I don't personally think square is the best shape for a stovetop pan, regardless of material, but I will point you to the only square copper pan I'm familiar with, which is the tamagoyaki pan, which is commonly available in 1-1.5mm tinned copper (the Nakamura Douki one is 1.5mm), and most commonly in small sizes, but you can find them up to 24cm per side, or even larger.
I can't say anything that hasn't been said already, but I agree that the shape of the handle base, small steel rivets, the flared rim and lack of wipe marks in the tin are characteristic of vintage Baumalu, which you sometimes find with hammered sides or no markings.
I expect that many of the people who got tired of masks...also got tired of talking about them. It's been 4 years, after all. So the thread itself is self-selecting.
This thread popped up in my feed for some reason, even though I have no idea what this sub is. I'm just popping in to see what's going on in here.
The dog is cute, but the pickup truck is a gem.
It's supposed to be flush, but your experience is far from rare, unfortunately. Quality of the lids has taken a hit in recent years.
The flip side is that a lid for a skillet is fairly useless, so it doesn't really matter. You might put it on to retain a tiny bit of heat to finish cooking an omelette or keep some food warm while you finish cooking something else. It doesn't need to seal steam in while braising low-and-slow. That's what a saute pan is for. Most frying pans don't even need a lid.
Ooohhh, yeah, that makes sense.
Wait, what? Isn't it a liquid syrup that you add to a glass of milk?
There's a second shut-off in the front yard. They came around to my neighborhood to put one of those discs on top of mine last winter. No idea how it works.
Cutting those shrubs and small trees would be super easy to do yourself in an afternoon. Processing and hauling away all the wood is another story, though. $2000 sounds steep to me.
I believe you'll get a somewhat more reliable result without adjusting the thermometer if you are measuring oil temperature and not metal temperature.
The main difference between nonstick cookware and pretty much everything else (stainless, cast iron, copper, carbon steel, enamel) is that you will need to learn to cook with cooking oil. A fine mist of PAM spray is often nowhere near enough. And please try not to get caught up in the boomerism of referring to cooking oil as "fat." It's as much fat as the motor oil in your car is gasoline. Yeah, it's going to add a couple extra calories to your food, and yeah, chemically it is a fat, but the majority of the cooking oil either stays in your pan or splatters onto your stovetop. If you cook an egg in 2 tablespoons of butter, you are NOT adding the nutrition value of 2 tablespoons of butter to your egg--maybe 5% of that at most. The oil is there to help your food fry and prevent burning.
So, yes, you should be using a cooking oil when cooking meat. The water droplet test is also about when to add *oil, not food. Once the oil has been added, you can cool the pan temperature before adding food. There's not just one temperature at which stainless can be used. Although you can technically cook meat without oil if you wait for it to release on its own, and some meats will render their own oil, like bacon, if you start with a cold pan, these are advanced techniques, and I would recommend starting with the basic procedure before trying them out.
I don't count myself when I say this, but you're talking to a very informed group of people about copper cookware, many of whom may be remembering that they gave you advice on a first try, "experimental" copper pan less than a month ago, so when you price it at almost 3x Mauviel prices, 2x Duparquet prices, people are going to wonder how it can be 3x better than a Mauviel. Not trying to pour water on your sale, but if you can address, for example, the gap in reputation and experience with copper, or the uneven appearance of the hammering, which differs from traditional French cookware, it may help with your sale.
I have one (I paid a lot less than $80). It's OK for bare spots, but not that much better than a rake.
Just boil it and add salt and butter. Don't overcook. Once it wilts and darkens, it's ready to be strained, seasoned and served.
Reading your post, I'm glad everything worked out for you.
If you want a cheat code: Cast iron/carbon steel for the pan, and butter for your cooking oil should work at a variety of temperatures, and the butter will let you know if the pan is too hot.
The space is in desperate need of a door.
What is the maker, and how thick is the steel?
Small carbon steel wok after three weeks of almost daily use
carbonsteel