Get your bike fixed here

Well, we finally had to do it... With 28,000 users, it's finally time to write some rules.

1. Play nice - This shouldn't need much explanation. Breaking this rule is a good way to get banned.

2. Stay on topic - if your reply isn't about how to help OP, we don't want it. This is not the place for jokes, sarcasm, or obviously wrong answers. People reading this may not realize you thought you were being funny.

3. Questions Only - Unless your post is a question about bike repair, it doesn't belong here. We don't need to see pictures of your latest build, or that funny bike that rolled into the shop. There are other subreddits for that.

4. "Is this cracked / safe to ride?" posts are not allowed. - If you have to ask, don't ride it. We probably can't tell from a picture just what condition your bike is in. Take it to your Local Bike Shop and ask them. If it's carbon, they're probably going to tell you to replace it.

If you have a small question that doesn't seem to merit a full thread, feel free to ask it in a comment here. Not that there's anything wrong with making your own post with a small question, but this gives you another option.

This thread can also be used for thank-yous. You can post a comment to thank the whole community, tag particularly helpful users with username mentions in your comment, and/or link to a picture to show off the finished result. Such pictures can be posted in imgur.com, on your profile, or on some other sub (e.g. r/xbiking)--they are not allowed as submissions to r/bikewrench.

Note that our [FAQ wiki](https://www.reddit.com/r/bikewrench/wiki/bikewrenchfaq) is becoming a little more complete; you might also find your answer there, although you are welcome to post a question without checking there first.

My son is going to start xc racing but his Woom is not tubeless compatible. I was going to try the gorilla tape method to seal the wheel. The rims are unfortunately Schrader. I found Tubeless Schrader Valve - 44mm for cheap but ideally I'd like a Schrader to presta valve. Does that exist? I found these Wheels Manufacturing PSS-1 Presta Stem Saver but not sure if that is tubeless compatible. Any major flaws with this approach?

I bought this CycleOps fluid trainer off of Craigslist for $50. It included the riser block so I thought $50 total was a great deal. When I looked at it I checked that the wheel spun properly and that the yellow knob worked. Everything seemed fine so I went ahead and bought it. A few days later when starting to set it up, I realized that the flywheel is crooked against the metal frame of the trainer. All of the pictures below were taken level with where the bike fits in, so you can see how the metal wheel is crooked. The wheel has no play, it is very much fixed in place. There's no visible damage anywhere else nor does anything else look bent out of shape.

Is this meant to be this way? Can it be fixed if not? I tried fitting a wheel (no tire) in the trainer and even in its most stretched out position the edge of the rim hits against the metal, which I think may be a bad sign.

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If not, check out Bike Farmer on Youtube. No, I am not him. I just like learning and he makes it seem very straight-forward. https://www.youtube.com/@bkefrmr

I have sram rival 11 speed 1x on my lauf. I want to go with a mullet setup using a 10-52 cassette. Can I put a 12 speed derailleur cassette and chain on without changing shifters?

I've been riding seriously for about 12 years (50-200 miles a week since 2012) and have always had rear wheel issues. For context I'm a pretty big dude (6'3" 240 lbs).

Historically I've had semi custom wheel sets with 36 spokes built up that have lasted ... Ok? Maybe 1-2 years out of a wgeelswt before I start breaking spokes. I work at an online retailer and recently have gotten a couple different gravel wheelsets on employee pricing--Easton EA70AX and a Reynolds ATR. Both of these wheelsets have gone out of true almost immediately and then when retensioned and tried, the Easton had the spokes pull out of the rim bed. The warranty replacement rear wheel did the same thing. The Reynolds broke a spoke shortly after being retensioned and then after having the spoke replaced, has again lost tension quickly (a non-driveside spoke loses tension. I can't tell if that's the cause or symptom of the wheel going out of true).

Easton have been really cool about warranty replacements, just sending me a wheel with no question. Whereas Reynolds wanted me to pay for shipping to their HQ (hence just having the spoke replaced locally).

Anyways, long story short: am I just fat and can't have off the shelf wheels? Is there anything I can do to stop these issues? I'm pretty good about having new wheels retebsioned after a few weeks, and I ride a lot but not THAT much, but I have never met anyone else who goes through wheels like I do...

So, suggestions? Thoughts? (Prayers?) Should I try tire inserts? Do I just HAVE to ride heavy and/or stupidly expensive custom wheels? (Do I need to learn to build/repair my own?)

Thanks for your thoughts.

Does anybody know what is causing this? I can’t find anything about this. The recent update is installed and I have checked to make sure connection is good and all batteries are charged.

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I've just gotten an old BOB touring trailer as a grocery hauler for my commuter, but there isn't clearance with the rack I currently have. Does anyone have any ideas, short of getting a new rack with clamps to the seat stays? All the racks of that type I've seen would heavily cut into the weight tolerances for the rear rack I currently have.

Note that the actual skewer is different than the quick release one pictured, I just recreated the issue to snap a picture.

I've read over a dozen posts about chain cleaning and I'd like to see a shorter version of what you guys are doing.

Let's say this is a Too Long DID Read post.

Here is what I do:

1- Dry rub with a rag (for surface gunk)

2- Double toothbrush DIY tool rub dipped in soapy water (for inner gunk)

3- Dry rub with a rag

4- Double toothbrush dipped in break cleaner (optional, for very gunky stuff)

5- Dry rub with a rag

6- Apply lube of choice ( 1 drop per link)

7- 5 min timer

8- Dry rub with a rag.

Does it make sens to you guys? Would you swap the order?

What is your routine?

Situation: Friend has a Cannondale m700 that he uses only on the trainer. Over many hours of pedaling, most of the components have just rotted away from all the sweat. I have most of the parts sorted except the cranks and bottom bracket.

Original to the bike was a Shimano BB-LP26 bottom bracket with a 110 spindle and 68mm English threads. This is a square spindle bottom bracket

We would like to convert to 11 speed with road and not MTB gearing.

The owner already has a very nice Shimano 105 crankset which is idle and can be used.

Can a bottom bracket be fitted that will allow the use of the Hollowtech cranks? If so, do you have suggestions or specs to look for? This question has appeared before but I have found no answers.

If we have to stick with the spindle type crank, I understand the Shimano UN300 is the replacement. Is there a decently priced crank with 2x11 tooth chainrings that can be suggested?