Lots of people here seem to really underestimate what 3d printed parts are capable of.
I think my primary concern would be the screws, and how they're holding the parts down into the board (especially given PLA's tendency to suffer from material creep over time). But I'm also not going to assume you haven't already thought of that.
Do I recommend that you keep a 3d printer in your bedroom? Nope.
Do I have a 3d printer in my bedroom?
...Yep.
It looks like they're using an ender 3 clone. I'm not saying ASA is impossible to print on one. I've done it in the past, but it's not fun either.
PETG is surprisingly weather resistant though.
That might be the case if his hobbies were a secret, but he posts the stuff he makes on multiple social media sites and has built a reputation on that.
Brass olives don't sound very tasty
Of course not - they're olives.
It's included as a standard feature in OrcaSlicer, (it's based on superslicer and Bambu Studio).
All I see are mosquitoes
It's counterintuitive but more walls = more shrinkage and a higher chance of splitting (there's a larger temperature gradient). The same applies to infill.
You don't really ever see vase mode prints split like that.
It appears your hot end thermistor probe isn't connected properly. The second picture was significantly more helpful than the first one.
Filaments all have slightly different flow behaviors, so you may need to make a filament profile with adjusted flow rate (not esteps in this case).
It looks pretty even though.
Improper temperature is another possible cause (more likely in fact).
Z seam will appear on every object, as it's a thing that appears at the start/end of each perimeter. A lot of objects are designed to hide the seam in surface features, but a flat/smooth/rounded object with no sharp edges is always going to have a visible seam somewhere.
You can adjust retraction and linear/pressure advance, etc... To make it less visible, and it will be more pronounced if your flow rate is off (but that looks fine in your picture).
You can paint the seam on that inside corner in the second picture though, and that's what I would do in this specific situation.
They're a fairly common part
It sounds like a fan blade is hitting something.
When I print large batches and something starts to fail, I run some painters tape across it and its neighboring pieces to prevent it from taking out the whole batch
The symptom is underextrusion. The cause could be any number of things but there's no information here to really give you an answer.
But hardware, firmware, and slicer settings are things that can cause that.
If it's an Ender 3, I'd suspect it's the end of the Bowden tube (where it meets the nozzle) beginning to degrade.
I've heard thinned Bondo works well, but I haven't tried it myself.
Filler primer and additional sanding should also work.
YTA for posting rage bait
Nevermind! I thought I saw another print in your post history but I was distracted and had clicked the wrong thing. There should be a slicer setting for perimeters or wall thickness! It looks like you printed this with that setting turned off.
You disabled walls/perimeters on purpose, right?
Edit: Damn, I fell for the bait. I was weak.
Your nozzle is too far away from the bed on the first layer.
This OP's only post with no karma, which doesn't necessarily mean it's not a throwaway account, but doesn't earn any authenticity points either.
But yeah this one sounds like rage bait.
There's a chance their window is not 100% flat.
If it's slightly concave, it could focus the light to a point.
Neighbors windows are melting my car. Need ideas
DIY