Wearable prosthetic arc reactor for Iron Man/Tony Stark cosplay
Well I'm not Tony Stark
Yes I am
...Iron Man.
You're not u/boogie_boots
You're not my supervisor!
OUTLAW COUNTRY
Now i am
Oh thank god. I thought we lost you in the ball pit
No I'm still in the ball pit
Be careful. I heard someone dropped a dookie in it
Oh yeah that was me
Then who am I?
WHERE'S RACHEL?
You're more of a Tony Stank.
Jeff Bridges grew his beard in a cave with scraps.
<flying tie> while vigorously pointing
It kind of looks like he did actually.
Maybe his mancave?
His moms basement
Can we get a photo of you wearing it?
Looks freaking awesome. Great job
It should be near where your heart is, which is at the bottom of the sternum (had to look up for the word). Otherwise looking dank.
Seems like it's way to high up on your chest compared to Tony's
huh, it's usually the opposite. Cameras usually don't do light up objects justice. It looks awesome though. Great job!
Usually just the photographer, not the camera
Er no... White balance would affect the temperature of the picture. Auto exposure is what would cause this issue. most point and shoot, and cell phones, simply try to read the overall brightness and get confused by single bright points like this. They'll either expose to the clothing and cause the led to be super bright, or expose to the light and cause everything else to be too dark.
They lack the manual controls to properly adjust for that kind of thing. If white balance were an issue you'd see the picture looking overly yellow or overly bluish. This could happen if someone used leds that were non-white as well. The camera would have trouble balancing normal light with an overly warm led color.
If you're worried it won't shine through your shirt, don't worry about making it brighter. Just wear a thinner shirt!
It would look odd on his Daffy Duck furry costume.
It's not Daffy, it's Duck Dodgers in the 24th and a half century.
Thank you. So few people seem to get that and I'm like... it's 2016 people. #bearmyburden
Ho! Ha ha! Guard! Turn! Parry! Dodge! Spin! Ha! Thrust!
I claim this planet in the name of Mars. Isn't it lovely, hmm...
I've done something similar but it seems mine was a lot easier to build. It worked really well for dress up parties and people were really impressed by it. I just followed the instructions on Adafruit. But mine keeps flickering and I have no idea why. So I just tell people I just fought some bad guys and it's running out of power.
I really like this. A friend actually recommended using a pre-made LED ring after I'd already started, but I already had the parts and wanted to finish what I'd started. Having done it I'd probably recommend your way.
Yeah yours look a bit nicer. But I was a complete novice when I made that so it's not bad for a first time project.
Check your solder connections first as well as power. Just make sure the solder connections are solid. Then make sure it isn't a power issue somewhere maybe causing a short.
WS2812 LEDs that are used there are difficult to work with at times. They rely heavily on timing. You can fiddle with the code a bit to see if that is the issue. The timing between the falling edge and the rising edge determine if the data sent is a digital 1 or 0. That is usually achieved by bit banging the I/O port.
I just did the one on Adafruit too!
https://imgur.com/uJ1OFC3 https://imgur.com/l2wNJN1
I made two minor modifications however: I added a center LED for more uniform brightness and I drove the LEDs with a ProTrinket rather than a Flora. I also added a button to cycle through colors and animation, but didn't have the time to program all that in. Oh, and I put in a few rare earth magnets to keep them pinned to my undershirt.
I made mine as a last minute cosplay for Emerald City Comic Con, a couple of weeks ago. It was definitely overshadowed by way more awesome cosplayers, but it still got its fair share of "hey, neat!" and "where can I buy one?" remarks.
Is your flicker part of the animation or does it just die completely?
About how much would you say you spent on making this? Also time?
Because I am a complete novice. It took me on and off about a week?
Just keep in mind I have never done any electronics in my life. Also had to get a friend to teach me soldering. But I still managed so I would say it is pretty straight forward if you just follow the instructions.
In terms of cost. I think it was around $60-$80. I am not 100% sure. Also keep in mind I live in Australia so parts are naturally more expensive for me.
That's nowhere near what I was expecting you to say. Not bad at all.
I work in a place that has access to a lot of the fabrication equipment and the electronics necessary to make something like this (which is partly why I mentioned the mods I made), so overall cost gets a little difficult to really pin down. If I had to guess though, I'd say at least $50 (your microcontroller and the neopixel ring alone will run you 30 of those dollars).
