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Meermin's E is equivalent to a US D, so it should work reasonably well.
My understanding is that meermin e sits between a uk E and F? Im not getting a clear understanding from their website
This is what I've been reading. Their table shows that they are not narrow, but also describes a wide fit as a UK F? Which is wrong afaik as thats the standard sizing for most second hand shoes you see for english shoemakers. Loake for example only do F and nothing narrower
UK sizing widths do not seem to be particularly consistent. Tricker's uses 5 fitting for their regular width.
In any case, most people who buy Meermin do not consider them to be particularly wide.
Thanks thats good to know
How are the sizes in comparison? I got a crockett jones Boot size 10.5 and im thinking about another shoe in a different color. Meermin/Carmina or redwing. If there wilnbe a nice offer this week.
What lasts?
Hi,
Am a newbie to the thread and goodyear welted shoes in general so forgive my ignorance.
Background: i bought these Cheaney oxfords about 2 months ago and noticed these small holes appearing at the outsole. The white particles are probably debris as it makes sandy noises as I walk.
I live in a tropical climate with frequent rain (this was taken right after I walked in the rain which caused the damp spots that made the holes more apparent). The rest of the shoes are fine.
My question is if there are any fixes on how i can prevent further damage?
As always thanks
This is normal for leather soles. Let them dry out before wearing again, but the only things you can do are a) don't wear when it rains (which I'm guessing is difficult), b) get a rubber sole protector added by a cobbler, c) don't worry about it, wear out the leather soles, and replace with rubber.
Anyone ever order for Myrqvist? Looking at their MÖLLE loafers but I have no idea how to size. I'm a brannock 8.5 which is what i wear in most sneakers (New Balance 2002r) and a 7.5 in leather shoes (Viberg 2030, Grant Stone Leo and Alexander) if that helps
Your regular dress shoe size should fine with them. If you happen to be in stockholm you can also visit their store (I think it's still open).
Looking for some sizing advice on White’s x Baker’s Bounty Hunters with a soft toe on the 55 arch ease last. Was sized years ago on a brannock device & was an 8E but I suspect my feet might be a bit wider now with age. My second toe is far longer than my big toe which complicates things a bit. For reference boots below size & fit: White’s MP-M1 us7.5D - Hella tight & a tad long. I make them work with thin socks & deal with the width squish cause I love the look of them. Redwing Beckman 9016 us7.5D - pretty good fit, slightly tight width wise. Oak Street Trench Boot us8 - Pretty close to perfect. Truman 79 last us7.5EE - great in the forefoot but quite a bit of help slippage. Viberg 2030 last 7E - Pretty much perfect in a structured toe but a bit squishy in the unstructured toe & could prob go a 7.5.
Edit: I also have a pair of Nick’s Urban Loggers in a 7.5E that fit great.
Any advice is greatly appreciated fellow boot heads!
Send them your measurements, get it right, for this kind of purchase it's worth it to me
Are you buying them used or second hand? If not and you're ordering custom MTO from Baker's, then definitely send your tracings and measurements into Baker's along with using any info you get here...
Edited to add: Remember everyone has different feet and can fit differently in different lasts. Also, a bannock only measures in two dimensions, but your feet are three dimensional.
Edit: looking at buying new. Thanks for the feedback. I live in Australia & posting the tracings in takes quite a while & I’m hoping to take advantage of the sale. I also ordered a pair of MP’s through Baker’s about five months ago & had discussions with them via email regarding sizing without tracings. Didn’t get very helpful advice (not through Kyle as most people suggest as he is the best). Despite already telling them I had another pair of MP’s in 7.5D that were too long & narrow they suggested an 8D… Ended up ordering a 7EE but still waiting to receive them & from all the information I’ve cleaned the MP last is a longer narrower style last.
We're gonna need to redo the Brannocking. Follow the instructions below and post pics when you have the time:
Asking for sizing advice? Follow the instructions below.
Have your Brannock size? Great! Prove it with a picture.
Don't have your Brannock size? Buy a Brannock device and post pictures of your feet and someone will help you. Only purchase an official men's or combination men's/women's device. Do NOT let someone else measure you. Do NOT use another brand of foot measuring device. Do NOT use UK or EU devices and try to convert to US. Do not use a shoe measuring device that is not labelled as an Official Brannock Device.
