SRAM is best on road rage fest!

anyone know if i can use the gx 12spd shifter with an x7 rear derailleur?

thank you

I don't have an AXS controller at hand right now, but this question haunts me:

On a 1X (Rival AXS Mullet, but shouldn't matter) setup, can I assign the "combined-action" (pressing both levers, normally used for front shifting) to one off the ANT+ Function buttons, to - for example - switch pages on my Wahoo?

This is possible with the bonus buttons on the new RED and (partially) with wireless blips. Both allow more actions (i.e. other virtual button presses, etc.) but for starters I'd love to be able to switch pages.

OK so I scrolled down quite a ways and never saw this posted. Ans fyi this post will be a mix of a simple question, nerding out and miscellaneous rambling. So feel free to skip, answer the question or dive into the rambling.

So. Basic question is how long does / did your XX1 cassette last?

I have an XX1 cassette, chain and chainring. The XX1 chains last a long time per the chain checker tools. I replaced the original chain about halfway through second season (2022) even tho it showed minimal stretch. Not even close to .5. But shifting improved. Candidly I can’t recall if I chained it since (I will say there was a big stretch of miles in 2023 when I ran a smaller chainring and different chain (but same cassette) for a big bikepacking trip. But anyway here we are today and the chain shows almost no stretch but I put a new XX1 chain on anyway (with the idea being preserve the cassette). But the new chain skipped. I messed with cable tension. Even started over and reset limit screws and dialed in cable tension. Was good on a home test ride but then skipped under high load on the trail. Me being the geek I am I had brought my old chain and did an on-trail swap. No more skipping. apparently the cassette is just worn out. I admit I’ll probably just continue to run the old chain for a while since the cassette is bad. I mean why not. Then replace cassette, probably the chainring and put the new XX1 chain I already have back on.

Normal answer would be it lasted X seasons. But what’s a season? I rode mine for the full 2021, 2022, 2023 (which was a big year for me) and now half of 2024 seasons. Let’s call that 3 1/2 seasons, where each season is let’s say 25 weeks at 5 hours/week. Ok 3.5 seasons X 125 hours. 437.5 hours. Now we get super extra geeky. 1/4 of that is coasting downhill. Let’s just round to 330 hours of actual use. For a pretty expensive part.

And the XX1 cabin. Total life only about 200-250 hours of use.

Weird (kinda maybe??) when you compare to other mechanical items. Your car engine. Lawnmower. Heck my refrigerator (compressor) is probably 20 years old.
But a mountain bike drivetrain lives a hard life exposed and used in dirt. Even tho it’s dry here. And I wipe off the chain-cassette after almost every ride. Just kind of interesting.

Ramble off…..

Anyway curious what kind of life people are getting from XX1 cassettes.

I want to purchase Sram Code RSC disc Brake set in a couple of days, does anyone know if they will be already bled and ready to fit & use when I recieve them...?

Does anybody have any experience of rear cassette random slipping ?

Randomly the cabin will slip on the rear cassette on my Canyon CFR. I have tried aligning via micro adjustments, checked hanger alignment, changed hanger all to avail.

Really appreciate any advice !!

Hi SRAMers,

I know similar questions have been asked around this before, but I’ve not managed to get the info I’m looking for.

I’ve got a 68mm wide BB frame shell and installed a Hope PF46 BB which gives me an assembled width of 91mm (width between the outer washers). This is apparently standard for road crank sets, which generally have an assembled width of ~91.5mm, with the remaining gap filled using washers.

Now, my new Rival 1 cranks, with 30mm spindle, seem just a tad too short, at just under 90mm internal width. This means I can’t torque them up as required, as they compress the bearings and ain’t nobody got time for that. No additional spacers or washers being used.

Something feels off here. The bits are all brand new and it seems too close to be correct for it to be incompatible… They’re all deemed “road standard”, so I feel it should work.

Any thoughts? Thanks

I just built up a Tarmac with the new Sram Red component set and it's frequently dropping the chain to the inside of the crank.