As for time, this wasn't my first electronics project either. I'm still a novice, but overall, I finished everything in about two work days. If you're of intermediate electronics skill, and if you have access to a laser cutter/engraver, it'd probably be even less.
Honestly, what took me the most time was coiling those copper wires all around the reactor.
The flickering is not part of the code but it doesn't die either. It is just constantly flickering for some reason. It's my first electronics DIY and first time soldering so I probably messed up somewhere.
I recommend put a layer or two of baking paper between the LEDs and the acrylic. It helps diffuse the light a little makes it look a little better.
Ooh, good tip on the light diffusion with baking/wax paper. I'll try that with even my other neopixel projects.
On the subject of flickering, are any metal bits touching your solder connections? It might be shorting every so often if that were the case. It happened to me for a bit until I fixed the problem into place with a hot glue gun.
The reason you are getting uneven lighting is because you have all of your LED's in parallel. So if there is a difference in the vF of some LED's, those are the ones that'll pull all of the current, which will mean some light up and others don't.
If you wire them in series you'll have the same current flowing through all of them, you will need a higher voltage however. But you can achieve that with batteries in series (external battery pack).
Also super glue on LED's will kill them.
Great work besides. If you want really high brightness, try Phillips 3535's or MLE packages. You can put half an amp through those easy.
But if you put them all in series, then won't the amount of current in each LED diminish, because the resistance keeps on piling up, no? By putting it in parallel, we overcome this dificulty, no?
The voltage drops, the current stays the same.
When you are putting things in parallel, you divide the current but the voltage stays the same.
So with 10 LED's in series for example you need 24v and 100mA for the string.
With 10 LED's in parallel you need 3.2v and 1A for the string (assuming the LED's all have exactly the same vF which they never do). In either case each LED will want 100mA
Ahh, alright.
Simple: The current does not change in a series circuit but voltage does.
Slightly more complicated: The current of a system entering equals the current of that same system exiting. If you isolate one LED in a series configuration and set that as your system, the current that enters the LED equals the current exiting the LED. As a result, the same current passes into the next LED because there is no other place to go. A parallel circuit behaves similarly except the voltage is the same.
This is a super ideal representation of the principles but sufficient for doing stuff like this.
But, in parallel systems, as the V remains same, isn't it more apt?
Not entirely, because as I mentioned earlier the forward voltage of each LED is never the same. This means you end up with some LED's biasing the circuit, taking the path of least resistance and causing only some to light up to full brightness.
But what if you need 12 LED's and you can't give them 30 or more volts?
Then you need to start organising them into strings. Of series and parallel.
Say you can only provide 9v, and you know that each LED you have has a forward voltage of 2.9v. You put them into groups of 3 in series, giving you 8.7v for that string. You now have 4 groups of 3 which you put in parallel.
This gives you some compromise because you are reducing the chance of a bias by having your LED's in series, but you are able to power this with a lower voltage by having parallel groups of 3 LED's. This will however mean you need more current.
Ohh alright. Makes sense. Thanks!
Correct. Never diodes directly in parallel. Ever.
This is entirely the reason we use a LED with a series resistor.
Even a manufacturing difference of 1% in the LED specs can cause a massive difference in the current each diode will pass.
Why was it so common in the 60's-70's before they came up with higher current diodes? Did they just not know?
Okay, although so far that's turned out to be irrelevant. The lighting seems to work fine as long as the connections are solid. Maybe I'll still see that when the battery drains, though. Which brings me to a question which you seem like the guy to ask.
I considered integrating a joule thief between the battery and the LEDs because I thought it'd be cool that it could use a much higher fraction of the battery's charge, and also it has a cool torus in it which I thought would be awesome thematically.
I got the parts, but I didn't do it because I didn't really know what I was doing and it was enough work already. But assuming I wanted to do so on a new one, how would you wire that?
It's usually fine for small things.
Can't say I've ever used one to be fair. Would look really cool though, maybe there's an instructables?
I found a couple that I used to pick out the pieces. I suppose I should just put it together on a breadboard and see.
Irrelevant unti you get runaway with one diode then it dies, then you runaway with next and it'll die.
You have someone explaining why you can not put diodes in parallel, just listen to them.
Can you explain further? I don't know what runaway is.
