn-on.

There are drivers which can mitigate that somewhat, but generally at the cost of reducing max output.

The ‘Holy Grail’ light would have very low moon output as well as sustainable high output with the ‘perfect’ beam pattern (according to its owner) in that owner’s favorite tint.

I’m pretty sure that light doesn’t exist.

I’m gonna go with:

It’s the best $16 thrower in my collection.

Cooler color temp would deliver more punch … maybe enough to change your opinion. We generally perceive cooler light as brighter given the same lumens. Also, cooler temp emitters tend to push more lumen for a given input vs the same emitter in a warmer temp.

Honestly, more power/throw is gonna cost more. And to get more sustain, you’ll need bigger/heavier to absorb more heat.

Convoy 21H w/ 3° optic might be close to what you want.

He’s talking about the threads on the head, tail, body tube and extenders. Disk/spacers can go either way.

BTW, according to all the pics, the end of the body tube with the ring goes towards the head, in case that matters on your light.

Here’s my post when I was struggling. At the bottom there’s a pic of my L7 running w/ an extension at either end of the body tube.

L6 vs L7 maybe?

I’m getting one of the ‘flawed L6s’ in a few days, so I’ll be able to answer that.

This isn’t consistent w/ my experience. My L7 ran on 26800s no matter where I put the extenders (both together on one end or the other, or one at each end) nor did it matter how the body tube was oriented.

I don’t know.

I guess make sure the L7 runs w/ 26550s and make sure your 26800s work in other lights.

For me it was clearly a connectivity issue. As soon as the batteries were in snuggly (no rattle when shaken), mine worked.

I had the same issue and solved it.

There’s a ring on one end of the body tube. It needs to be screwed all the way down to expose max threads. Once I did that, it worked for me.

Order is:

Head-disk-battery-disk-battery-tail.

Doesn’t matter which way the body tube goes and doesn’t matter where you put the extenders — both on one end or the other, or one on each end of the body tube.

Pretty broad paintbrush there.

Between me, my four boomer sibs, my eleven boomer bro-/sis-in-laws, we’re 14 - 2 anti-MAGA.

My sister has gotten all religious and my bro-in-law has always been an asshat.

The rest of us boomers would vote for most anybody over the orange turd.

I managed to ‘de-dent’ some batteries with some small forceps .

Work them under and then pry up gently, working small areas at a time.

Meaning don’t buy a drone? Or buy some other drone? Which other drone?

This driver: 22mm 6V 8A driver for XHP70.3 LED,input 3-4.2V,output max 8.25A

This MCPCB: XHP70.3 HI high CRI R9050 45W 3000 Lumens SMD 7070 LED Emitter

Correction — R70 on Vonvoylight,com. XXXThere don’t seem to be any boards w/ R70 emitters — guess I’ll have to play tint lottery.XXX

But driver & reflector not there, so AE for that.

Thanks again. No trouble finding the 20mm MCPCB & 22mm driver. But for the reflector I found this:

1 piece Smooth reflector for L21A L2

L21A, L21B, same reflector?

Sorry to keep poking you, but … where should I go to learn more. For example, MCPCBs for that emitter seem to be different sizes and different voltages, as are the drivers. I imagine that’s driven by the host, right? So is there a repository of information about different lights somewhere?

MCPCBs seem to be 16mm or 20mm, and 6V or 12V. Drivers are 22mm or 30mm and 6V 5A or 8A.

Also, consensus seems to be that HI is better than HD for tint-shift.

Thanks again, again :)

Thanks — didn’t know if there was a performance difference.

Thanks to both of you.

The expirement was worth it — I’m definitely going to get a warm mule. The D4K presents a gorgeous wall of warmth with the optics removed.

The point about the lower power from the boost driver is well taken — clearly the case w/ my D4K.

Thanks! Couple questions:

R9050 vs R70 for the 3000K 70.3?

Also, 12 groups vs 4 modes?

Cool!

Now do Paris … City of Light