I'm running a SRAM RED AXS Power Meter Crankset (2 x 12 Speed) (48/35T) and new RED 10-30 cassette.

Here's how I setup and dialed in the system:

1. Set up front derailleur with dedicated (red) FD setup tool. Rear derailleur was in innermost gear for the setup procedure. Side note: After using the setup tool, on the biggest gears (48x10), the gap between chain and FD is around 4mm. Much bigger than the 0.5 - 1mm recommended for fine tuning. When I actually bring the gap down to around 1mm, the chain will not properly engage when shifting to the big ring and just skip around a bunch.
2. Used Braze on support wedge and double checked perfect alignment with the FD setup tool.
3. Dialed in low limit screw to leave 0.5mm gap between FD and chain in 35-30 gears

Despite following the directions as closely as I possible can the chain will frequently drop when shifting from big ring into small ring. I’m amazed this is still a problem on a $5000+ groupset.

What can I do here to keep the chain from dropping? Is this just an issue that I have to contend with?

Is there a specific one for SRAM red or is it all the same?

I see many price differences but not really an explanation. I need 160mm 6 bolt

I've just been cleaning my Force cassette and noticed the black rubber bands between the smaller cogs. One was ready to break so I've just removed it. Are they really necessary? They can't be that important as they're only thin rubber and are going to break eventually anyway. Just wondering what others do. Thanks

How can I add a Quarq power meter to my Force D2 chainring (CR-FRC-KIT-D2)?

SRAM customer service tells me I can use an AXS Power Meter Spider (PM-AXS-SPDR-D1) but I clearly don't see how this is possible.

Any advice? Thanks!

CR-FRC-KIT-D2

I can’t figure it out - the button won’t depress and therefore I can’t get it to sync with the rest of the system - and can’t ride!!!

My axs (mtb single) has some issues on the 2nd and 3rd smallest cog. All other shifting is like a knife though butter! It’s a new chain and cassette. Tried adjusting but no luck🙁. Power of the masses…anyone else has/had this?

Hi, Looking for advice on these as first time getting an electronic shifter..

Do you need the app to use it or can these be connected without.

Reason being, seems lot of negative reviews of the app not working so wanted to check how this all works..

Thanks

So, I bought multiple SRAM Eagle PowerLock 12s (Flattop) at an LBS today. When I noted that these are for the Eagle transmission and I ride Road AXS he said 12s is 12s and that they are compatible. Naively I believed him, but a quick google at home seems to reveal that they are not compatible.

Is this really the case? Can I still use them or do I need to get new Road ones instead?

Edit: Link to an Image of the Lock I bought

Edit 2: Here is an actual picture I took of the ones I've got:

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I've been thinking about getting some maven silver for my e-bike. Since most of the time I have access weights on it and downhill travel. But all the websites say that it comes with a bracket to go up in size of caliber. My default size is 220. And I'm not interested trying to jump into a 250.

I can't find anywhere and the sram customer support goes to deadlink..

Does anyone know the default pattern or bolt hole measurements to the caliper?

I have currently 13 mm bolt hole spacing. Shimano saints brake system.

Is possible to run a SRAM red chain on a xx1 group set? Both are 12 speed. The only difference I’ve seen is the flat top part on the red chain links

A couple of months ago I started a new bike build (for TT and triathlon) and I went for an 1by setup with the new (designed) Force. The bike runs fine but I had the suspicion that the powermeter tends to underreporting at higher power levels.

Today I did some tests: First I ran 4x3 minutes on my Kickr v6 with my older road bike, equipped the spider based quarq PM for 2by-Force AXS. The values from the Kickr and the spider-PM are virtually the same, under 1% deviation through all phases of the workout. Then I switched bikes and in comparison the axle-based newer PM shows quite a different behaviour.

I did zero offset first and started into the same workout. First the PM was overreporting a bit in the warmup phase (167W instead of 160 from the Kickr) but when I did some efforts the power values went into underreporting. The first 350W-set was right on the money, second set drifted into 340W average and the third set was 334W only.

Any ideas what to do? Should I open up a ticket at Sram? Does anyone know this behaviour?

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