So you know how LEDs (and all diodes) have a forward voltage? And you know how they're never exactly identical in the first place? Well, those values change as they heat up, and unfortunately it's a bit of a vicious cycle. As an LED gets hotter, it will use more current at a given voltage supply, which will cause it to get hotter, which will make it dissipate more power, etc. etc. So the LED with the lowest forward voltage will eventually go through this cycle and burn out, and then the next one will, and so on at an increasing speed until all your LEDs are dead.
To solve this problem, most people connect LEDs in parallel and give them each their own resistor to limit the current. That way, each LED's current is governed by the resistor it's attached to, instead of just its own (variable) forward voltage. You can also use constant current drivers, which vary the voltage applied to each LED so that they consume a constant amount of current (but those are usually too much work for little projects).
Anyway, your thing looks really cool!
Sure.
Simplifying a lot... So you have two identical devices, current flows through them equally, no problem with parallel diodes? In the real world, one of the two will conduct better than another one.
This one that conducts better will get an unfair amount of the current available.
This means you have in your case, two LEDs that should be equal brightness and load, but are not.
The most simple fix is to have a series resistor for each diode. This means sure there isn't just the LED load, but a real resistive load as well. This is heat now at the resistor and led however. No issue for mA loads.
So what ends up happening is, you have 100mA for the two diodes, you think it's 50/50, but it's actually more like 70/30, except the diode has a limit of 60mA and you thought you were under that.
Long term, one diode will fail, which then will load up another and it'll fail, etc.
In terms of transistor (or diode) runaway, your LED as its being over-run from its specs, will continue to quickly run hitter and hotter as it itself heats up. This can be the entire unit or just spots on the die of a transistor.
There are really great non-generalized explainations around. I recommend searching.
There is also an excellent stack exchange post of why you need series resistors for diodes and parallel can't happen.
I don't think it would "load up the other" - just to be precise since we're talking about a voltage source. The idea that runaway will accelerate isn't accurate since the current supplied by the battery will just drop compensate within its supply limits as each resistor goes out.
Remind me, do diodes short open or closed?
You are forgetting that the "primary" diode will be the path of least resistance, and as it heats it will continue to be a lower and lower path.
Remind me, do diodes short open or closed?
Either, depending on the mode of failure. Short most commonly. Also irrelevant.
"path of least resistance"
This figure of speech is applicable to lightning, not so much lumped circuit models. The current flowing through the other LEDs is only dependent on the voltage across their terminals and the internal resistance. It doesn't care about what is going on in other paths, whether those paths are of lesser resistance or otherwise. In the event that the battery is supplying the maximum current that it can because of a short (which is already a dangerous problem since it'll probably boil unless the fault opens), other strings are less likely to blow rather than more likely since the voltage will drop.
Either, depending on the mode of failure. Short most commonly. Also irrelevant.
Not even slightly. Again, this is all reason to never "DIRECTLY" parallel diodes. But keep arguing with me on basic electronics that literally everyone agree on! Parallel your diodes if you want! Go right ahead :D
Path of least - has nothing to do with lighting. Man, you um... Don't know 1/100th of what you don't know.
Good luck! I seriously hope you don't actually work with electronics.
Not even slightly? You have punch through (closed) failures and metallization burnout (open) failures.
Can you entertain the possibility that maybe you don't know everything about this? Does learning about an entire knew failure mode that you'd never heard of before help you foster this humility? No need to go insulting me, I actually do work with electronics as a researcher but I agree that I don't know 100% of what I don't know. Otherwise I wouldn't be researching if I knew everything!
I agree that you should never directly parallel diodes. But there are parallel configurations with series resistors that are more than common, and these are still called parallel configurations.
Except that that isn't true at all. You absolutely can put diodes in parallel, as long as you have a series resistor for each diode and a voltage source capable of supplying sufficient current.
It's much better to advise OP to add an SMD resistor to each string and upgrade his supply rather than redo the entire project.
Adding a series resistor is not longer having the diodes in a parallel for the terms of this discussion.
You then have a current controlled diode (diode + resistor assembly).
ONE way for OP to fix this would be adding a constant current scheme like a resistor. A better way would be temperature controlled (or at least planned for) actual LED driver that could hold a constant current regardless of diode manufacturing differences, body temperature / under cloths vs on the desk function, etc
If you consider 1 LED strings with series resistors to be a series or series-parallel configuration then I mean, okay, but I couldn't have guessed that you were using the words weird.
