- That's the EU's deadline for all manufacturers to bring back a removable battery to all their phones. The only thing I'm okay with giving up my SD expansion slot is to get a removable battery instead. 0% to 100% in 15 seconds!
Why was the system not overhauled in this manner:
The job site is a government site.
The connection between employee and employers is never direct. The government employee gets the work history proof+other documents, and the employer's open positions.
The applicant (job seeker) pays for the cost of keeping\maintaining part of that system and so does the employer.
For the first 2 years, the salary goes from employer to a government account under the employee's name, and to the employee (again, with a commission from both sides to pay for that system).
If an employee proves they paid money to the employer, they won't be charged, but will be deported. If an employee gets caught in this scam, than they are charged, fined, and deported. An employer who get caught gets charged, and are no longer allowed to run a business that employees anyone but themselves (sole proprietorship, with themselves as the only employee).
Count your blessings! Less battery drain, less strain on the starter, and less wear on the engine.
As long as there's no orange i-stop light, or any other warnings except that, there's nothing wrong... Just external conditions\settings haven't been met to initiate a stop-start cycle.
I'm here because I own a Santa Fe (2010). But I'm a former Mazda master tech, so I'm helping people on Mazda subs.
Unfortunately, no. It's not like the Honda\Acura or Chrysler ones, where you can fool the temp sensor.
If you have a turbo, then there's no CDA... But then there's more frequent maintenance to worry about (and the turbo... But Mazda's turbos are the most reliable I've ever seen, except for the MAZDASPEED line).
Oh, they definitely do that for everyone. Every pet insurance is like that. When the pet reaches 10, it's going to get to a $200-$400\month territory.
Do a full generic test panel ($450) with an online company, but make a "mistake" and write the chip number and all the names incorrectly (in case they share info with the insurance companies). If it comes back clean, self insure. If it comes back "dirty", call and ask if these conditions are covered, and if they are, get the insurance.
We self insured, and changed the amount every year according to their online quote. We ended up spending about 12K out of pocket in those 10 years (on everything the insurance would cover, I didn't count other medical expenses like checkups, vaccines, teeth cleaning, etc), and that account was worth a little over 20K after our dog passed (interest is a nice thing when it works for you and not against you).
If you didn't already, change ALL fluids. Diff, tranny, transfer, brake, and coolant. If you're in the North, rustproof (with oil, not undercoating).
I don't want to start a crazy debate here, but I've seen great results with Motokote. The only worry, is the acidity over time, so how I use it, is I add it 1000 miles before an oil change, let it do it's thing (coat the metal surfaces), then I repeat every 5 oil changes. This will reduce the risk of the esters in the oil becoming corrosive through extended high heat and humidity exposure (because the product is in the engine only 1K miles out of every 25K), and will leave only the coating on.
If you're really handy, do it for the diff, transfer, but not the tranny fluid. Make sure you flush them after a few thousand miles. I did it a few thousand miles before I needed to flush anyways.
If you're covered for it. The liability isn't yours anymore... That's the entire point of the insurance policy. Just make sure the policy covers anything and everything.
I wouldn't trust a renter with that. Get yourself a pool guy that comes once a week (or do it yourself), get a liability insurance for it on your own (one that covers tenants), and bake that into the price.
A mis-maintained pool can cost you a fortune later on, and a liability claim can cost you millions.
Hi. Former Mazda master tech here. Actually, you got the most reliable CX-5 you can get (2017 and older). Suspension work is considered maintenance. A control arm is maybe $250 (all in) at a private shop. Your car can go to 350K miles easily without any major breakdowns. I can guarantee you that at least 80% of the 2018+ won't do that (at least the cylinder deactivation ones won't).
Keep it! Or if you're really worried, get a low mileage 2017... But doing that will end up costing you more than an engine or tranny replacement, so I would advise against it.
That's also true. But let's say we live in a messy traffic county, where there's almost 0 parking, and people park on sidewalks even though it's not legal. Would we try and litigate against the police not enforcing the laws, or just park on the sidewalk ourselves as well, because there's a 0% chance we'll get a ticket?
What I'm trying to say is, if you can't beat them, join them. The rules don't really apply if they're not enforced. Just like there are hundreds of "dead rules" in states in the US, that were written on the 1800s.
Yeah, but according to fanboys, this is all just make-believe stories that didn't really happen to anyone. Guess the Theta II was all a fairytale as well.
Never said it was please re-read the comment.
It doesn't make less sense than rooting for it to go to, as if they'll cash in, they are now on the same (or more) inflated market.
For once or twice a year, it's not very smart to choose based on charging time.
Mini splits are more economical to run and to install than a duct central unit from scratch.
Why would Toyota fanboys be here? Are you going to Toyota subs and making stuff up?
Stop taking things personally. You didn't invent Hyundai's DCT, and not the CEO. Unless you're heavily invested in Hyundai's stock, this shouldn't bother you.
I'm a Mazda fanboy, and 70% of my posts on Mazda Subs are trashing their cylinder deactivation issues and crap infotainment problems. If we want things to become better, sitting and praising their mistakes is not the way to get there.
Next thing you'll tell me the Theta II problems were trolls too.
If an agent actually told you to hold, then you definitely hold! Your agent makes money only when the deal is done... So they're putting more on the line than you are right now. There will be other houses. Don't play into their tactic. I would counter with a specially formulated offer: 720K valid for 24 hours, 705 valid from hours 24 to 72 hours. Buyer retains the right to retract the offer at any point before seller accepted.
Put them on the clock and see what happens.
NAL.
Would be easier for your friend to just put that money into opening an illegal store. If no one enforce it... 0 risk and high reward, right?
You don't, unless you want to block the airflow path.
Of course. This was an edge case. All I was trying to convey is that the difference between the properties is now lower. In less "edge" cases, it helps, and in edge cases, it doesn't hurt.
Use chat gpt to rephrase.
Don't sell it then. Let's say you'll be on your 3rd engine by then... Just see how long it will last you. If you got 12 years total out of the car, you're still ahead, as you saved 7K in the purchase price. 7K in a GIC @4% for 12 years is 11K, and you won't sell a used 12 years old Corolla for for 11K anyway.
I'm on the same engine and tranny on my 2010 Santa Fe (182K)... But it's a V6, not a Theta II engine. So far, no major breakdowns. Other than suspension work (Quebec roads), I had to replace an alternator, one window regulator, and one door latch. Everything still works 100%. The sunroof rails started squeaking\grinding lately, but the sunroof still works normally.
Advice on a new car purchase
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