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I've always enjoyed the book myself. A lot of the dislike of it comes (I think, at least) from the fact that it's a lot more of people just standing around and talking than the sweeping vistas and actions of the first book, but I liked the more introspective and unsure tone the book takes with Paul and the other characters and the religiously electrified yet already bureaucraticized and corrupt society it depicts. The background of conspiracy and wheels within wheels of plots makes it entertaining as well. I do still like the first book a little better, but I think Messiah was a far worthier sequel than its contemporary (and even post contemporary) reception would indicate.
All of that being said, God Emperor is probably still my favorite.
I find the Dune novels are really unique because lots of people have a different favourite entry, there’s no widely agreed upon “best” book. For me Messiah is my favourite and God Emperor was the one I liked the least. Of the first 4, I haven’t read further than that yet.
I am also in the Messiah favorite, God Emperor least favorite camp. And after God Emperor I stopped, reasoning that things were getting too weird, and probably weren't going to swing back in the direction of more enjoyability.
A few years later I decided to go back to the beginning and force myself to read all six... and I could have kicked myself, because I loved Heretics (ended up being my 3rd favorite after Messiah and Dune), and really enjoyed Chapterhouse too, about on par with Children. Turned out that God Emperor was the only one I didn't really care for - and it still had some very beautiful moments.
I recommend reading 5 and 6 at some point.