I'm not sure what you mean by a resistor offering a "constant current scheme".
Using a driver for an application this small is ridiculous.
Ha... Um... I see from your other posts that I'm just wasting my time with you.... but a constant current scheme for an LED really should be an EXTREMELY easy concept to understand.
Tell you what... I'll just lay this out here for you...
- Diodes are semi-conductors, so you don't use the same rules you would for other discrete parts
- LEDs do not have a "resistance"
- You seem to be treating LEDs like they are resistors, but are forgetting that a small delta in voltage is a big delta in current
- You might do well to read about the diode's forward voltage
In the most simple terms, when you add a resistor to an LED, it's no longer in parallel with the other LEDs, you have a separatable assembly, but it's a block that is factored together. That resistor behind the LED is not changing the voltage (significantly) of this VOLTAGE CONTROLLED DEVICE.
Like I said in my other post just now, good luck!
This guy claimed to have an MSEE earlier.
I can't imagine who would sponsor somebody this dense.
Thank you... Because sometimes I read things so stupid that it makes me think like "wait, am I stupid here!?"
I was followed here by a crazy person on a vendetta. Since I don't really have much space left to convince you, your mind seems made up, I can only say that LEDs do have internal resistance (check it with your multimeter if you want), and configurations with several strings of single LED and series resistor are still called parallel strings in the market / industry.
The mistake you're making is believing that the lumped circuit model captures all the physical information about the device. If you want to understand the solid state physics of them better you have to read more into it. Here's an explanation from the Harvard SEAS site and a summary diagram of the more complete (still only a model) model. An even more complete diagram would capture parasitic capacitances and inductances.
Diodes have a negative temperature coefficient; their forward voltage drop decreases as they get hotter, increasing the amount of current they carry and causing them to get even hotter. You'll end up with a bunch of melted diodes if you put them in parallel.
Just realised you're the upset guy from the other thread.
Since you're very smart with your BSEE you probably don't need me to tell you that what you said is a non sequitur since I recommended including a series SMD resistor in each string.
The series resistor won't help.
Read more on this. Parallel and series-parallel configurations are the most common configurations for LEDs in the industry. Hell there's an entire market for parallel drivers that you would have been made aware of if you just googled it.
Let me rephrase, a resistor large enough to prevent the diode from destructing would defeat the purpose of paralleling the diodes in the first place; increasing their current capacity.
Unless of course you have an enormous voltage drop you want to work with, but now you're just wasting power. What you should do is get one diode that does what you want. End. Of. Story.
Actually that isn't the purpose at all. The purpose is not having to lug around 15 LiPo batteries to make something light up. Think about it, do you think that those LED body suits like the type you see worn at electronic concerts have a 300 volt battery hidden somewhere inside? Or a 30 pole switch? No, they use series-parallel drivers.
We could have him put some xp-g2s on. They'll take a few amps... You know, if you want your arc reactor as bright as a sun
I'm doubtful that a handful of SMD LEDs are pulling max current from his battery and not blowing up immediately. Did OP explain what the supply is?
Sorry, it's a 3V coin cell battery. The kind used to power stickies.
Oh fair enough, the current output of those cells is actually quite low.
LEDs on acrylic will kill them too.
Then how would you fix them permanently?
You have to control the static, acrylic can kill electronics that way. With the need to keep things transparent a layer of copper for grounding isn't workable... I'm not sure actually.
You can actually get acrylic with an antistatic coating applied. It's expensive though.
I'll remember that, thanks!
Nails.
Snails?
Two: Put your junk in that chest.
...and that's the way you do it!
Are those his regular nipples?
Nah, those are the special ones.
That looks great. Looks like a great project and looks like you learned a lot. It seems like one of those projects where you take the long way, make a lot of mistakes that someone who knew better could easily do in a hour, but in the end its worth it because it turned out great and you learned a lot.
I wasn't planning on it, but if you're serious, PM me. I'd need to calculate the total cost of parts and time, but I could make another.
I made one in 15 minutes with a puck light from Home Depot (check my post history from Halloween last year). It was annoying. It was shitty but did the job. I would also gladly pay for you to make a proper one for me. Can you PM me when you calculate a price?