TAKE PICTURES WEARING SOCKS.
Follow the instructions at https://brannock.com/pages/instructions-fitting-tips while paying special attention to Section 3 where there are instructions for measuring the Arch Length (Heel-to-Ball).
Any advice provided prior to this information is speculation. Information based on existing sizes you wear is unreliable until a Brannock size is confirmed.
Are high end loafers from the likes of C&J, EG, G&G etc, resole-able? I’m thinking of the suede ones meant to be worn in the summertime, typically with leather soles.
Yes, apart from those cheaper EG slippers (around 600-700$) that are cemented and some CJ driving shoes, everything should be.
Depends on the shoe. Something like a driving shoe, or the rare cemented shoe with a very very thin sole won't be resoleable, but most of their loafers are just regular old GYW and can be resoled like any other GYW shoe.
Sweet, that’s great news, thank you. If I’m in doubt about a particular pair before I purchase I’ll double check with you legends that frequent these threads sharing knowledge.
Do leather laces fit into the Viberg service boots that have more than 7 holes? They seem way too small.
Its more the eyelet size, viberg eyelets come in large, medium and small. IIRC theyre a bit snug in medium eyelets. I dont actually think I have any medium eyelet pairs here with me though to double check sorry.
All good, thanks for the reply!
The JG stockman is half off on Amazon right now
With this budget and configuration you’re looking at either a Jim Green or Meermin boot.
BLKBRD (true to size) https://www.blkbrdshoemaker.com/search?q=chelsea*&type=product
Thursday (half size down from your normal size) https://thursdayboots.com/collections/mens-boots-chelsea)
Jim Green (I haven't worn these personally but I think they're typically also half size down) https://jimgreenfootwear.com/product-category/all/slip-on/
Out of the three options above, Jim Green has the front pull loops you want but Thursday and BLKBRD might be more your style based on what you said about not liking Blundstone's big toe box. Thursday is probably the best fit of these three for being equally suited to yard work or a night out. All three of these are resoleable but Jim Greens are so cheap it's maybe not worth it.
JG stockmans are currently on sale for $85 on Amazon. Absolute steal.
Ranging from yard to dinner out is a bit tough, but Grant Stone is your best bet. The brown CXL Chelsea is on sale for just under $300. They have some lighter colors but not on sale.
New to this space here and eager to learn.
Ive learned that at the least a GYW should see a stitch on the outsole.
I saw this cool boot online that says it is GYW but if you zoom into the outsole, there’s no stitch pattern. So how is it a GYW or what’s the point of it being a GYW? Or am I wrong on my identification of GYW?
https://www.wolverine.com/US/en/1000-mile-plain-toe-rugged-boot/45302M.html
The Goodyear stitch should not actually be visible. The lock stitch through the top of the welt and the bottom of the outsole is a Rapid stitch, not the same thing.
Take a look here: https://us.crockettandjones.com/blogs/the-article/goodyear-welted-construction to understand the construction. What they show as a "sole stitch" is often through the welt and a midsole/slipsole to which the outsole is sometimes only cemented on like is often the case for wedge soles.
Ive learned that at the least a GYW should see a stitch on the outsole.
others have already established this isn't a given, but the explanation is: the thicker the outsole, the less likely you will see it get rapid-stitched through. it's basically standard for a wedge sole to never be rapid stitched through, and very common for thick lug soles to not be stitched through unless it's from a workboot company, particularly the pacific northwest brands.
the stitch doesn't have to go through to the outsole. you often see the same thing on wedge sole boots even though they are GYW
that said, the stitch goes though on the half sole https://www.wolverine.com/US/en/olive-tanned---1000-mile-plain-toe-classic-boot/48880M.html
Goodyear welt does not require a stitch through the outsole In this case, the welt is stitched to a midsole (looks like it may be rubber), to which the outsole is cemented. "What's the point" is mostly that it's still easier to resole and future resoles can be a different type of sole if the owner desires.
How do I care for Higgins mill weatherproof chili boots?
Check out the intro Leather Care guide at the top of this thread
Here's a good article on the basics: https://burk.blog/posts/shoe-care-without-being-a-nerd/
Get some bick 4 and a horsehair brush, condition 3-4 times a year, and you should be fine.
