Fender

Few guitar brands are as iconic and revered as Fender. For collectors, enthusiasts, and musicians alike, one of the key elements in understanding and appreciating a Fender guitar is knowing its authenticity, model, and age. Fortunately, there are a lot of good resources to assist you in that endeavor, albeit with some caveats.

Official Fender Serial Number Lookup: An Authoritative Resource?

Fender's official serial number lookup tool (https://serialnumberlookup.fender.com/lookup/) is the primary reference point for deciphering the origins of a Fender guitar. However, it's essential to approach this resource with a critical eye. While it offers valuable insights, there are notable gaps in the records, and discrepancies may arise. Guitars with known provenance occasionally deviate from the database, listing differences in paint and components. Nonetheless, it remains a fundamental starting point for identifying Fender instruments.

Supplementary Serial Number Model Information

In addition to Fender's official resource, several other reliable sources offer further insights into decoding serial numbers and understanding Fender guitar models.

Websites like Superior Music (https://www.superiormusic.com/page201.htm),

Strat Central (https://www.strat-central.com/external/datingfender.htm),

True Vintage Guitar (https://truevintageguitar.com/blogs/tvg-blog/fender-serial-numbers),

Reverb (https://reverb.com/news/how-to-date-a-fender),

and Andy Baxter Bass (https://www.andybaxterbass.com/blogs/news/fender-serial-number-guide) provide valuable guides and articles on the subject. These resources offer a comprehensive overview, filling in the gaps left by Fender's official database.

Exploring Stratocaster and Telecaster Models and Specifications

For those specifically interested in Fender Stratocasters, resources like Fuzzfaced (https://www.fuzzfaced.net/fender-stratocaster-models.html) offer detailed examinations of various models and their specifications. From vintage classics to modern iterations, understanding the evolution of the Stratocaster can deepen one's appreciation for these iconic guitars.

Likewise, Fender Telecasters have undergone significant evolution over the years. Fuzzfaced's exploration of Telecaster parts (https://www.fuzzfaced.net/telecaster-parts.html) sheds light on the changes in design and construction that have shaped this beloved instrument.

Original Fender Stratocaster Wiring Diagrams

For those interested in the technical aspects of Fender guitars, original wiring diagrams provide invaluable insight into their inner workings and can help to provide those final critical details in authenticating or dating your guitar.

Websites like Guitar Electronics (https://guitarelectronics.com/original-fender-stratocaster-wiring-diagrams/) show the various wiring schemes and components used in Fender Stratocasters over time.

Haven't gotten answers anywhere else. So I have a strat with 5.9K (middle, neck) and 13.3k (bridge) pickups (standard wound). I want to fit it with a noise reduction system and was wondering, based on my specs, what NRS model is best for me?

I’ve been using the app for years but just now, in standard tuning it had me tune a whole step up, that is it’s saying an F# is actually an E. The reference pitch is set to A440 and the instrument to guitar. I could tell by the string tension and the pitch something was off and I confirmed it. I don’t see any other settings that would cause this. Any ideas?

Fender makes MIM, duo-sonics and mustangs that come with stock 24" scale Maple necks with maple fretboards. Question: Where can I buy one?????????????

I recently purchased a brand-new Fender Player (MIM) FSR Strat with a roasted maple neck and Fat 50’s pickups. I’m actually quite surprised in the finish quality and neck, and the guitar sounds fantastic and the neck plays great. I really like it, except…

 The frets are horrible. Many (most?) of the frets are completely flat on the treble side. While some are relatively smooth, many are very rough. The string grinds across them and stops bends. The levelling job seems to just be on the treble side, and spreads to about halfway across most of the frets. The bass side is mostly rounded. There are also some nicks in the frets contributing to the roughness. I also think there is a visible height difference in the fret height, with the “levelled” flattened side visibly down compared to the normal bass side. I think this is a poor factory levelling job without bothering to re-crown and polish rather than from previous playing and wear – but I suppose that is possible if I was sold a used guitar as new (the body looks in really good condition for that though)?

