is this mesh ok for a 350x350 build plate 290x290 printable area
i have tried to flatter it but this is the avg result i get i have a 3 point z axis (similar to voron trident) bed is 10mm plate of 6082 aluminium (not machined😬 didnt work under my budjet)
Best answer. My mesh range is 1.3mm but it’s a 950x1450 bed and first layers always go down perfectly.
0.3 range isn’t amazing but it should be totally serviceable especially on a larger bed like this.
Klipper can compensate for a lot more range that that. OP's bed is 350x350 - a range of 0.3mm is really very good.
Get a big pc uninterruptable power supply.
See that scale z-max bar? Drag it all the way right.
This was mine at the start of my last print. With bed levelling compensation turned on it was pretty much a perfect first layer (I was printing a large volume case with pretty much a 20x20cm square at the start.
Klipperised Ender 3 S1 pro
idk how even with this i get pretty good results the print stick with no problem i just want to know if that would work properly and now i have the results
looks like you are missing some points
im new to 3d printing and i have no clue what that means😅 i just built my first 3d printer as part of my clg project now i want to know everything 😂
I have a cheap ender clone that I klipperized, I can get great first layers with variations anywhere up to 1mm. The lowest I can get my deviation is 0.25mm, which without bed mesh compensation is terrible. But this is why we have mesh compensation.
The flatter your bed is, the more square and consistent. your parts will end up though, so if your tollerances for your printed parts is less than 0.2mm in the Z direction you'll have some work to do.
Is that a banana or your printer is just happy to see you
😂just saw it there was a whole jackfruit on my build plate thanks for the advice 😝
Acceptable mesh? One that matches the bed within 0.25 layer heights.
Acceptable bed flatness? That's more complicated, not enough to throw your acceptable tolerances off, or that you notice if you have mesh fade enabled.
The important factor is the range/variance.
The purpose of the bed mesh is not to make a pretty graph for you to fret over, but rather to produce a basic map of the bed height so the software can automatically compensate for the irregularities in it.
Typically the higher the variance the less capable it will be if doing that successfully.
0.03ish is not "great" but it's likely within the capabilities of your machine to compensate.
That said, looking at your graph it appears a lot of the variance is due to the front-left side being slightly lower so attempting to better level (tram) your bed should help reduce the variance.
It also would be prudent to watch the meat operation to ensure none of those corner probings are going off the bed or too close to the edge.
actually the bed is 370x370 the probe will never get out of the bed the print area is just 290x290
and i have tried to use z tilt (i have a 3 z axis similar to voron trident ) i haven't been able to get it to work properly idk y the distance just keeps getting larger and larger every try
but still the prints are good no complaints
i wanted to know if they are kind of okish
Yours should print just fine. 0.3mm is what bed mesh can easily circumvent and it's also why it exists at all.
right now you are a -0.102 so it's not that bad. ( Edit- you take the highest point so 0.101 that take that value minus it from -0.203 the lowest point or 0.101-0.203=-0.102)
Nope.
The difference between 1 and -2 is 3. The difference between 0.101 and -0.203 is 0.304.
What you've done here is ADDED a negative, (-0.203), not subtracted it.
If high was +0.203, and low was +0.101, you'd be correct.
My bad I did do that lmao my brain doesn't like to work some times, thank for pointing it out u/Nytohan
However much you can print on, and live with having your bottom layer off by.
A thing some people seem to forget is that mesh leveling doesn't remove unevenness, it just bakes it into the bottom of your print by making it conform to it.
Anyhow, should be fine, our big 1200x600 has a variance of around 1.4mm and it's doing fine.
