The pellets are crossmsan super point 17 grain .22
Sorry. Didn’t see the notification. I picked up a Ruger. It had decent velocity and came with a scope. And .22 over .177 seems to make a difference in force on impact. You lose a little velocity but make up for it with mass.
If I can find my tin of pellets I’ll tell you what I’ve been using. They’re either pointed or something similar to a hollow point but I know they were available at Walmart. I needed everything fairly quick so my selection was limited to what I could get same day.
So I’ve had very different results.
I’ve used the traps you’ve mentioned but Duke traps are a lot better. Instead of an angry raccoon I walk out to a calm raccoon looking around at most but generally standing still and an integrally suppressed .22 pellet rifle ($100ish?) at Walmart has never needed more than one shot shooting from my deck across the yard. One shot in the head. Nothing but some twitching. That’s generally aiming between probably the eyes and ears. The .22 pellet rifle is quiet enough to not be heard inside the house.
Raccoons really like chickens and ducks so it has been an issue.
Enjoy your weed whacking
Hey we have the same table saw. They aren’t bad for what they are but I wish they didn’t have the notch cut out of the side.
Good luck
It’s fine. Just turn the system off for a month and he’ll die of old age.
In commonly available calibers? Yes. Apparently there’s 2.7mm kolibri and .22 hornet but you’re not likely to find either. So while center fire cartridges are possible in a similar size they’re unlikely unless you step up (in diameter) to .25 acp in which case you’re probably better off with .22 lr or .32 acp. .25 and .32 acp are also getting harder to find.
Wiha is good for that. They’re lighter than most of the good stuff and still have decent handles.
Assuming it’s in the US generally scents without actual food as bait are legal. Actual bait may or may not be depending on state and the target animal.
I’ve seen UV lights advertised for sanitation in returns. I’m not going to speak for their effectiveness or say for sure that’s what it is though.
I’m about 7 hours late to this and it’ll still be somewhat vague but I guess knowledge would be understanding the theory of how something is supposed to and should work. Wisdom would be from experience knowing why it works the way it does and whether or not it is likely to go the way it should theoretically.
In example: I may know that turning a bolt clockwise should tighten it. Through experience I’ve run in to reverse threaded bolts in certain applications or I may notice that the bolt is leaning so if I tighten it, it will be cross threaded. I may also notice from experience that the bolt is getting hard to turn before it is seated so it may be about to break.
I currently have a mirror held on by that and large black zip ties from harbor freight.
That’s the thing. There is no plastic or rubber. I wasn’t sure if it should have something on the wheels or not. I’m hoping the old cracking paint on them is what’s pushing the blade in to the guide but if that’s the case it seems like there would be more adjustment on the guide. I’m probably going with a wire brush and sanding to remove the paint and what rust there is then just painting over the wheels although I may soak it before painting.
I’m well aware. I just wanted to get it spinning before going any further. So far there’s no play in the bearings so they’ll stay for now but now that I know it’ll function I’ll be pulling both wheels and sanding them down. Luckily the body isn’t too bad. The wheels and guide are the only things I have any real concern about right now.
I can’t view it but the caption has what I’m asking about. The right side of the guide is making contact with the blade no matter how I adjust it, no tires in the wheels and I’m not sure if I need them and the table could be a little larger so I’m not sure if just building one to go on top of it is the way to go or not.
Ignore the mess behind it. Most of that had been there for well over 20 years and it’s time for it to go.
I had a belt drive push mower with a hole cut out of the front for those situations. I need to put a new motor on it. It was almost as good as a walk behind bush hog.
The first “you” in the title was unneeded. I’m guessing OP tried to correct a mistake made by autocorrect and missed that word.
The other equipment mentioned would be a nail apron or tool belt in addition to whatever other tools would normally be carried in it. Without the tool belt the guy in the picture is using a C clamp as a hammer loop.
The title is trying to say that nobody would know the guy in the picture forgot his tool belt.
If I missed something let me know. I just clicked to find comments talking about how uncomfortable the handle on the clamp would be.
Projectile pooped on in new white uniform pants while about to get out of the truck to pick up a to go order. I called and asked them to just bring it out and gave a large tip.
That’s what Etsy is for. Surely someone makes what you’re looking for.
I’m thinking like the equivalent of gimp shop for drafting but another 3d drafting software.i think there was something in the same vein but I’m not sure what and it was. May have just been the instructors telling us to use keygens on actual cad at the time. I haven’t looked in to an open source cad alternative since probably 2012 though.
They may very well be made by somebody like umarex or crossman but licensed by Ruger. I’ll check the model when I go back home.
Humanely, quietly, and safely killing a trapped raccoon.
Hunting