 The low e string has the worst nut buzz I’ve heard. I’ve heard a lot of nut buzz, but this one is loud and resonated through the amp.

 There is also a piece of wood or cardboard pushed under the jack cover I’m assuming to prevent vibration because its not level. I’ve actually seen this on an American Fender too, but it doesn’t seem right.

 I’m frustrated, because I really like the guitar and it’s a limited release. I got it for a good price. However, I don’t really think I should have to get a crown and level and a new nut on a brand-new guitar – spending another couple hundred - and that’s assuming it doesn’t need to be refretted. Yes, the strings need replacing, which I haven’t done yet because its probably going back.

 What does everyone think? Would you keep this and have it serviced? Or is it really bad for a new guitar and should go back? Is this typical of MIM quality control?

 I’ve actually had a couple recent American Pro II Strats, and have been extremely disappointed by the quality. I bought one that I thought was probably b-stock even though it was sold as new, so I decided to order one direct from Fender. That was the worst guitar I have seen. The frets were dirty, there was glue everywhere on the fretboard and the frets, the rosewood was chipped and cracked, the pickup casing was chipped and dirty, the knobs were chipped and misaligned, there were visible scratches from buffing with a dirty cloth or something all over the body, and the electronics were not wired properly. The volume and tone didn’t do anything until you were at 8 on the dial and the humbucker split didn’t work. The pickups also sounded off and out of phase, even after adjustment. It was an awful guitar, and I was shocked Fender themselves would send this out as new. It’s embarrassing, this being an $1800 guitar, and I decided it wouldn’t be worth it to spend that on a Fender if this is the QC.

 Compared to that American Strat, I’m quite surprised that this Mexican Player isn’t worse than it is. In many respects, it’s better than the American built one that costs over $1000 more. It certainly sounds and plays better, even with the flat rough frets.

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I’m about to buy one of the Mexican Player Telecasters so firstly - what are peoples thoughts?

And secondly - if I get it I’ll be fitting a Bigsby to it, is there any difference between the standard B5 and the F branded B5 or is it purely aesthetic? There’s a £50 difference in the two that I’ve found and don’t know if it’s worth blowing that extra cash on something just to have an F on it?

Thank you!!

I own a Fender Mustang LT40S amplifier. Whenever I tried connecting the amp to my computer via the app and an A to micro cable, it would not detect my amp. The amp was turned on, and, again, using the proper USB cable. It suggested I installed a firmware update on my amp. So, following its instructions, I turned on my amp while holding down the encoder knob on my amp for 3 seconds, but it didn't work. I tried going to their website, but it just says, " Launch Fender Tone® with your LT amplifier connected via USB. Fender Tone® will guide you through the process of installing any firmware updates." This does not help, as I have the app launched and am trying to connect it with a USB, and there's nothing other than the encoder knob thing that tells me how to install the firmware update.

I would really appreciate it if I could get some tips on this, as I have no idea what to do next.

So a few weeks ago I got a great deal on a lake placid blue avii (£1275). And it sounds gorgeous. Plus it doesn’t really seem to suffer any of the QC issues of other early run models.

But a traditional 60s MIJ has just shown up for £575. It’s the racing stripe version like this https://mickleburgh.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/09/11616.jpg

Is the quality of the avii that much better to justify keeping it over the MIJ? I know it’s all subjective but I could probably resell the avii and almost get profit to cover the MIJ.

Thoughts?

I’ve been looking at the different lines of japanese fenders but not sure if the heritage is worth the premium over the traditional. I know that the traditional has basswood, but is that really a disadvantage? In terms of build quality and parts quality, is there a big difference between the two, or is it just nitro vs poly and alder vs basswood setting them apart? Btw how frequently do they change the color options, because I’d love to get a tele or jazzmaster in sonic blue and I’m not currently seeing that option.