You did a lot of work and the final product looks great. Well done! Love the idea of the 150 ohm resistor.
Much better than the half-assed solution I put together for a Halloween costume several years ago. I had one of those push lights, and hung it from a loop around my neck, then put it under a button-down shirt, so I kinda looked like Tony Stark in his normal attire (if he really let himself go), so you could see it glowing under his shirt.
It was a terrible costume, but in my defense I was also extremely lazy.
Excellent job. You should look up Ben Heck on YouTube, he built a simple reflow oven as well as tested different home ways of doing PCB etching. Apparently using a laser printer to print the pattern and then transfer worked a little better than the sharpie. But I can't argue with your final results. It looks like it came it great. Good job.
This doesn't have to be done with an oven, or even reflow at all. You can reflow with a heat gun or traditionally solder with a very pointy iron. Having PCBs manufactured professionally is easy and cheap if you don't have time constraints.
That's another change I'd make. Since doing this I learned what you just said. Since then I designed a PCB for work and sent it off to OCPark. It was $27 for three professional two-sided PCBs and only took like two weeks. That's amazing.
.
Tony Stank
Do you also work as an autocorrect programmer?
Winter is Coming, death to the Great Satan!
(btw it happens to me all the time as well. The eyes glide over a bunch of stuff weirdly.)
Dang, you went through a lot of work for this, and it turned out well. If lots of people want something like this, I could lay out a circuit board for it instead.
You should. I learned a lot midway through, and one of the things I learned was that etching the PCB was a waste of time. I tried laying out a circuit diagram in 123D Circuits, but I didn't like that I had to do it all at angles. If you have the know how to make a good one I would love to see it.
I'm happy that you included the failures. Saves somebody else from trying wire glue.
I made one too , out of... scraps.
Given that you're handy enough to make this you can learn to solder components that size. I can solder down to 0805 pretty easily, and the techs I've worked with over the years can get down to 0201 (like the size of a black pepper flake) because they do it as a job. A lot of it comes down to having the right tools - a fine enough solder tip and solder that is thin enough.
Just a small point OP, your "Low Power Mode" won't actually save any power. All the resister is doing is taking power away from the LEDs, it will still consume the same amount of power. Cool project though!
Hah! Oh man, that's funny. Thank you for letting me know.
Is there a way to restrict the output somehow to reduce the power consumption?
You could split your power supply and put a switch in between them to either bypass or use one of the power supplies. Otherwise, there are various more sophisticated power supply components you can use to regulate (and limit) power.
Okay thanks, that makes sense.
Your kitchen is so dirty.
Sorry, I had to. Please clean the counter.
I work at Lutron in PA. I saw a small blue Lutron screwdriver in your work bench :)
Heh, my SO used to work there.
I do not know what you make, but your screwdrivers are fantastic.
They're an electrical equipment manufacturer. They make outlets, switches, dimmers, that sort of stuff.
Isn't he the security guard at the Captain America museum?
That is awesome.
Can it run a fan?
I actually did try to engrave the locations, but the engraving was too faint and distracting, so I used a blank one.
The rings are sanded a bit to diffuse light. I could sand them more, but I liked how it looked so I stopped.
I'll never understand why people etch their own PCBs anymore. It's SO CHEAP to just go to an OSH or ExpressPCB type place and get a few boards for practically nothing.
I actually discovered that like 2 weeks ago, but I wanted it done in time for the Civil War premier. I'm pretty sure this is the first and last time I'll etch a PCB.
the fuck are you doing with your life, man
Work of love and dedication. Well done.
good shit bro
Step 1: build arc reactor
Step 2: build robot suit
So when are you going to complete step 2? This is awesome
this looks good enough to be a prop in the actual movie! You probably did a better job then the original one, cuz i know most of it was just CGI.
In medicine, a prosthesis (plural: prostheses; from Ancient Greek prósthesis, "addition, application, attachment") is an artificial device that replaces a missing body part.
A prosthesis is really any artificial body part, not necessarily replacing a missing body part. Breast implants are prosthesis. The arc reactor powers an electromagnet that prevents metal shrapnel from reaching Tony's heart. Its a prosthesis in a similar way as a pacemarker.
What we can all agree on is that OP should have committed to the costume and implanted this in his chest.
A prosthesis is really any artificial body part, not necessarily replacing a missing body part
Nope, that's not the definition. Is a helmet a prosthetic skull?
