I'm starting this community for those that have anycubic printers. I have 2 neos and have upgraded them bot to the hilt with mostly factory parts. Total amount so far per printer is around 250. It has dual z-axis and a ceramic-copper heat break. It has stainless v-whrels and upgraded firmware.
I upgraded an Anycubic Kobra 2 neo Y axis.
I wanted to be sure and clarify, the y axis upgrade I did was a kit for an ender s1.
I used an ender 3 y axis upgrade kit. It doesn't fit quite right but I drilled and tapped for my motor mounts and had to drill the riser plate to fit the rail block but it works. Now I can design the adapter for the motor and limit switch. The rail lines up for the most part but the adapter for the motor that I'm designing will compensate for that distance and it will allow proper placement of the limit switch. That's the first adapter. I also need to figure out a way to use the new plate. It's aluminum so it's a lot lighter. The lighter your bed the less chance of skipping when printing at high speeds. I sometimes print at 200mm s. I generally run at about 100mm s constant.
I'll be posting my progress here soon on the Y axis upgrade. I'm also looking into X axis upgrade. I Have 2 Kobra 2 Neos and so far they work great. I've Been running them constantly and upgrading as I go. If interested just comment here.
This was done to the Y axis. No more bed play at all.
I upgraded the wheels on my Neo a month ago to stainless and it wore my V rail out. So I looked for an upgrade to linear rail for neo. The closest thing I found was an upgrade for an ender 3. I bought it and installed it. I had to modify it a bit but I have a second neo that I'm going to do the same thing to. I had to drill and tap the new rail and it doesn't line up quite right so now its my mission to print an adapter for the rail frame, motor, and limit switch so no drilling or tapping has to be done.
Btw, I'm using a ceramic heat break. It separates the throat from the block threads and only allows the block to heat up not the cooler.
I've got the same issue, although I'm using Prusa. My filament is Overture and it runs hot. It says between 230 and 250. I started out at 225 and it gave me different results, gloss/matte combined. I turned the temp up to 235 and it all became glossy. So I'm going to print a temp tower and see where the transitions occur. I'll Start at 220 and go to 240.
I bought the stainless wheels and installed them. after a month of printing I can see the wear that is uneven on the 45 degree angles. My thought is to mod to linear on the Y axis. The stainless wheels are great on the X and Z axis but the bed weight with fast movement causes uneven V-Rail wear. So I'm going to attempt to upgrade to linear on my Y axis.
This is my set up. I printed blocks to lock the desk to the wall. No movement at all. Bought the desk on Amazon, 150 dollars.
Had a similar issue, my extruder motor died. It would get stuck just for a second or so then no e then stop then move. I discovered it by asking the menu to extrude. I replaced the motor issue sol ed. It would also stop feeding filament about an hour into a print then would stop extruding because it crushed the filament almost identical to yours
I would say heat and filament issues. Most likely filament. I just had a similar issue and the filament was wet.
We all have the capability, we just have to find a way to apply it that makes each of us happy or at least content.
I'll say this, I bought 2 neos and have had nothing but good results so far. I've upgraded a lot but if you take the time to know your printer inside and out then you'll be able to get it to print on a regular.
I want everyone to feel welcome here. I have a vast knowledge of electronics and devices. It doesn't matter if you have a different printer brand, I still may be able to help. So please feel free to comment and ask what you will. Good printing all!
Just take the extruder apart and clean and make sure everything is in proper order.
Those screws are for the wheels don't use those, use the screws that attach the bed to the wheels and shim the bushing.
It's all in your extruder. If you disassemble it you'll find filament inside the gears and your ptfe tube is most likely bad. Make sure that you heat up your nozzle before changing the tip and let it stand for five minutes on preheating and then snug the tip again.
Just upgraded my kobra 2 neo with dual z. It prints fine and everything goes up and down correctly with the z axis in the menu but when I try to calibrate it the motors lock up then free and turn but then it says calibration abnormal. I made sure the wires are right and t homes just fine.
If it can, those things are finicky. Just adjust your z off set
I also took the time to modify my print head. I put in a bimetal/ceramic heat break and custom ptfe tube to guide the filament to the hot end. Once set up, it prints flawlessly. If you would like I can do a series of pics with instructions.
That looks like your x axis not z. The z is not moving at all.
Rattle
AnetA8