Hi all,

Long story short, I'm looking for a mid-sized pack that can serve as a guide pack (need to carry first aid kit, water, layer, etc.) but can also double as a long alpine trad pack.

I'd love to be able to fit ~ first aid kit, water, double rack, shoes, harness, and snacks in the pack for the hike, plus helmet and rope carry on the exterior, but not have it be so big that it's floppy and baggy while climbing.

I've been mostly focused on tube packs for low weight, strippability, versatility, and climbing ability.

The few at the top of my list are:

  • Black Diamond Speed 30 - looked at this in the store today. Meets a lot of my criteria, but it does seem quite large. Even sans brain, it was quite big. It would be quite empty while climbing. I do like that it has a true waist belt. There's also a tall collar under the brain, so you can really stuff it full. Not sure how they're measuing the 30L, but I think you can get way more in there.
  • Ortovox Trad Zero 24 - I think this is my top choice for now. No brain, great flap for covering the opening. I have a few friends with other Ortovox packs and they love them. A smaller size, so it would be a squeeze with all my stuff, but be better while climbing. No true waist belt, but more durable fabric than the BD.
  • Deuter Guide 24 - Seems like a decently tall collar to help with overstuffing, but still small enough when empty to not be super obtrusive while climbing. Least excited about this one, with the shoulder strap pocket, and no true waist belt.

I've looked at other options (Blue Ice Warthog 30, Blue Ice Chiru 25, Osprey Mutant) but none have seemed any better than the Speed 30 or Trad Zero 24. Is there anything else out there I should take a look at?