Advice from experienced mechanics from several fields.

Two cars. 2012 mustang and a 1984 F-150. They’re both stick, and I don’t have anybody who can move them around. What can I do to make the best effort for having them run when I get back? I’m thinking throwing some fuel stabilizer in whatever is left in the tank but I’m more concerned about the batteries. The truck has problems and somethings drawing power all the time, so I’ll probably just pull that battery while I’m gone. The mustang will be kept outside and I have no idea what to do with that battery.

Driving yesterday and my serpentine belt exploded, turns out it was a bad water pump. My battery light went on and power steering went out, a/c got hot. I tried to drive it back home and I almost made it but then the red oil pressure light went on and the car suddenly stalled. I tried to start it up but no luck. Got it towed home. I thought it was a low battery so I jumped it so I can crank the car on before wasting my time changing the water pump and serpentine belt. It would crank and sounded like it wants to turn on but nothing just weird noises. I checked the oil level and it was good, maybe even higher than normal even though I personally put in the right amount and nothing more a few weeks ago. I opened the oil cap and as you can see it looked like sliced metal inside. So I'm not a car expert at all but me thinks the engine is destroyed, what do you all experts think? its an 04 corolla with 214000 miles. Oil pressure light is still on also

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Hi!! I’m a 22 year old girl with her first “real” car. I’ve had a beater in the past but last year I got myself a 2017 Nissan Altima. It was fine for awhile, but about three months after purchasing my car my battery was bad and I needed to get a new one. Cool, no worries. Fast forward to now- the past few months my car battery will die for what I view as “no reason” because i’m not leaving ANYTHING on for the battery to die. But it won’t start without a jump sometimes. I’ve taken it to advanced auto more than once and they say my battery, my alternator, and my starter are testing perfectly fine. I jumped it the night before I took it to a carmax approved shop, and of course THATS when it wants to start actually turning on and off without a jump. So when I get there and explain my problem, they’re saying they don’t know what’s causing it. They suggested I clean the “terminals”?? I think that’s what it was- so while I know it could’ve been cleaned with a can of coke- I pay for it to be cleaned there professionally. Cars was fine for a week or two after that, then last week I needed another jump. Then it was fine again. Fast forward to now. I didn’t drive my car at all Friday after work, or at all on Saturday, now it’s Sunday and my car won’t start. I also typically drive it every single day, so I don’t think that leaving it for periods of time without driving is the issue. I can’t return my car, and the shops aren’t helping. I’m not sure what to do. Thanks in advance guys :((

Recently tested my original alternator at Autozone and it said it failed. I bought a new one and installed it. Still getting battery charging system warning.

Autozone guy told me the amps on the OG are 170. My new one is 150 amps. Is that detail enough to cause the alternator not to charge the battery? Or is the amps not enough to cause issues. I know dumb question. I’m guessing they sold me an alternator for the same truck but for a V6. I have a V8.

By the way, I bought the new alternator somewhere else online.

Edit: would rebuilding my original at a shop be a good way to go?

I have some aftermaket lights installed on my 2008 Lexus Is250. I recently noticed that one of them is always on high beam while the other is on low beam. Could anyone know what it could be?

I have a 2006 Buick Lucerne cx with the 3600 series engine for 3600 a couple of days ago. I have some questions. One when I drive the passenger side dash vibrates, also at idle it vibrates, I have service air bag, service brake system, service traction control, service break assist and truck open light (trunk is closed.) it was in a accident that only involved the driver side headlight and the hood. I just need help cause my dad and I are not on speaking terms.

I'm having a cylinder 2 and 3 misfire on my 2008 honda accord 2.4L.

What I have done already:

• Changes spark plugs and coil packs
• Compression test: both 150 Psi
• Checked for smoke out tail pipe, there is none
• Changed crankshaft sensor

I'm bummed on what it could be. Those two cylinders dont seem to fire at all. The car is very weak to drive any.

Any pointers?

Anytime I change or rotate my tires the TPMS lights stays on my Honda Civic 2011 Coupe LX. 8th digit of my VIN is 6.

In the past, I would be told to drive it for awhile, and if it didn't go away, bring it back to the shop and they reset it. My dad had a Honda in the past that had the same issue and this is always what he did.

I've moved since then and other mechanics don't know what I'm talking about when I ask them to reset it, they just say I need to replace them because they're failing. I've replaced some of them in the past and the problem persists. When I Google how to reset TPMS on my car I don't see an answer. I don't want to keep buying new sensors if it's not necessary.

Also I'm about to get new tires, and they are asking if I want a TPMS rebuild. I'm honestly confused between replacing, rebuild, and resetting and when each is necessary. Any advice is appreciated.

My wife's 2014 Jeep GC seems to have a leaking oil cooler. I see that is pretty common on these 3.6's. It has 110k miles on it.

I do most of my own work when I can, as long as there is a good tutorial out there to follow. This job will be one of the biggest I've done, but I've found some good step-by-step videos.

I've read many different opinions on what to replace with. I plan on getting the aluminum Dorman oil cooler 926-959. Should I stick with the seals and gaskets that come with the kit or go with something else (I've read some prefer the Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket set). What about the o-rings? I've read to stick with Mopar rings but wasn't sure.

I was wondering what else I should replace while I'm in there?

Go ahead and replace spark plugs? What else?

Thanks!

I have a 2009 Chevy Silverado and I can not turn off my air recirculation or the fresh air mode it's either one or the other no matter what while a colleague at work has the same year as mine but a lesser model and can turn his off it is exactly the same climate control model as mine tho? What could it be?

2009 Lexus Lx 5.7, 230k. I think it’s the manifold because I’m also getting a strong exhaust/gas smell at idle with AC on. But my mechanic says it’s the injectors, which could explain the gas smell I suppose, though it’s both a gas and exhaust smell not just 1 or the other. Vehicle runs fine, no hesitation, no idle issues. Before I throw $1000 at injectors, what do you think?

https://youtu.be/WNkL9QKAwpg?si=GtqcSaSLlBA9QkHB