1/20

So I'm from New York, been to every multi-Michelin restaurant in the city, and I've been told by more than one person that a 3* there is on par with a 2* in Europe. I always brushed it off, but 12 hours into my first trip to Europe I'm beginning to see what they were talking about.

The whole menu was a perfect blend of French technique, Danish flavor, and seasonal freshness. Standouts included:

  • Oyster and horseradish amuse: Not sure why it came in an egg but it tasted like the best possible version of a tinned oyster in horseradish sauce.

  • "The best of the goose": It was just whipped foie gras. Can't go wrong.

  • Scallop, caviar, champagne: also had little diced potatoes in it. Perfectly acidic sauce, and every element just seemed to further the caviar.

  • Turbot 'Wellington': seeing a tiktok of a version of this done with pheasant was what made me add this restaurant to my itinerary. It didn't disappoint. I can't even begin to imagine the technique that went into this, and it still never felt overworked. Every element went together perfectly.

  • Lobster bisque: Grew up catching and eating lobster off the coast of Montauk so it's easy to unlock a core memory with this. It didn't disappoint. Mushroom gyoza alongside it and the most powerfully-lobster aroma I have ever smelled.

  • Coconut Gelato with Caviar and Green Olive Oil: It worked. Amazingly well.

  • The green mousse in the tart, bottom left of the penultimate photo. Some kind of mushroom dessert, I'm not sure what it was, but damn was it good.

Missteps:

  • Asparagus, veloute, lime-soy: I see what they were going for with the butter of the veloute against the acid of the ponzu. I don't think it worked.

  • Roebuck, asparagus, morels: everything was delicious but there were only a handful of tiny slivers of venison. Most of the plate was the vegetables and it didn't feel like a great way to end things.

  • Strawberry Flambe with Vanilla Ice Cream: Strawberries were underripe.

Still an absolutely incredible meal. 2 stars well-deserved.