Each roll of filament is 1kg (weight). So 2kg free means 2 free rolls.

If you can smell it, it’s going in your body. It will likely take a long time to truly affect you though.

The part you need is called a thermistor, I believe Anycubic has a quick YouTube tutorial or video on the website

That’s good! Hopefully your appetite improves with enough time but keep in mind it takes MONTHS for your ferritin to go up, so keep with it. I hated taking my iron pills early on, but oh my goodness the absolutely amazing improvement after 3 months is crazy. My hair is pretty again, my nails don’t break, I don’t want to sleep all day, and my allergies are near nonexistent.

Do you have any nausea from the supplements? A lot of people experience nausea with iron, which can definitely lower appetite. I initially had lower appetite, but it increased once I’d been taking them for a couple months and my iron started to get into healthier ranges.

Woohoo! That’s great news, happy to help!

I think the .3 allowance will work quite nicely

Have you tried Bambu PETG? I’ve found that it works better than the other brands of PETG I have for my P1S. I also slow my print down a bit.

I’ve also had better success with the textured plate. The high temp one would have adhesion issues sometimes.

I like your groove edge idea. I recently made a 2 part planter with a groove to secure the parts together more easily and the one mistake I made was not sizing the groove down a bit to make sure it fit properly together. As long as it’s sized correctly, I think it’s definitely bis idea. Not to mention the absolute satisfaction of 2 parts clicking together.

Side note-TPU is my most favorite filament because it’s so unlike the others which is neat. It’s flexible and nothing sticks to it. I both hate and love how hard it is to paint. You should definitely try it out at some point.

I would cut the object so the top flat part lays flat on your bed and the walls are printed separately, then glue together. You could also print the walls with a very thin layer of the roof and print it upside down so you have more surface area to glue the lid on.

If you don’t like that idea, print a piece that fits underneath the lid but won’t stick to the print (I like TPU for this). Once your printer is nearly to the top and about to start printing the flat top, pause the print, place that support piece in, then let it use that as a ‘support’.

I buy in bulk of 1k gloves (500 pairs) and go through them in about a year if I’m printing pretty regularly. I also wear them when I paint or spray paint, and sometimes while cooking as well.

I had an insane increase in appetite when I started taking iron supplements. It took me a little bit to realize they were the cause. I switched to taking them in the evening before sleep and that fixed my appetite issues (I was taking them during the day before). I know taking at night decreases absorption, but I am at a loss on what else to do.

Oh duh, I need to pay better attention lol.

The only time I’ve seen the hotBED error was when I was cleaning the plate with IPA while the printer was heating up and it didn’t like the change in temp I was causing. If you weren’t touching it while this happened, then I think you’re right that it’s a wiring issue. Maybe try emailing Anycubic and see if they’ll send you a new hotbed; they’re pretty good about giving replacement parts.

Is your computer using wifi or Ethernet? I use Ethernet but have to switch to wifi connection to connect to my printer. Also needs to be on the same wifi extender as printer if you have multiples

Does the temp stay at 195 or does it change?

Resin fumes are harmful, so if you plan on doing this, do so in a well ventilated area and wear a respirator/goggles.

Additionally, Resin will warp/degrade very easily at high temps, so I’m not sure how much use you’ll get out of a stencil. As an example, if I hold my heat gun pointed at supports for more than 10 seconds, I can crush the supports into tiny bits with my hand because they completely degrade from the heat.

You could print the stencil with resin, make a mold of it, then cast something stronger?

If firmware doesn’t work, replace thermistor

Check your junk email folder

If it doesn’t have a lot of background stuff, you can drop the image in 3d builder and it will convert to a 3d image. If that doesn’t work, I recommend an SVG converter (they have a bunch of free ones online)

Also this guy created a program that specifically converts images to Christmas ornaments:

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/4mOlIB689X

Nope, but I would bet there are 3d models out there that people have made on yeggi/makerworld/printables that would fit various cameras. I personally just zip tied my camera to a pole in my external enclosure.

Oh I totally get it, I was obsessed with cleaning mine when I first got it and 3 years later I’ve since let it go lol.

I used it on my yellow photon mono x and it wiped the black lettering off, so I imagine it would also have taken off the yellow coating if I continued too long. I tried IPA as well and it just didn’t seem to truly get it clean. Not to mention the PPE needed with acetone. Instead, I ended up printing a pair of handles to superglue to my cover and only touch those handles when I’m contaminated by resin so it stays off the cover. I’ve also got in the habit of wrapping masking tape around my tool handles so I can take it off and replace when they get too sticky/dirty. It won’t stop splashes, but it will at least keep your resin from your gloves off the lid

Its default on Bambu too and also prints terribly; it’s such an outdated infill at this point

Increase the wall of your print so it doesn’t hollow out small areas like hands and feet (probably something like 5mm). Create a large enough drain hole to insert a small UV light inside the print to cure it (I usually put mine on the back or somewhere it is less visible. Lots of IPA inside print to wash out resin. I use a syringe to push ipa in. After also dunking it in ipa tank a few times