Hey, I'm looking to get my first pair of quality boots. I was wondering if the White's Hillyards are a good choice for 245$? I like the aesthetic and want to wear it in winter / rainy weather.
https://shop.whitesboots.com/work-boots/hillyard/
Should I go for this or are there better options at this price point (250-300$)?
I won't lie: I don't have the Hillyard and haven't seen them in person. But I'd still bet that they're pretty decent for the price based on White's typical materials and construction. At that price, their main competitor is probably Thorogood, so they're probably at least as good as the Throgoods and very possibly "better". Nothing matters if they don't fit your feet well though...
A full size or a half size? If its just a bit of volume using an insert is the most practical. What size/last berg? Whats your brannock? And what pattern is it? A proper relasting down is possible, but its likely not going to exactly how you want it. If its a full size off it can mess with the pattern too.
Sell and buy a new pair.
It's not always that easy with NOS/rare pairs.
If it’s the wrong size it’s the wrong size.
True, but if money's no object, talented cobblers can do just about anything. OP didn't mention a budget.
I know Unsung is currently working on a pair of shell Viberg boots and remaking them in a size larger than they originally came. I didn't ask how much that job was going to cost, but they said the boots were sentimental to the customer and that he's paying for it.
Valid counterpoint.
Feasible? Yes.
Worth it? Maybe..
I know Unsung House in Nashville does this pretty frequently with both stitchdown and GYW boots. I'm unsure on cost, but it would be at least a few hundred bucks. Give them a shout and see what they charge.
The cost is right on their site you linked: $450 plus the cost of a resole
I saw that, too, but the project may or may not be that involved. It's always best to reach out and get a quote first.
A relast is required for sizing down, in some cases a manufacturer can steam a boot a 1/2 size larger with OEM lasts, but its not often offered and Viberg stopped doing it a few years ago.
With shipping it looks like maybe $400 Canadian through the Viberg repair guy Mat.
Sizing help:
Need some advice on sizing for the White's 55 Arch-Ease last. Thoughts?
If your brannock is 11htt and 10.5 htb, your brannock is 11 whatever width that corresponded too. If you don't want to do bakers fit sheet most people go .5 down and up a width, with tall arches you shouldn't get any of the foot shortening from the arch of the 55 either.
If your brannock is 11htt and 10.5 htb, your brannock is 11 whatever width that corresponded too.
11C = 10.5D, effectively, most of the time.
Yeah you would wear a 10.5D most of the time, but your brannock would still be called 11C. If youre an 11C a 10.5D would be the common recommendation for the 55 too.
What u/rioc45 said is probably best. Gut instinct says half down from your HTT but best to be certain since they will probably take 6 months to build.
Why not do Baker’s remote sizing? They are spot on IME.
If you’re concerned about ordering in time for the sale, email Baker’s, say you’re waiting on sizing, and they should honor the sale price until you get your size figured out.
They honored the sale for me until the week after thanksgiving because I was waiting on custom sizing.
That's a great idea, but this is for a stock pair on sale through a third party.. not MTO through Baker's.
IME Nicks HNW fits the same as White’s 55 but is slightly narrower in the instep.
Without the arch support of course.
Perfect. Thanks!
Looking for a pair of boots/shoes to wear with a suit. I have several Allen Edmonds/Truman boots, but need a pair that I can wear for 12+ hours a day with long stints of standing in place. My feet end up killing me by the end of the day wearing my Allen Edmonds. I’m really trying to resist getting a pair of Cole Han’s sneaker dress shoes and would prefer something GYW. Any suggestions?
RM Williams Comfort Craftsman may be an option. Comes with an foam insole for out of box comfort, and they look sharp with a suit.
Alden modified last is super comfortable if it’s in your price range.
Why are you standing on your feet for that long every day in a suit? That's not really sustainable long term; it's going to be terrible on your knees, legs, joints, etc. I'd look into other options for work..
The most comfortable boots I own are Alden Indys, but that's not really any different from your AE boots. Nothing that's properly dressy will feel as nice as foam filled sneakers, but maybe find some boots with a removable insole and get some custom orthotics for comfort. Alden makes a ton of orthopedic-specific models..
Plenty of folk have to stand all day and plenty of folk wear suits; there's overlap. The solution generally is what you said: the most comfortable possible shoe, within the allowable bounds (whether budget, style, etc.) Orthotics accepting shoes do seem like a good compromise, if somewhat expensive and/or hard to find.
