Grand Teton - June 14 through June 16 - Guide recommendations?

Hi there! I'm heading to Gran Teton National Park in mid-June and am interested in summiting the Grand Teton. I have researched the trek and understand that a short 5.4 chimney needs to be cleared at the end of the climb, the crux. I have most of the equipment and stamina to do the trek in one day, but when I call guiding agencies, they keep pushing me for $2000-$3500 multi-day packages that include training, etc.

My questions:

What are the conditions like in mid-June? What equipment would I need? Is a one-day climb possible?

Do you happen to know any guides I could reach out to?

About me:

I have climbed 20+ 14ners across CO, CA, and WA, including Williamson, Tyndall, Wetterhorn, Sneffels, and Rainier (via Kautz). The rainier summit was a guided seminar.

in Mountaineeringby TNestlehner

56%

14d

HikeandKayak

14d

There are two guiding companies that do the grand Teton. Both are probably sold out for the year already. I don’t know if the rules change if you want to do it in one day, but it’s a huge day.

TNestlehner

14d

Thank you!

tnobleman

14d

I usually describe the Grand Teton via Owen Spaulding in summer conditions as a “climb for hikers and a hike for climbers”. It is soloed frequently, but usually by those who have the experience to know they are absolutely solid climbing and down climbing at least alpine 5.6.

More typically, in summer people use at least a 60m rope (the lower anchor on the last rappel works for a 60m), and a small rack of rock protection. For someone unsure of how much lead protection they will place, I’d suggest a single rack from .3-2 and a set of nuts, along with 6 or so alpine draws and a couple longer slings for anchors. This website has great info on the route: https://wyomingwhiskey.blogspot.com/?m=1

In mid June, the OS can often still be icy and may require crampons and a light axe and some additional care and equipment (perhaps light mountain boots). The climbing ranger blog does a good job of describing current conditions. For example, this entry from June 22 of last year describes significant winter conditions on the route, requiring crampons and tool: http://tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/2023/06/grand-teton-owen-spaulding-conditions.html?m=1 In these conditions you would want solid alpine climbing skills, including experience leading mixed rock/ice/verglass.

The Grand can be done in a day, but it is a pretty mega day, and requires soloing or very fast and efficient alpine climbing rope skills.

Finally, routefinding on the Grand is notoriously challenging, and can suck up some time and make the onsite more difficult.

I hope this helps a bit - I’m not a local but I do have a special place in my heart for the Grand Teton, and have climbed it 4 times via different routes including a ski descent.

I certainly don’t have a complete picture of your background, but compared to the routes you mentioned in your tick list, the Grand is a significant step up in technical difficulty (a climb for hikers). My advice would be to A) develop more rock climbing skills, particularly in traditional climbing, B) go later in the season and C) go with a partner, preferably someone with significant alpine climbing experience who can mentor.

Hope that helps, feel free to reach out for more info.

xj98jeep

14d

I'm a local climber and couldn't have said it better myself, I have nothing to add.

TNestlehner

14d

Thank you so much! I might take this visit to explore the Backcountry instead of heading towards the “shiny object.” I might attempt middle Teton. Any thoughts on that?

tnobleman

14d

Middle Teton via the Southwest Couloir could be an excellent objective. It’s a big day, but no technical sections per se. Definitely start early - like around 2am or earlier, depending on your fitness.

In early June it could be a snow climb, although they say it melts out early. You can always call the ranger station and they will be happy to give you info. I’d certainly bring a helmet regardless, since the couloir can have some rockfall hazard, although if you are lucky enough to have consistent snow, that could be mitigated by the snow and an early start. If there is significant snow, certainly bring boots, crampons and ax.

I’ll confess I’m not as familiar with Middle Teton - I’ve only it once during the Grand Traverse and descended the SW couloir, which was quite chill except for the loose rock.

But in early June if you are comfortable climbing snow and have boots, crampons, ax and helmet, it would be a good intro objective to the Teton range.

TNestlehner

13d

Fantastic! I appreciate the detailed responses and will continue to ramp up my trainingh!

Firefighter_RN

14d

It's a massive day, easily 12hrs car to car moving fast. Typically there's still snow and ice this time of year. The guides groups usually book up fast. They're probably pushing you toward the packages where people have the most success and it's probably expensive because it would be private if they are already booked up. Most people plan the grand out way in advance.

suntoshe

14d

Yup, and the huge day is made longer spending hours waiting at the choke points on Wall Street and the rap stations. My wife and I did it in a day and lost at least 2.5 hours waiting lol

NumberSpace

14d

Unfortunately, the prices you're seeing are the price due to both the popularity and, as another user pointed out, the lack of competition with only two guide services having the necessary permits. Generally there can still be snow and ice in June, I would check with the Rangers for conditions as you get closer. If you're thinking OS then the gear is probably a 70m rope for rappels, a couple pieces of gear to build anchors and enough to protect the 3ish sections with significant exposure. However, it is a 5.4 that was first climbed in cowboy boots. The prices you're seeing online include a climbing clinic normally where the guides teach folks with no experience just enough skills to safely follow the guide after only a day. It is not uncommon for folks to free solo the route which in the way down involves either a down climb or bumming a rappel. Loads of YouTube videos you can watch to see the conditions and exposure. Personally I'll be doing it on gear this summer but to each their own. Happy climbing!

TNestlehner

14d

Thank you! I appreciate your response!

Ultra-CH

14d

Are you doing the Owen Spaulding route? If so a one day solo is possible. You need enough gear for a retrievable repel. Mid June is a little early in the summer season. Last year I was climbing in mid July and still using an axe and kicking steps on steep snow up until the upper gulley

lilfelts

14d

Exum, great guides through them. Chance of rain always but generally good conditions. Only a must avoid during thunderstorms

NoActivity578

14d

Go on your own. Guides are for people who need guides. Don't fall and die

im_wildcard_bitches

14d

So you have a permit?? I mean I would be down to do this with you if ya have one. Ive put many miles in Grand Teton. Have done class 4 climbing with trail runners lol

newintown11

14d

Since when do you need a permit to car to car the grand in a day?

im_wildcard_bitches

14d

Hmm I should’ve checked the site, was under the impression a permit is needed due to possible congestion during peak season