Anything related to GMT400 Chevy/GMC Trucks

Recently got a 94 but the ac doesnt work blows hot air instead where should I start?

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$23 real AVS window vents. They're normally $70 - $80 per set.

I bought a set last week. Look like they have 1 left. It fits 88-98 Suburban, 4 door Tahoe, Escalade, crew cab pickup.

Or, for the price, it's still a great a deal if you only use the ones for the front windows on regular cab or extended cab pickup

https://www.rockauto.com/closeouts/?carcode=1302826

I have a real head scratcher for everyone. 1997 2500 suburban 7.4 with a new engine with about 3k on it now. I’ve been trying to find a solution for this very strange problem. It’s lacking power because for some reason, when it’s in a forward or reverse gear when the accelerator is pushed the spark advance retards. With driving under heavy throttle it dips down to 6 degrees advance. When I let off it comes back to its current max idle of 23 advanced. When it’s in park or neutral when speeding up the engine it will get to around 27, no more. Any time it’s in gear and the throttle is moved the advance dips, steeply. The cam retard is set to 0 degrees like it should be. There are no CEL’s. LTFT is in the negative 6-10 range while under acceleration or cruising with light throttle. It knows something isn’t right but it’s not pointing to anything. I removed the knock sensors, started it, no change. Cleaned up the threads and grounded them with clips to verified ground, no change. Completely disconnected, no change. Distributor has under 7k on it with the previous engine. TPS, MAP, MAF, IAT, coolant temperature readings are all normal. The engine is completely stock besides a deck job and .20 over pistons. All internal rotating parts are new and factory specs. Thank you for reading! Im sure someone will have a great idea for this!

Bought a '90 a couple months ago with the 5.7 350. Replaced the intake manifold and gaskets recently, got everything put back together and there are no leaks as far as I can tell. Now when I drive it, every time I let off the gas, the engine sputters and almost dies for just a second or 2, but never actually dies. Also when this happens the oil pressure drops way down. Any ideas?

I also have replaced the following since I bought the truck:

Water pump

Radiator

Ignition coil

Spark plugs/wires

Distributor cap/rotor

Thermostat

I need to get a flywheel, pressure plate, pilot bearing, and clutch where can i get a kit that comes with all of this that will work with the 5.7 vortec? I’ve seen some online but they say they only fit the 4.3 but from my understanding the 4.3 is identical besides the lack of 2 front cylinders?

This is probably a stupid idea, but looking for confirmation. Moving from Michigan to California, would like to tow a camper around 4k lbs. Truck is a 1500 with a 305, 130k miles, 2wd 10 bolt rear (I know). Looking for opinions on upgrading this one, it is very clean, or just getting a bigger truck. Thanks.

I don't see how it could matter, but apparently it does?

For those of you who don't use your trucks much and uae a battery tender, what brand/model do you use? I have been using one for a few years and recently had a battery at 0 volts. Replaced it and now the new battery with 1 start and 0 miles is back at 0 volts. I presume that new battery and the tender are both dead. The tender is only 3 years old..

It's a garage kept 98 with a 350.

I’ve seen vids on YouTube using plastic welders hot staples to repair 07-13 GM dashes. I’ve never seen a video of this method used on a GMT400 though. Does anyone know if this will work on GMT400 dashes? Or is there some difference is the plastic where it won’t work?

So I have a 1997 k1500 and the transmission is not wanting to separate from the engine can you separate the bell housing from the transmission or does that just completely open up the transmission if not any tips on how to get the transmission of the engine