I generally find Alden shoes comfortable for many hours and a half dozen miles but I haven't tried 12 hours in a row.
I generally find Alden shoes comfortable for many hours and a half dozen miles but I haven't tried 12 hours in a row.
I walked 15K steps last Friday in my leather soled Alden leisure handsewns and stood for most of the time I wasn't walking for what it's worth. Conferences are fun.
I wear Indy boots most days and wear them all day. Granted, I’m not on my feet all day.. but routinely work in a warehouse for 6-8+ hours and they’re not bad. Wedge soles and crepe are better for that environment IMO.
I don’t disagree, it’s not an often occasion but occasionally I need to do it for my job, but those few times a year my feet aren’t too happy.
Ahh, I've been there for trade shows and conventions. I normally don't switch out or custom order items for rare occasions like that. Look into orthotics or insoles - SuperFeet are great at retail.
I think an insole would be a proper solution. Thank you I appreciate the insight.
Hi there. I'd appreciate some advice on some slippy Meermin boots. I got a couple of pairs of Meermin boots 18 months ago or so, and both of their soles are very slippy when walking on wet smooth surfaces. For example, my foot will often give out completely if I stepping on a manhole cover. Wet smooth stone has led to actually losing my balance. Is this normal? I've never had this with any other shoes, trainers or boots. What can I do to remedy this?
Here are the links to the pairs: https://eu.meermin.com/collections/made-to-order-expired/products/101387-tobacco-waxy-kudu-e
Do these have the Dainite or Dainite-like studded rubber soles? If so, yes, they don't have ideal traction in wet conditions but it's not that bad where you'll slip and fall (the rubber has anti-slip properties baked in).
The only solution would be to switch to a different sole design during a resole.
The first one with the studded leather looks like their version of Dainite, which is notorious for being very slippery on smooth wet surfaces, such as tile. I would have expected the commando sole to do a little better though.
Not sure on a solution, but I'm sure there's plenty of discussion on Daininte out there that might be relevant
Hey Folks -
Long time boot owner (Red Wings, Whites, Vibergs). I've got a pair of beater Blundstones that are on their last legs and I'm looking to replace with something a bit better quality but that can still take being used for anything. At this point, I'm down to 2 primary choices and looking for thoughts/advice from those with more experience in 2 brands:
Of course I can always get another pair of blundstones instead, but I hate not being able to replace the soles and the leather really wore through on my blundstones.
If you've got another suggestion for a chelsea that can "do it all" that you really like, open to hearing about others.
If you like the red wing #8 last, then don't sleep in their Chelsea since you know your size. They have the "weekender" Chelsea too, but it's probably less robust.
Grant Stone Chelsea in the dark oak roughout is awesome, but the fit can be a bit wonky for some folk. Their brown cxl Chelsea is on sale.
If you're just looking for beaters, what about Jim Green? Definitely function over form, but they're durable, rugged, can take abuse and are easily resolable. They have two models with different lasts/soles, so take your pick.
Interesting, thanks for the insight!
Form does matter a bit, I like to be able to wear them to dinners and whatnot ("clean-up-able" if you will). Jim Green honestly doesn't look much worse than Blundstone and I do like that they have the thermoplastic toe. Think more companies should consider putting something there for structure (and safety!)
for what it's worth there are more boots/shoes with celastic toe structure than probably any other type of toe (steel toe, unstructured, etc.), it's just so standard that it's not even really mentioned.
Meermin isn't going to be any more or less rugged than RMW, really - they're essentially identical in construction. I like my Gardeners a lot, but I paid less than Meermin is asking. The kip leather RMW uses doesn't seem to patina at all while the the waxy commander will show every scuff and scrape as the wax wears off. If you don't want to spend the RMW cost, Meermin will be fine. The Rod last isn't dressy at all.
Grant Stone may have some options for you. The dark oak roughout might be a good option if they'll fit you.
Idk man. My break-in with Meermins was brutal. My RMW craftsman(s) were amazing out of the box.
Ah, I totally forgot about Grant Stone, that's a good idea to throw in the mix, thanks.