Don't be surprised if a shadowy, government agent guy shows up at your door.
You have skills to pay the bills.
I hope so. I'm actually trying to learn a lot of this stuff because I think that it will help me advance at work.
It was cool to see a /r/DIY post that was "I barely have a clue how to do this, so I'm going to show you how I learned" more than "I do this for a living, this is an abbreviated process of how a pro does it."
One thing I love about subs like /r/woodworking is the occasional "boy, I ballsed this up pretty hard, check it out" post. Of course, you'd get ripped to shreds for something like that on /r/DIY, but it's nice to see the process, success or otherwise.
So move out of your parents basement.
That reminds me… http://i.imgur.com/5zBQQLB.jpg
It looks great tech stuff
Fantastic! Thank you for taking the time do document and share with us
Did anybody else have the toy one that was like a magnet thing that one end went inside your shirt and the other side was outside your shirt
Looks like a poker chip.
I really enjoyed reading your DIY, you went through every step and failure and how you went on to your next step after your failure. Nice job!
The PCB is a bit overkill.
My only suggestion is use a dab of epoxy to glue the magnets down. It's a little more permanent, but replacing the magnets is something I imagine you aren't going to be needing to do anyone soon.
That's really cool. I made one of these about a year ago, but it's definitely not wearable, unless you have a crater in your chest like Tony. It would be awesome to make a slim version.
Would you be willing to make one and sell one? I would buy it from you, or if you could make another.
That's awesome. What's it made of?
Acrylic mostly
So, how much were you wearing this?
He actually built it for me, but more or less daily.
I should really think about doing a iron man cosplay i got the perfect hole in my Chest to put the reactor
Dont get me wrong, yours is much cooler, but i bought this for like £3 http://iconosquare.com/p/1152244894627928960_2268585901
He could use it now lol
Not into LARP but I want it. Would make a cool night light thingy.
ugh. I hate how expensive cosplay is- I'm working on one right now and I have to buy around 12 yards of fabric for a goddamn Lolita-Style skirt.
Are you on Rpf?
I'm not, but my fiancee is the one I made this for, and she is: u/ialbatross.
Doubles as a contraceptive
I know I shouldn't respond, but I can't help it.
It's not for me. It's for my fiancee, who wore the previous one to a con and ended up taking two skanks out for drinks.
Hey, show some respect for my skanks.
Could somebody explain cosplay to me? Is is that you're just bored and at the right age that there is nothing better to do, I guess? Serious question.
If you can explain why you do anything at all that goes beyond basic survival, I'm pretty sure you can answer this question yourself.
Sure, I think that's a very legit question.
I used to look down on the Harry Potter club in college. They held feasts in character and played Quiddich on fields. I thought it seemed lame and dumb and extremely nerdy.
Years later, after moving to LA I made friends who do this kind of thing, and discovered that it's simpler than it seems. You just never really outgrow playing pretend, and it's a ton of fun if you're not too self-conscious to enjoy it. One of my first realizations of this was at Decom. It's a one night festival styled after Burning Man, and I was amazed at how a bunch of people who loved some fandom -- steam punk, mad max, etc -- could get together and just make it real. You could go to a bar and everyone was living out the same fantasy. One of my dreams is to go to Mars. That isn't going to happen, so I can either live in the real world, or I can pretend, and when you get others to do it with you it becomes immersive and scratches an itch that is otherwise impossible to fulfill.
In LA at least, this kind of thing seems common. My gf (u/ialbatross) and I went to a convention in Las Vegas this year and she wore the arc reactor all weekend. On our last night, she wandered into the Hard Rock Casino bar smoking a cigar. Another patron warned her that they'd make her put it out, since they'd just made his friend do so. The bartender didn't, and the guy accused her of receiving a pass for being a woman. While he was trying to argue with her, the bartender returned with her drink, collected payment, shook her hand and said, "Thank you Mr. Stark" and went back to others' drinks as though this kind of thing was common when you work the bar in Vegas.
So the short version is, dressing up and playing pretend is incredibly fun regardless of age, if you're confident enough to do it without shame.
Even though it wasn't built in a cave, I approve of this project.
Can we get any shots of your cave, scrap parts, and a selfie to confirm you're not Tony Stark. Great work.
Did you build it in a cave, from a box of scraps?