What layer height are you printing at? Imagine printing at 0.2mm layer height and you have a variance of 0.3. What is that doing to your first layer? Yes mayyyybe you could put down a first layer with klipper compensating, but then the bottom of your part frankly isn't flat. I personally aim for sub 0.1mm variance on my 300mm bed
im not actually sure abt how flat prints come out its a 10mm plate of 6082 aluminium just cut to size and squared the plate size is 370x370 and the build area is only 290x290 the mesh is of the al not the removable plate so not sure how to make it flatter I'm not gonna machining for sure and machining is way out of my budget please let me know if u have any idea
It's probably not the bed that is the issue, it's potentially the bed flexing under thermal expansion, or some probing issue throwing measurements off
I like under .1 but I use Kamp, easier to achieve that.
how to do it do u have any reference that i can follow or any tutorial im new to 3d printing
If you just search for KAMP it will take you to the site with tutorials. Pretty easy. YouTube has some install tutorials as well.
If you go here, https://github.com/kyleisah/Klipper-Adaptive-Meshing-Purging
Go here and read about it. There are some steps to follow that aren't too hard, but you'll need to be familiar with:
- Printer.cfg file in your Klipper
- Rooting your device to ensure you have access to your file system. I use the Creality Sonic Pad.
I would say it's more moderate level than beginner, but if you read it closely and follow it, you'll be ok. I messed it up the first time, but that just means it didn't work but didn't break anything. Just means it wasn't showing me the new stuff or doing what I wanted. But once I figured out the file system it was all good to go.
Well I suppose I shouldn't be too upset with the 0.05 mm flatness In my ender three print bed, of course I spent quite a few hours surfacing it to get those results
How is your bed a mobius strip?
Looks good for printing a rainbow..
Use a glass from a picture frame.. glass is flat..
To me, acceptable is anything between the 0.02 to -0.02 range. Everything else is adjustment warranted.
What print surface do you use? And how do you messure that? And at wich temps?
That sounds lile a very tight tollarance.
I worked as a machinest in the past and 4 hundrets of a mm is something that you would not be able to reliable messure with a BL-Touch.
At least i think so.
We had parts at my old job where they would only fit such a tollarance when they are at 20°C 0,02mm is very much.
At 20°C a 200mm pice of aluminium would messure 200mm at 50°C it would be 200,1386mm
(Please excuse my grammer and any typos, english is not my first language)
I'm currently at 220 PLA/60 bed temps with that measurement. I have those measures using Klipper's automatic leveling. The only manual effort here is the very slight knob adjustments up until the preferred range is obtained. I even try to get it ot +-0.01 at times, just because I am OC on stuff like that.
Forgot the type, but iirc, its a PEI. It's the default print bed that came with Neptune 4 Pro.
When I get a bed mesh iam fine with anything between:
-0,12mm and +0,12mm
On my cheap ender beds that is good enough for me.
I aim for lower, but that is not always possible.
Although i dont trust the messurements the BL-Touch takes.
¯\(ツ)/¯
There's this program called Klipper that automatically compensates for a bed's lack of flatness. Maybe you've heard of it? It's all automatic and in the firmware once setup. /s
The attitude that "anything between the 0.02 to -0.02 range" is a holdover from when printers didn't have the ability to compensate for that. Frankly, I doubt that any manual method can accurately adjust below 0.1mm repeatably. Depending on how big the print bed is, a total range of 1-2 mm is perfectly adequate.
If you think you can manually adjust a bed to less than 0.02mm range, then I'd like to see your gauge R&R and statistical study to prove that. (edit - grammar)
I am using Klipper's automatic leveling. Once the automatic leveling completes, I manually adjust the knobs slightly, then runs the automatic leveling again up until that range I'm talking about is obtained.
As for that -0.02 to 0.02 range, I am just on the OC side. Wanted to be clear that NOT ALL is on that range, but rather about 95% of the offsets. Would very much prefer everything at 0.00 tbh. Did you even saw the first two words in my comment?
😬can u share a photo of the mesh i was kind of happy with 0.3 but not after this comment
i was mainly targeting the four corners but I can't seem to get rid of those outliers.
An acceptable mesh is the one you can print on and you get a decent first layer.
Still, that doesn't mean you can reduce the overall range between the lowest and highest points. For example, your top left and bottom right points look like they need some adjustment to flatten out the bed.