Yeah, if I could get the RMWs for closer to meermin price it would be a no brainer
Best leather boots in the 100$ category? (maybe a little bit more)
Jim Greens are on sale on Amazon and their websitw
Thank you
Golden Fox or Rock Rooster
Thank you
Used pairs on eBay from brands in the $200-$500 range (Meermin, Thursday, Allen Edmonds, Grant Stone, Parkhurst, Rancourt, Red Wing,...).
Ok, thank you
Resole time for these Truman boots!
Yes I know the dainite is still rock solid, but that's part of the problem - it's actually getting harder and more uncomfortable. Plus it's somehow out of balance.
Questions:
Nothing but opinion follows...
A) Wedge would be more comfy, B) just replace the top lift to correct the balance, additional removal would likely make it worse C) Dr sole if you want to keep clomping or vibram mini ripple in tan for comfort with a touch of contrast
[Edit - dropped thinner wedge rec]
Thanks. What's your opinion on black wedge vs cream wedge on this pair?
Pure opinion...
I think the black will look good straight away and stay that way.
I think the cream will look oddly clean vs the patina on the uppers at first, and then when it gets stained match the uppers a lot better.
My two cents and probably worth less than that.
Not every boot can just get a wedge slapped on. Boots designed for higher heels will be off balance because many wedges do not accomodate such a difference between the heel and forefoot. Yours seem just fine though, so I wouldn't worry about it. If you really want to delay, you could just get the toplift replaced by a cobbler. A competent cobbler should be able to do it quick and also rebalance the boot.
Damn that’s some wear on those bad boys. I’d go Dr. Sole, but you do whatever you want
Another vote for Dr Sole
Hey y’all.
I have a pair of White’s C350’s on order. Has anyone replaced the top eyelets with speed hooks instead? I’m wondering if there is any real advantage to having eyelets at the very top of the boot as opposed to just having them put speed hooks instead.
Anyone done this?
The eyelet at the top is if you want to do a logger knot. You can swap it to a hook if you want, if you ordered through bakers they may be able to do it for you even.
Just got a pair of Gobi III desert boots by Vivobarefoot and was running to work when I scraped the front on pavement. What can I do to get rid of these two scrapes? For context these are made with "Wild Hyde" leather sourced from Ethiopian cattle and is 100% chrome-free
Try to use your thumb. Try a dab of conditioner like Bick 4 if that doesn’t work.
Gotcha! I used my thumb and it didn't work so I'll hit it with the Bick 4. Hopefully doesn't discolor too much, although I suppose it's already discolored with the scrapes as it is haha. Thank you!
Bick 4 is super gentle and is recommended here for not darkening leather. I have no experience with that brand of shoe or type of leather, but I’d use it with confidence
Hey! Sorry for the late response, imgur still hasn't been cooperating with me. But your suggestion worked 100%, used just a bit of the bick and applied on the scratch and a bit around the perimeter. Over some days the scratch is apparent but more "worn-in," not nearly as apparent and blends in nicely. Thank you!
That's a relief to hear then! I'll definitely use it once I get back home from work and report here with results. Thank you again!
Whoops, comment was written to the overall post, when it should have been a reply. Please ignore 😅
Are we seeing Black Friday prices now, or should I wait for the actual Black Friday for more/better deals?
If places are running sales now, I'd assume they won't get a lot better since they won't want to deal with returns from people buying at a lower price a few days later.
Baby powder
Is it good practice to let your boots air out for 15mins before putting in shoe trees after wear to prevent moisture getting trapped, or is that unnecessary and you can just put trees in right away after wear?
I always do. Probably not necessary for most folks but it doesn’t hurt for sure
It definitely won't hurt em to give em a bit of air before the trees go in
Unless you have really sweaty feet. Like a medical condition it’s likely unnecessary
If your shoes have been used on rainy/snowy/muddy/etc day, then absolutely let them dry for at least an hour (longer if they have been thoroughly drenched) to aerate, breathe, and dry. Then put your cedar (or similar wooden) shoe trees.
This will prevent a thin layer of mildew or mould growing on the shoe tree and getting absorbed by the lining of your shoes.
I have a narrow foot and Allen Edmonds randolph's 10D fit me well, ever so slightly big but I dont slip out. I want to buy meermin's hiro last derbies, which are an E, but a "medium"(regular?) Fit. Will these shoes fit me well?
FWIW, I recently went into Crockett & Jones and tried on a narrow loafer, and they were snug in a comfy way.